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Old 04-08-2008, 07:52 AM   #76 (permalink)
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Wendle,

Maybe I missed it, but do I apply the silicone on the front, back and bottom of sides?
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Old 06-23-2008, 07:09 AM   #77 (permalink)
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Wendle,

Maybe I missed it, but do I apply the silicone on the front, back and bottom of sides?
Not sure if I am reading your question correctly, but if it is the question I think it is this is the best way to describe it;
You want a bead along the bottom of the inside face of the sides (calling them ends is maybe a little less confusing?)
You then want a bead along the bottom and both sides of the inside face of the front and back.
All beads should be applied to a "face" not an "edge".

I hope that makes sense, I am not much of a wordsmith.

Seeing as this thread seems to have remained a popular read, if I get time I would like to assemble a small tank and accompany it with a plethora of step-by-step photos.
I have a couple of tanks to build for people once I finish the car I am building, one of these tanks is a plain and simple 4' x 2' x 2'. That is probably a good candidate to photograph.
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Old 06-23-2008, 11:03 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Seeing as this thread seems to have remained a popular read, if I get time I would like to assemble a small tank and accompany it with a plethora of step-by-step photos.
That would be killer Wendle! If you get the chance, please do!
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Old 10-14-2008, 12:49 AM   #79 (permalink)
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Assembly time
If you allow a silicone bead that goes between two pieces of glass to “skin over”, or form a slight film on its surface before you press the glass together, you should prepare for that seam to fail under pressure. Generally that means that you MUST press the glass in place within a few minutes of laying down the silicone bead. IMO 2 minutes is safe for the professional grade silicons I reccomended earlier, 5 minutes for commercial grades. Any longer and you are accepting an element of risk.
This sounds scary... so you have to really hurry (<2 minutes for RTV108) to get the silicone applied and the glass panes attached to each other.
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Old 10-14-2008, 12:53 AM   #80 (permalink)
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That's why you need to practice on a little (cheap) tank first. And then practice EVERY SINGLE motion you are planning to make before you do it. And then, since you are only doing one pane at a time, that limit is not so bad.
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Old 10-15-2008, 12:16 AM   #81 (permalink)
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I hope 2 minutes is a bit on the extreme side. Working on a plywood tank, where the front glass needs to be glued on all 4 sides at the same time, I wonder if it is even possible to squeeze the cartridge fast enough to get it all out, and then lower the glass (slowly??) onto the glue.

Maybe for that purpose it would be better to use the non-professional type with less strength, but a bit more flexibility with the extended dry period.
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Old 10-15-2008, 12:20 AM   #82 (permalink)
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Wasserpest, speak with Jens. He did a bang up job on his 90 gallon (formerly Jay Luto's tank that ruptured). He may have some pointers for you!
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Old 11-12-2008, 04:20 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Hey Scolly

I have started my project on a 22 gallon ADA style rimless tank. While mine is not as ambitious as your 75 gallon project, I did read all 44 pages of that post. It was definitely informational and your perseverance is commendable.

I have a question on RTV108. I have been trying to find out that product and have searched at local HD, Lowes, Ace but not seen it. When I mention "RTV108", I get looks as if I just landed from Mars . Can you share a photo of it if you have so that I know what to look for next time?

Malay
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Old 11-12-2008, 08:12 PM   #84 (permalink)
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I have a question on RTV108. I have been trying to find out that product and have searched at local HD, Lowes, Ace but not seen it. When I mention "RTV108", I get looks as if I just landed from Mars .
Google is your friend: http://www.altex.com/RTV-Silicone-Cl...8-P143191.aspx
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Old 11-12-2008, 08:18 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Thanks a lot PDX-PLT. They have this!!!
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