What kind of wood is MDF? - Page 2

**plantbrain** · 12-05-2005, 05:56 PM

I've used MDF for about 20 years making stands for up to 300gal, no studs or extra support was ever needed depending on the design you use.
I've always used framing ties(cents), these are much cheaper than angles(dollars). I use a water proof white primer and do 2-3 coats, then add the paint.

If you hit the paint with a good clear ployurethene, the water will never be an issue and the other added benefit, it looks nice/and makes cleaning it much easier.

I typically make the stand top larger than the tank about 1" to 3" lip, then make the base the same as the tank's size. I cut a door hole in the front and and read access hole in the back.

It is heavy, but it's extremely strong.

I do not suggest MDF for hoods, they weigh too much IMO, use the 1/4" popular etc, it's ligth and much more suitable.

Regards,
Tom Barr

Sponsors

TWood · 12-05-2005, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plantbrain

I do not suggest MDF for hoods, they weigh too much IMO, use the 1/4" popular etc, it's ligth and much more suitable.

Or use a hinge!

DarkCobra · 12-06-2005, 06:00 PM

Twood - I love that finish. Will be using it on my next project

TWood · 12-06-2005, 06:27 PM

Thanks,

That picture doesn't really do it justice, the flash shows off flaws that are much harder to see. The color is also *much* darker than that. I like the construction technique because it doesn't require as much precision. A belt sander with a heavy grit is your friend.

It's 3/4" material screwed together using countersunk screws, filled with Bondo, belt sanded smooth and then routered with a 1/2" roundover bit. Use a hole saw in a drill to cut openings, then router those too.

If you use yellow wood glue, wait a couple of weeks before painting to let the glue eek out, then sand it off. For some reason, that glue always eeks out of the joint just a bit.

TW

Matak · 12-10-2005, 03:16 AM

I'll second that Twood, it looks great, especially the 'big board' look with the routed edges. I think I will do that on my new tank. MDF looks fab if you sand it really well and stain it, then seal it with a clear varathane.

**bigstick120** · 12-10-2005, 05:05 AM

here is a good link about MDF
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/know...195108,00.html

I dont think I would trust it to support a 300 gallon tank without any other support though. I thought this was a fairly new product but the article says its been around since 60's.

jart · 12-10-2005, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigstick120

I thought this was a fairly new product but the article says its been around since 60's.

Perhaps it has been used by manufacturers for a long time, but has only been widely available to consumers for a relatively short while.

People's experience with this product seem to vary. When I first researched the design of my hood, I was informed that polyurethane would not provide adequate protection from water. Maybe this is untrue? Certainly it may be advisable to use a quality sealer on the MDF (2 coats) before applying a top caot of polyurethane. Remember, this stuff doesn't like getting wet.

jshmehr · 12-20-2005, 06:06 AM

MDF has been around since the 60s (as you said) and has been readily avail. for atleast 15 years (that I can remember).

As the article in the link above states, It is Great as a Uniform, Cheap, workable, smooth material. Personally, I would recommend using the MDF with extreme caution in the Aquarium scene.

To MDF professionals like Plantbrain, maybe no problem. But for most of us DIY people, it will only be a nightmare waiting to happen. I've purchased Aquarium stands from Aquarium Stand Manufacturers. In under a year, the border around the tank was bulging. The 'Moulding' around the base was bulging, swelling, & seperating from the stand itself. If the Manufacturer has a hard time ensuring the integrity of their product...DIY people Beware!!!

jgc · 12-20-2005, 01:29 PM

MDF has been arround for the consumer for quite some time as well. When I was 16 I used it to make speaker cabnets for my car - I am 37 now.

I lived in a small town - with a very small lumber yard.

gunboatbay · 01-23-2006, 02:58 AM

Most of the commercial, relatively inexpensive aquarium stands you speak of are made basically with particle board, not MDF. There's a world of difference between the two, most notably in moisture resistance and strength.

Matak · 01-24-2006, 02:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jgc

MDF has been arround for the consumer for quite some time as well. When I was 16 I used it to make speaker cabnets for my car - I am 37 now.

I lived in a small town - with a very small lumber yard.

When I was 16 I used it to make speaker cabnets for my stereo - I am 47 now.

Curare · 01-24-2006, 05:08 AM

MDF is fine for most things, as everyone has said, I do like it as it makes finishing a job easier, less sanding, but, still lots of sanding!!!!!

My tip is get yourself some waterproof sanding sealer, and thing it down with turpentine (if it's oil based) to the viscosity of water, and really lather it up, the mdf absorbs this more readily and wont expand the fibres that much. but what it does do is enables you to penetrate the mdf up to 1/16" in spots, which is better that 1micron!. I feel this makes it more stable to use in a wet environment.

I will say this also. MDF is NON LOAD BEARING, you'd be a wise person to build a decent timber structure to support the weight of the tank and then use MDF to "tart it up"

The results can be quite good.

