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Old 06-25-2006, 10:02 PM   #16 (permalink)
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The only thing I don't like about this... the solution degrades somewhat over time. I let it run for two weeks before cleaning and refilling, and it isn't too bad.

Ppl have suggested HCl (hydrochloric acid) to prevent that, maybe worth a try.

For dosing of more concentrated liquids, have a look at what I just posted here: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/di...uid-doser.html

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Old 06-25-2006, 10:07 PM   #17 (permalink)
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by degrades do you mean grows stuff or gets weaker. I saw that other post, it just dosent seem as reliable to me. I enjoy or DIY ideas for sure so keep it up!
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Old 06-25-2006, 10:13 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I found that the micro solution grows stuff, and the macro solution starts to smell like an old dishwashing sponge. Not sure if the micro solution gets weaker over time... I keep it dark, but there is a possibility that it breaks down slowly.
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Old 06-25-2006, 10:57 PM   #19 (permalink)
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A long time ago (in a galaxy far, far away ,) when I was messing around with papier mache, one recipe I ran across said to add a few drops of wintergreen oil to the paper mash to keep the mixture from molding. Found some at a pharmacy, did so, and it did indeed keep it fresh.

The problem is I don't know what wintergreen oil would do to an aquarium.

At least the fish would have fresh breath . . .
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Old 06-25-2006, 11:13 PM   #20 (permalink)
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How about Melafix? Melaleuca (Tea tree) oil is supposed to be anti-fungal and anti-bacterial. Not sure what it does (if anything) to the fertilizers.

I'll try if a few drops show any effect.
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Old 06-25-2006, 11:20 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasserpest
How about Melafix? Melaleuca (Tea tree) oil is supposed to be anti-fungal and anti-bacterial. Not sure what it does (if anything) to the fertilizers.

I'll try if a few drops show any effect.
Worth a shot. Although my inclination is "it can't be that easy!" I did make one of these auto-dosers today though! Cool! I don't have it calibrated exactly, I ran out of patience to see how much liquid the little 606 pump would move in two minutes (I'm using a 1 gallon joint compound bucket temporarily for the reservoir.) I think a taller, narrower container would be a bit better. It'll do for the time-being. This "ain't rocket science!"

Hubby's out adjusting his valves on his motorcycle . I had to have *some*thing to do today !
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Old 06-25-2006, 11:27 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoseHawke
I ran out of patience to see how much liquid the little 606 pump would move in two minutes
LOL, I spent hours patiently looking at how slowly the level goes down. Fun.
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Old 07-28-2006, 07:54 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I am currently testing a similar design. For my pump I bought a Tom Aqua Lifter AW-20 vacuum pump. It looks like a small air pump with two connectors that are labeled in and out. It is not submersible. It is rated at 3.5gallons/hour and lifts fluid up to 30". It only cost $9.99 at Big Als Online. For my reservoir, I'm using an old plastic gallon jug. I drilled a hole in the cap and stuck a piece of rigid air line tubing through it to reach the bottom. I put a couple additional tiny holes in the cap to allow air to enter as the fluid leaves the bottle.

I set the bottle on the bottom of my stand next to my 20gal High sump tank. I set the pump on top of the sump tank. I used flexible airline tubing to connect the rigid tubing to the pumps input. I connected another piece of flexible airline tubing between the pumps output and a hole drilled in my sumps lid.

I used a stopwatch to measure the amount of time it took to fill a 250mL measureing cup. With the reservoir full it took about 4.75 minutes, and with the reservoir near empty it took about 3.25 minutes. I averaged these times and calculated that it was dosing at an average rate of about 64mL per minute. I figure if I set a timer to turn it on for 3minutes per day it will dose almost 200mL per day, and that 3 Liters of fluid in my reservoir should last just over 2 weeks. The variation results in an error of about 20% in dosing, meaning that it will dose about 20% more than the average the first few days and about 20% less than average the last few days. I figure that is consistant enough for my needs.

Now only time will tell how well this system will perform in the long run.
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Old 07-29-2006, 01:07 PM   #24 (permalink)
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There is another thread for this sort of dosing, check this out! So many ways...
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Old 09-08-2006, 10:21 AM   #25 (permalink)
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My pump insists on emptying my container (1.5L) in 4.20 minutes.

Would it be a bad idea to restrict the pump further than it already is? it's an Eheim pump of some sort.
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Old 09-08-2006, 01:35 PM   #26 (permalink)
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You can restrict the outflow of a water pump with a valve of some kind, I use ball valves on my sump return pumps. The pump reacts to the restriction the same way it would react to increased head. Never restrict the intake side of a water pump.
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Old 09-08-2006, 04:27 PM   #27 (permalink)
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decrease the diameter of tubing as well
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Old 09-08-2006, 06:13 PM   #28 (permalink)
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I modify those black plastic drip irrigation connectors to adjust the squirt... You can heat them up over your stove a little, pinch them closed, and then with an appropriately sized needle, create a tiny hole to adjust the flow.

Placing the container on the floor instead of at the same level as the tank will create some head and reduce the throughput.

Chosing a weaker pump would be a good solution too.
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Old 09-08-2006, 06:18 PM   #29 (permalink)
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On another note, earlier I commented on the degradation of the solution. Still working on it, but it seems like leaving the KH2PO4 off, just mixing KNO3 and K2SO4, seems to help.

I am planning to inject P via the "Fluidoser" (timer + syringe) and keep this solution dosing for 4 weeks.
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Old 09-08-2006, 07:37 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I am getting the same thing wasserpest, after 17 days, I get a slimy coat on the tubing and sides. Last time it had a very light pink tint to the tubing? Ill try what you suggest. I miss dosing things everyday!
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