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Old 04-02-2006, 05:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
Wasserpest
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Default Acrylic Filter Overflows (no lilies!)

Inspired by Curares excellent idea, I started making my own non-lily pipes.

Got the material from Tap Plastics, a rubber fuel hose from the local hardware store, and some undisturbed time with my gas stove.



Turned out pretty decent (I washed them before taking the picture, that's why they don't look that clear). The trick is to find the right softness where you can bow it without the radius getting flattened (which makes it especially hard to remove the fuel hose!)

Now that I replaced both XP3 in/outlets and made them invisible, the heater cable looks awful. I guess it's time to look at a Hydor...

This is a very recommended tweak. Material cost for the four pipes (two pairs) about $20, with a little bit left over. Not too bad, compared to what glass pipes cost.
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Old 04-03-2006, 06:36 PM   #2 (permalink)
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What is the inside and outside diameters of those tubes? I called around and can get 5/8 O.D. (3/8 I.D.) for $18 for 6'. I am really thinking of making 2 sets for my tanks seeing how nice these look.. but am not too sure if the 3/8" ID is too small?
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Old 04-03-2006, 08:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I got 3/4 OD which fits the 5/8 hoses of my Filstars perfectly (after a short bath in almost boiling water):



(inset is how it looked before)

Big difference...
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Old 04-03-2006, 08:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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How do you prime it now? Heheh.

Oh, and do you have suction cups/clips somewhere in the setup?
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Old 04-03-2006, 08:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Easy. Both priming and emptying. It's a secret, but I will share it

Take a vinyl air hose, and shove it up all the way where the bend starts. Then carefully suck out all the air, until <gag> the first splash of water hits your taste buds. Then pinch the hose and pull it out. Bingo!

(the outlet doesn't need to be primed, doh!)

To empty it (so you can replace the dirty acrylic non-lily pipe with a brand new one) you do the same, but blow instead of suck.
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Old 04-03-2006, 08:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Nope, no suction cups. Never quite understood why you'd need them. It's not like someone is going to lift them accidently out of the tank, or push them around.
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Old 04-03-2006, 09:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasserpest
Easy. Both priming and emptying. It's a secret, but I will share it

Take a vinyl air hose, and shove it up all the way where the bend starts. Then carefully suck out all the air, until <gag> the first splash of water hits your taste buds. Then pinch the hose and pull it out. Bingo!

(the outlet doesn't need to be primed, doh!)

To empty it (so you can replace the dirty acrylic non-lily pipe with a brand new one) you do the same, but blow instead of suck.
Why suck the air out just drill a hole in the top bend and put in a checkvalve hook a airline tube to the airator input on a power head and you will never lose prime . All the overflow boxes on my reeftanks come with this option. (no secret)
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Old 04-03-2006, 10:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Well, why make it simple when you can do it really complicated? You are absolutely right!

(I only have to prime once every two years when the hoses need a good cleaning. Therefore, I suck!).
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Old 04-04-2006, 12:16 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Wasser, I thought about this before exploring my own lily-pipe excursion. I was worried that the clear, acrylic pipes would whiten over time (within a few months). I look forward to future updates.
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Old 04-04-2006, 01:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Nice work WP!!!!


Well done!

I've got a fluval 304 that needs some funky downpipes now too. BUt that's gonna be fun, 3/4" hehe!

Also, I've been experimenting with ways of cleaning them as they do fill up with gunk.

Time for another DIY epsiode eh!
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:18 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unirdna
Wasser, I thought about this before exploring my own lily-pipe excursion. I was worried that the clear, acrylic pipes would whiten over time (within a few months). I look forward to future updates.
I will report back in 6 months or so... It's possible they will do something weird, like turn white, or develop little cracks, or something. However, tanks are built out of acrylic, and it doesn't to such things. So we shall see...
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Old 04-04-2006, 04:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curare
Nice work WP!!!!


Well done!

I've got a fluval 304 that needs some funky downpipes now too. BUt that's gonna be fun, 3/4" hehe!

Also, I've been experimenting with ways of cleaning them as they do fill up with gunk.

Time for another DIY epsiode eh!
THANK YOU oh master of all acrylic filter pipes!

Let us know what you find out about cleaning them. Knowing me, I am probably too lazy to take them apart, and just let them gunk up for the natural looks...

I am looking at my AquaClear inlet... there must be a good way to convert that grey thing to a glass clear acrylic pipe!!!
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Old 04-04-2006, 05:14 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Curare
I've been experimenting with ways of cleaning them as they do fill up with gunk.
Hey guys. Great work blazing new trails (forgot to mention that in my first post).

I found a way to clean my lily pipes (post #29), and thought you might be interested. This, because the brush I use isn't made of metal. The very tip is, actually, but the long handle is made of soft, flexible plastic. I thought this would be worth noting, since scratching the acrylic is an obvious worry. I bought two different size brushes, the 7/8" and the 1". Strangely enough, they have very different bristles. The 7/8" is much stiffer. The 1" is considerably softer. For your purposes, I would recommend the 1" (if you were interested). If you'd like better photos than the ones on the website, I could snap a few shots.

http://www.justmanbrush.com/catalog/...electCatalog=2
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Old 04-04-2006, 07:31 AM   #14 (permalink)
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