12-10-2005, 03:16 AM	#20 (permalink)
Matak Planted Tank Obsessed (View User Tanks) PTrader: (0) Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Greater Toronto Area Posts: 319	I'll second that Twood, it looks great, especially the 'big board' look with the routed edges. I think I will do that on my new tank. MDF looks fab if you sand it really well and stain it, then seal it with a clear varathane. __________________ Steve Filstar advocate #29

12-10-2005, 05:05 AM	#21 (permalink)
bigstick120 Algae Eater (View User Tanks) PTrader: (106) Join Date: May 2005 Location: Maryland Posts: 2,034	here is a good link about MDF http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/know...195108,00.html I dont think I would trust it to support a 300 gallon tank without any other support though. I thought this was a fairly new product but the article says its been around since 60's. __________________ My Photography site See the evolution of my 55 gallon My 29 Gallon

12-20-2005, 01:29 PM	#24 (permalink)
jgc Planted Tank Enthusiast (View User Tanks) PTrader: (0) Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 926	MDF has been arround for the consumer for quite some time as well. When I was 16 I used it to make speaker cabnets for my car - I am 37 now. I lived in a small town - with a very small lumber yard. __________________ 58 gallon oceanic, 250w 10k pendent, pressurized co2, eheim pimp #179 - 2217 and diffuser

01-24-2006, 05:08 AM	#27 (permalink)
Curare Planted Tank Obsessed (View User Tanks) PTrader: (0) Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Fremantle, Western Australia Posts: 376	MDF is fine for most things, as everyone has said, I do like it as it makes finishing a job easier, less sanding, but, still lots of sanding!!!!! My tip is get yourself some waterproof sanding sealer, and thing it down with turpentine (if it's oil based) to the viscosity of water, and really lather it up, the mdf absorbs this more readily and wont expand the fibres that much. but what it does do is enables you to penetrate the mdf up to 1/16" in spots, which is better that 1micron!. I feel this makes it more stable to use in a wet environment. I will say this also. MDF is NON LOAD BEARING, you'd be a wise person to build a decent timber structure to support the weight of the tank and then use MDF to "tart it up" The results can be quite good. __________________ The Phoenix 10 gal Curare's bombed 3 gal nano 50 gal Australian native Like drops of fertiliser into the tank, so are the days of our CO2...

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

12-05-2005, 05:56 PM	#16 (permalink)
plantbrain Planted Tank Guru (View User Tanks) PTrader: (35) Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: The swamp Posts: 3,379	I've used MDF for about 20 years making stands for up to 300gal, no studs or extra support was ever needed depending on the design you use. I've always used framing ties(cents), these are much cheaper than angles(dollars). I use a water proof white primer and do 2-3 coats, then add the paint. If you hit the paint with a good clear ployurethene, the water will never be an issue and the other added benefit, it looks nice/and makes cleaning it much easier. I typically make the stand top larger than the tank about 1" to 3" lip, then make the base the same as the tank's size. I cut a door hole in the front and and read access hole in the back. It is heavy, but it's extremely strong. I do not suggest MDF for hoods, they weigh too much IMO, use the 1/4" popular etc, it's ligth and much more suitable. Regards, Tom Barr

12-06-2005, 06:00 PM	#18 (permalink)
DarkCobra Algae Torturer (View User Tanks) PTrader: (2) Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Baton Rouge, LA Posts: 655	Twood - I love that finish. Will be using it on my next project

12-06-2005, 06:27 PM	#19 (permalink)
TWood Planted Member (View User Tanks) PTrader: (0) Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Central Texas Posts: 268	Thanks, That picture doesn't really do it justice, the flash shows off flaws that are much harder to see. The color is also much darker than that. I like the construction technique because it doesn't require as much precision. A belt sander with a heavy grit is your friend. It's 3/4" material screwed together using countersunk screws, filled with Bondo, belt sanded smooth and then routered with a 1/2" roundover bit. Use a hole saw in a drill to cut openings, then router those too. If you use yellow wood glue, wait a couple of weeks before painting to let the glue eek out, then sand it off. For some reason, that glue always eeks out of the joint just a bit. TW

12-20-2005, 06:06 AM	#23 (permalink)
jshmehr Algae Grower (View User Tanks) PTrader: (0) Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Fresno, CA Posts: 8	MDF has been around since the 60s (as you said) and has been readily avail. for atleast 15 years (that I can remember). As the article in the link above states, It is Great as a Uniform, Cheap, workable, smooth material. Personally, I would recommend using the MDF with extreme caution in the Aquarium scene. To MDF professionals like Plantbrain, maybe no problem. But for most of us DIY people, it will only be a nightmare waiting to happen. I've purchased Aquarium stands from Aquarium Stand Manufacturers. In under a year, the border around the tank was bulging. The 'Moulding' around the base was bulging, swelling, & seperating from the stand itself. If the Manufacturer has a hard time ensuring the integrity of their product...DIY people Beware!!!

01-23-2006, 02:58 AM	#25 (permalink)
gunboatbay Algae Grower (View User Tanks) PTrader: (0) Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Canada Posts: 6	Most of the commercial, relatively inexpensive aquarium stands you speak of are made basically with particle board, not MDF. There's a world of difference between the two, most notably in moisture resistance and strength.