Wasserpests cheap auto water change

[Naja002]

I think Wasserpest interpreted your intent the same way I did: 1x sprinkler for incoming water, 1x sprinkler valve for drain.

With your recent explanation, you shouldn't have any problems. Sprinkler valves need a minimum pressure to "crack" open the diaphram--otherwise they just won't open and let the water flow. The house water supply has enough pressure, so using a sprinkler valve for the incoming water supply is fine and should work without a problem.

The problem using a SV on the drain portion is creating enough pressure to "crack" open the valve/diaphram. BUT you are planning on a semi-auto system with a ball-valve drain setup.

What You are planning will work.

Using a SV on the drain portion--generally--won't....

HTH

[PRESTON4479]

Ok, I understand. That is exactly what I am planning to do.

I did not know the sprinkler valve requires pressure. I am glad you told me that because it had crossed my mind to put one on the drain side also. But decided to just go with the semi-auto set up for now.

Sorry about the misunderstanding.

Brian

[Naja002]

NP, that's what we are here for......

You can eliminate the ball valve between the drain and incoming water and just use the one on the drain line. It won't hurt anything to have and use both, but there really is no benefit to the one.

Once You open the drain ball valve the water is going to flow that way. what, if any, water that goes up toward the tank is irrelevant. Having the 2nd ball valve may decrease your drain time by a few seconds, but that's it. Of course, that is dependent upon tubing size used, etc.

Since You are doing the drain portion manually, which means you will have to be around and be available to close the ball valve, etc--you will be much happier running a 1/2"ID drain line than anything smaller. Took 7mins for me on my 55g to drain 50%.

You'll probably also want a loud countdown timer. Its easy to walk away and forget that the tank is draining. Well, it is for feeble minded folks like me anyway.....

HTH

[PRESTON4479]

Originally Posted by Naja002

Since You are doing the drain portion manually, which means you will have to be around and be available to close the ball valve, etc--you will be much happier running a 1/2"ID drain line than anything smaller. Took 7mins for me on my 55g to drain 50%.

HTH

I haven't decided yet but I was leaning towards a 5/8" drain line. Thanks again for the advice. Glad to know that what I am planning to do will work and has already been tested.

What would we do without this forum and its members

A few more questions. What do you think about putting a hydor inline heater on the fill side? Would this even make a difference? Is your fill line hooked to the cold water line or the hot water line?

Brian

[Naja002]

Originally Posted by PRESTON4479

I haven't decided yet but I was leaning towards a 5/8" drain line. Thanks again for the advice. Glad to know that what I am planning to do will work and has already been tested.

5/8" is even better imo....

Originally Posted by PRESTON4479

What would we do without this forum and its members

I don't know about anybody else, but I would have just kept going around in circles, bouncing off the walls like I had been doing for +30yrs.....

Originally Posted by PRESTON4479

A few more questions. What do you think about putting a hydor inline heater on the fill side? Would this even make a difference?

I've asked this basic question before and honestly--I don't see the point. If you are going to add an inline heater just put it on the canister line abouve the drain and fill lines. That way it heats the tank generally, and has whatever positive effect on the incoming water. If you actually sit down and think about it--its all going to come out in the wash......

Originally Posted by PRESTON4479

Is your fill line hooked to the cold water line or the hot water line?

Initially, it was on the cold only. Now its tapped into both, but since I am using a charcoal filter setup for dechlor (low flow= ~10gph) its mostly still just cold water. I could tweak it around and all. I could even incorporate gate valves and get it set pretty good. But for the stuff I'm doing--it really isn't important....

[PRESTON4479]

Originally Posted by Naja002

Initially, it was on the cold only. Now its tapped into both, but since I am using a charcoal filter setup for dechlor (low flow= ~10gph) its mostly still just cold water. I could tweak it around and all. I could even incorporate gate valves and get it set pretty good. But for the stuff I'm doing--it really isn't important....

So do you think it will be alright if I just use the cold water line?

[Wasserpest]

If you use one of those self-piercing dealios, then you can adjust the rate with which the water refills the tank. I have mine set very low, and even in Winter there is no big temperature drop. It takes maybe 3 hours to drain and fill (drain fast and fill slow) but I don't see any point in trying to set speed records. When it is drained, I like to do the weekly front glass cleaning, plant pruning, or go make a coffee or do something else... no need to supervise anyway.


I would still suggest you look into a solenoid for the drain side. They aren't that much, and it would be so much better if you don't have to sit there and remember when to close the drain valve. You won't even have to be there at all... just use a timer to do automatic water changes once, twice or x times a week.

Mine is set up a bit different as I drain the water into my low tech tank, that's why I can't really do it that way.

[Wasserpest]

Besides the 100gal tank, I have a 10gal and a 36gal tank in my little home office. After connecting the 100gal tank to the tap water, I figured I could do the same for the other tanks.

Finally got around to it. Added an icemaker splicer kit (basically a brass compression T), and a shutoff compression valve to turn the water on & off.

After that I have a little 3 way valve where I can direct the water to either (10gal or 36gal) tank or shut it off. Vinyl hoses transport the water to its destination.

Makes water changes easier... I just hang my overflow contraption into the tank, turn on the tap water, and the change water drains into a bucket. Easy enough for smaller tanks.