Wasserpests cheap auto water change

[Naja002]

Glad to hear its working.....

If You do the math: On daily water changes-You need to change considerably more water per day than the equivalent per week.

In other words, on a 100gal. tank, if You change out 50% (50gal) then You have done a 50% water change. But if You turn right around and change out another 50% (50gal)--You've only changed out 75% of the original water in the tank.....If You are dosing EI--then You need to determine how many gals per day will equal "50%/Wk". And its not as simple as 50gals on a 100 gal tank.

That's just one of the reasons that I am going to go with 1-2 water changes per wk, as opposed to 7.

Have You determined the margin of error for the float valve...?

[Wasserpest]

You are right with the water changes, but this is the fun part, figuring out how to do it in detail. Right now I can do it either way, daily little bits, or weekly 50... I'll see how it goes.

With mechanical devices, reliability is an issue. I am concerned about that. I have very hard water, and over (little) time, there will be calcium deposits on the float valve, which might keep it from closing completely

After one night, the tank level is PERFECT. I'll need to monitor if, over time, the valve gives a little and the water level rises.

Next time I have $100 laying around somewhere, I might look into turning this all electronic, like what we checked out earlier....

[jimjim]

Wasserpest, you is a genyus. I recently gave my nice new shiny oak floor a real good wash ;-( when I acidentaly left the filler valve from the RO machine on. My wife was a little put out when she woke up in the morning to find water all over the floor. When I read your thread I figured it would save my marriage and I dont have to sleep with one eye open anymore. See you've saved my life and my marriage!!! 8-)..... I just got my float valve from F&S and hooked it up to the RO machine, works like a charm!...Thanks, Jim

[Wasserpest]

Originally Posted by jimjim

you is a genyus.

I'll take this as a complyment! Thanks!

<<WP out saving more marriages>>

[Wasserpest]

I am having trouble with the mechanical float valve. It doesn't seem to completely shut the water off, which makes it dangerous to use...

So I decided to do the next step and use a float switch connected to a sprinkler valve instead, like described by toofazt! Unfortunately I am having problems locating a suitable 24V transformer.

Planning to not attach the switch inside the tank, but have a separate container with the switch connected to the tank via vinyl hose. To prevent light getting blocked out by the switch. Still working out the details...

Is it safe to use brass connectors in our tanks? Searching didn't give me good answers, except that brass has copper and copper is bad for shrimps. But does brass leach copper? And the fact that water lines are made out of copper, how do shrimps survive this?

[daFrimpster]

I am using a 24volt relay and transformer from a furnace for my reef auto top off setup. I have been told 24v is the standard in furnace control circuitry.

[Naja002]

Is it safe to use brass connectors in our tanks? Searching didn't give me good answers, except that brass has copper and copper is bad for shrimps. But does brass leach copper? And the fact that water lines are made out of copper, how do shrimps survive this?

From everything that I have read on these boards and my limited experience--Yes, brass is safe. The only thing I seem to have problems with is Clams--and I kill them with dosing--Go Figure....

I'm assuming that Your tank is not drilled--so make sure You setup a good, reliable over-flow...

Also, Sprinkler valve controllers are 24v--they are made to work with the sprinkler valve You bought, and by running 2 wires--You can use it for more than one setup....They should have them were You bought the sprinkler vavle, but they will probably run You +$25.

[Wasserpest]

Seems like HD usually has 24V transformers in the sprinkler isle... they were out though. I checked a couple of hardware stores and only Ratshack had something close (30V though) but I didn't want to spend $24 when I can get something for half that.

Originally Posted by Naja002

I'm assuming that Your tank is not drilled--so make sure You setup a good, reliable over-flow...

Also, Sprinkler valve controllers are 24v--they are made to work with the sprinkler valve You bought, and by running 2 wires--You can use it for more than one setup....They should have them were You bought the sprinkler vavle, but they will probably run You +$25.

I have no experience with overflows, so I would monitor this for a couple of weeks to see if air starts to break the syphon.

The controller is a good idea too... maybe I can tweak it somehow to control the drainage side, while the refill is controlled by the switch... always something to improve.

[Wasserpest]

Yesterday I got lucky, the 24V transformers were found on the clearance table. I hooked it all up, and only need to connect it to the XP3 outflow. I'll show some pics of the various components later.

