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#4 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Enthusiast
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Ah Ha- now I get it...
The top down sketch, the pipe that comes out of the pump and back into the large barrel of the reactor is the oine that is up against the side, right... What type of fittings did you use to create that side output for your pump at the bottom of the reactor? One more question- what drives the water from your filter into the top of the reactor? Do you have a canister? or a pump from a sump? and do you know the GPH of that? |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Wannabe Guru
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Typically the Reactor and UV are run on the return from the canister as they push better than pull (not to get too technical
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Greater Seattle Aquarium Society Member (GSAS.org)
General Auction April 18th 2009!!! Community 60 gal T8 +CO2 +sump. Clown Barbs 75 gal T8 +sump Goodeidae project 20Long PC |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Guru
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If your tank is larger, the lag time between the respone time for the solnoid will always have higher CO2 for the return water than what is in the tank itself.
The plants use up the CO2 and then you have CO2 removed some from over flow. Rather than having the pH probve on the return line, having in the tank where the CO2 would be the lowest would be a better loctation. Where you have it now, the CO2 will be the highest. Response time will higher if you move more water through the tank,have better circulation patterns/mixing in the tank. The other thing you can do to improve the reactor, feed then CO2 into the lower intake side of the pump loop, rather than after the pump. This will improve the dissolving power and capacity for larger tanks/systems. You'd basically drill into the side of PCV near the bottom adjacent to the pump inlet. Add a piece of airline to feed the CO2 into the suction side of the pump inside the main PVC tube. You have backpressure since the input form CO2 is on a pressurized pipe of smaller diameter. So if the gas CO2 tank runs out, it'll backflow easily. Your solenoid will also not close using a pH controller because the controller will "think" you need more CO2 gas and will leave the solenoid "open". On the lower pressure suction, the suction will pull the gas out of the tube and there's is less backpressure inside the larger diameter tube as well. And it's more efficient location to start dissolving the CO2. This is how my CO2 reactors are set up, I use a sump so it's not a closed loop, but it's the same design. Making your own CO2 reactor is not rocket science, and yes, I've seen a number of CO2 reactor knock off designs of mind over the years. The way to combat those companies from stealing your design: tell everyone on the web how to DIY build your own for peanuts, so if you can make one for 2-10$, why pay 50-80$? Regards, Tom Barr
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www.BarrReport.com >(///)> The monthly Aquatic Plant Horticulture journal
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Banned
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Quote:
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
55G, Eheim Ecco 2236, Current USA 2x 65W Hygro (stricta) Java Fern, Dwarf Hairgrass, Red Wendtii, Corckscrew Val, Rangeri Sword, Dwarf Chain Sword, Narrow Leaf Chain Sword 3 Otocinclus, 1 Bulldog Pleco, 7 New Guinea Rainbowfish, 3 Cherry Barb, 6 Zebra Danio's, 2 Yoyo Loaches, 4 Black Khulii Loaches, 2 GBR, 10+ Ghost Shrimp. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Guru
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CO2 experience is learned over time.
It's 90% of the issues for folks in the hobby, alway check it prior to anything else. Then check it again and again. Regards, Tom Barr
__________________
www.BarrReport.com >(///)> The monthly Aquatic Plant Horticulture journal
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Planted Tank Enthusiast
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#14 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Infatuated
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Cool design. I'd be interested in building off this design as well. I just might try to simplify, and feel free to correct me (and please do) if I'm taking a wrong turn anywhere.
It seems that the most effective part of the design is creating the vortex, which keeps bubbles in the middle of the swirl and gives them high velocities and turbulence to help with dissolution. This particular component could simply be created by drilling the reactor's inlet (the outlet from XP3) a bit off center and at an angle. The second pump/return line isn't REQUIRED to create the vortex. So what's the point behind the second loop with the seperate pump. If it's for dealing with the dreaded air buildup in the top of the reactor, then I just don't understand why the pump is needed. If the second loop was simply closed, with no pump, wouldn't the pressure difference alone push water from the bottom of the reactor back up to the top....displacing the gas? Am I totally insane? My goal here is to dissolve co2, but I'd rather not set up any more pumps I've been down that road and I'd rather work with the pump (xp3Thanks for the info already! Keep it comin'
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-Ernie
29 Gallon Tank: 110W PC Lights, Milwaukee MA957 CO2, Fluorite/Sand Substrate, Checked into E.I. Rehab MY RENA FILSTAR XP3 PIMPS ME! (#67) |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Planted Member
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Anyone knows appropriate diameter to length ratio in order to get nice vortex? I am in the process of obtaining clear pvc pipe and other materials to build this reactor. 3" ID pipe should be enough I think, about 10" long or so.
I'll post full list of materials and costs later.
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29g eco, DIY up to 81W PC (55W used), Rena Filstar XP2 Filter
Corkscrew Vals, 2 angels, 4 corydoras aeneus, Ramshorn snails, MTS 5 gal RCS tank with sand bottom, java moss, small internal filter, MTS, Ramshorn snails. |
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