This is how it's supposed to work:

I am collecting "used tank water" for watering the yard. If I would just drain it things might be easier, but here is what I want to do: during the week, I use up the water in my "reservoir". There is a mechanical float valve, and a ball valve. On water change day, I open the ball valve, and the tank water drains into the reservoir until the float valve shuts it off.

As soon as the water level drops by about an inch, the refill starts to kick in, powered by a sprinkler valve which is connected to the float switch in the tank. Once its done draining and refilling the float switch turns off the valve and things are quiet again.

So it is all inline plumbed except for the float switch, which after all I positioned inside the tank instead of in another container with overflow. Keeping it simpler. There are only 2 wires going over the tank rim, so no big deal.

[exmt]

Looks good Wasserpest. Now is that thing labeled "reservoir" for new water or used water?

And that canister filter only has one tube going into it... I would assume that is the output...

[Wasserpest]

Yep, reservoir is "used water", to be used for watering the yard. Fresh water coming right out of the tap. I know it seems kinda backwards and maybe difficult, but I can't see myself sending the nutritious tank water down the drain.

Canister filter outlet, you are correct. That way it is under (gentle) pressure which powers the drainage.

Yesterday I glued and pushed it all together, leak-free the first time, yeah!

One thing I am wondering is how quickly I should refill it. The quicker, the more likely it is still draining, and the float switch might turn off the refill, but then a little more is still draining, but not enough to trigger the float switch. If I refill slower, so it is done draining completely before it fills up again, the sprinkler valve will be "on" for extended periods (2-3 hours) and I am not sure if this is going to be a problem, since they are "usually" running only maybe 10 or 20 minutes. The solenoid pulls about 3 Watts, so that's not too bad.

[Naja002]

You could incoporate a simple light switch into the circuit with the fill float switch. In short, when the light switch is turned-off(by You): The Float switch doesn't work--allowing the drain to complete. Then flick the light switch--float switch works, opening valve and closing it when fill is complete. You could leave the light switch "On" accept when specifically doing a water change.

Would probably cost $3-4 with box and cover. Not including Shipping, Time, Gas, Wear-n-Tear, Tax, Tag, Title, Etc.....

2 wires--no big deal.

[Wasserpest]

Originally Posted by Naja002

Would probably cost $3-4 with box and cover. Not including Shipping, Time, Gas, Wear-n-Tear, Tax, Tag, Title, Etc.....

2 wires--no big deal.

You sound like a contractor, hehe... still have a couple of switches laying around, so that shouldn't be a problem. Do you think having the valve powered for 2 or 3 hours in a row (once per week) would be bad for it or wear it out prematurely?

So here is a little cost summary for the switched water change:

Float switch from WM - $17
24 V transformer from HD (Clearance) - $10
Irrigation valve - $11

Total of $38. About twice as much as the mechanical float valve, but much cleaner solution.

[Naja002]

Do you think having the valve powered for 2 or 3 hours in a row (once per week) would be bad for it or wear it out prematurely?

Honestly, I don't know. Call a sprinkler supply company in your area and ask them. Look under Irrigation in the yellow pages.

f I refill slower, so it is done draining completely before it fills up again, the sprinkler valve will be "on" for extended periods (2-3 hours)

Not sure I understand, but once you add a light switch, your system will become Drain and then refill. So that should cut the refill time down some--I assume....

[Wasserpest]

Think I got it licked now...

Here is the float switch, which closes a circuit when the water level is down about 1.5 inches, and interrupts the circuit when the tank is full:



This is the sprinkler valve, connected to the T that goes inline on the canister outflow:



And here is the whole thing connected:



Just tried it out, works great. During the week, I use water from the "reservoir". The drainage from the tank is connected via a ball valve to a mechanical float valve. To do a water change, I just open the ball valve, water drains until the float valve stops it, and then refills, controlled by the float switch. I can do better things while this is going on. Then (even the next day) I close the ball valve so removing water from the reservoir will not cause the tank to drain.

The refill is slow enough for the tank to finish draining before the float switch turns off.

If you would just drain the old water, you could add a second valve for the drainage side, and either via timer, or irrigation computer, make the whole deal fully automatic.

For me, turning the ball valve is just as easy.