DIY Independent Ballast Connections

Raul-7 · 10-11-2005, 04:02 AM

I just recieved an Odyssea MH/PC/LED combo fixture today and realised there's going to be problem. Here's the outlook: the MH and PC ballast are both in a single aluminum housing - each has it's own indepent switch, but the problem is they're all connected via a single power line. My question is how can I change it to make them all have their own seperate power line so that I can connect them to seperate timers?

Matak · 10-14-2005, 01:25 AM

Can you show us a pic with the cover off and the wires exposed? The power probably goes to a common bus bar or is Marette connected and can be divided from there.

Raul-7 · 10-14-2005, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matak

Can you show us a pic with the cover off and the wires exposed? The power probably goes to a common bus bar or is Marette connected and can be divided from there.

I'm sorry but I don't have a digital camera, I'll try taking a picture with my phone later. But you're right about it being connected to a long clear plastic 'doohiky' with 24 connections. But it seems they have stuck more than one wire in some connections. Everyone tells me I should take to an electrician, but there's a risk they'll screw it up?

Matak · 10-14-2005, 11:27 PM

If you don't mind spending a few bucks, then taking it to an electrician (or even better, an electronic repair shop) is a safe bet, probably a safer bet than DIY, IMO.

Raul-7 · 10-15-2005, 02:58 AM

Alright, I'll try finding a good electrician around here. But should I give him both the ballast housing and the lighting unit (to make sure the connections correspond to the right lighting being turned on) or is it no needed?

Matak · 10-15-2005, 04:25 AM

It is probably not needed, but a call ahead could save a lot of time & aggravation. Did you consider an electronic repair shop? I don't know for sure but something tells me that they would be cheaper (and maybe more knowledgable) than an electrician in this case.

Best of luck, post here to let us know how it went.

**lumpyfunk** · 10-19-2005, 10:27 PM

You should be able to buy a timer that you can splice in line on the switches, then you dont need to take them apart.

Raul-7 · 11-04-2005, 07:48 PM

Well I took it to an electrician, and he ended up telling me that the MH ballast was somehow interconnected to all of the other ballasts and that having seperate power lines wasn't going to happen. He basically told me what lumpyfunk just said. But he said I needed a relay switch timer (?) which would basically turn the switches on/off automatically. I went to Fry's but they said they didn't carry them, anyone know where I can find them online?

**lumpyfunk** · 11-05-2005, 03:33 PM

Raul,
Basically all a switch does is open and close a circut, most that you will find easily are designed to be pluged into the wall and complete the circut for the main power source. you will have to do some looking, possibly at a raido shack or other eletronics store, but you could swap out the existing switches with ones that are desinged to run in line. I dont know exactly the parts you would need but I know it can be done. worst case is you would have to power the timer in addition.

I hope this makes sence, feel free to pm me with any more questions.

**lumpyfunk** · 11-05-2005, 04:47 PM

Raul-7, your PM box is full.

Raul-7 · 12-12-2005, 02:20 AM

Sorry to bring this back up, but it is worth noting. I managed to succesfully rewire the switches and hooked them up onto automatic timer switches, specifically the GE Grasslin ET 724. Works perfectly. Thanks for all the advice.

**lumpyfunk** · 12-13-2005, 05:47 AM

Glad to hear you got it figured out!! and thanks for the device that worked for you.

10-11-2005, 04:02 AM	#1 (permalink)
Raul-7 Wannabe Guru (View User Tanks) PTrader: (2) Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Lomita, CA Posts: 1,466	DIY Independent Ballast Connections I just recieved an Odyssea MH/PC/LED combo fixture today and realised there's going to be problem. Here's the outlook: the MH and PC ballast are both in a single aluminum housing - each has it's own indepent switch, but the problem is they're all connected via a single power line. My question is how can I change it to make them all have their own seperate power line so that I can connect them to seperate timers?

10-14-2005, 01:25 AM	#2 (permalink)
Matak Planted Tank Obsessed (View User Tanks) PTrader: (0) Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Greater Toronto Area Posts: 319	Can you show us a pic with the cover off and the wires exposed? The power probably goes to a common bus bar or is Marette connected and can be divided from there. __________________ Steve Filstar advocate #29

10-14-2005, 11:27 PM	#4 (permalink)
Matak Planted Tank Obsessed (View User Tanks) PTrader: (0) Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Greater Toronto Area Posts: 319	If you don't mind spending a few bucks, then taking it to an electrician (or even better, an electronic repair shop) is a safe bet, probably a safer bet than DIY, IMO. __________________ Steve Filstar advocate #29

10-15-2005, 04:25 AM	#6 (permalink)
Matak Planted Tank Obsessed (View User Tanks) PTrader: (0) Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Greater Toronto Area Posts: 319	It is probably not needed, but a call ahead could save a lot of time & aggravation. Did you consider an electronic repair shop? I don't know for sure but something tells me that they would be cheaper (and maybe more knowledgable) than an electrician in this case. Best of luck, post here to let us know how it went. __________________ Steve Filstar advocate #29

11-04-2005, 07:48 PM	#8 (permalink)
Raul-7 Wannabe Guru (View User Tanks) PTrader: (2) Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Lomita, CA Posts: 1,466	Well I took it to an electrician, and he ended up telling me that the MH ballast was somehow interconnected to all of the other ballasts and that having seperate power lines wasn't going to happen. He basically told me what lumpyfunk just said. But he said I needed a relay switch timer (?) which would basically turn the switches on/off automatically. I went to Fry's but they said they didn't carry them, anyone know where I can find them online? Last edited by Raul-7; 11-05-2005 at 03:02 AM.

10-15-2005, 02:58 AM	#5 (permalink)
Raul-7 Wannabe Guru (View User Tanks) PTrader: (2) Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Lomita, CA Posts: 1,466	Alright, I'll try finding a good electrician around here. But should I give him both the ballast housing and the lighting unit (to make sure the connections correspond to the right lighting being turned on) or is it no needed?

10-19-2005, 10:27 PM	#7 (permalink)
lumpyfunk Green Water Master (View User Tanks) PTrader: (29) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Prior Lake, MN (Twin Cities) Posts: 1,316	You should be able to buy a timer that you can splice in line on the switches, then you dont need to take them apart.

11-05-2005, 03:33 PM	#9 (permalink)
lumpyfunk Green Water Master (View User Tanks) PTrader: (29) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Prior Lake, MN (Twin Cities) Posts: 1,316	Raul, Basically all a switch does is open and close a circut, most that you will find easily are designed to be pluged into the wall and complete the circut for the main power source. you will have to do some looking, possibly at a raido shack or other eletronics store, but you could swap out the existing switches with ones that are desinged to run in line. I dont know exactly the parts you would need but I know it can be done. worst case is you would have to power the timer in addition. I hope this makes sence, feel free to pm me with any more questions.

11-05-2005, 04:47 PM	#10 (permalink)
lumpyfunk Green Water Master (View User Tanks) PTrader: (29) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Prior Lake, MN (Twin Cities) Posts: 1,316	Raul-7, your PM box is full.

12-12-2005, 02:20 AM	#11 (permalink)
Raul-7 Wannabe Guru (View User Tanks) PTrader: (2) Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Lomita, CA Posts: 1,466	Sorry to bring this back up, but it is worth noting. I managed to succesfully rewire the switches and hooked them up onto automatic timer switches, specifically the GE Grasslin ET 724. Works perfectly. Thanks for all the advice.

12-13-2005, 05:47 AM	#12 (permalink)
lumpyfunk Green Water Master (View User Tanks) PTrader: (29) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Prior Lake, MN (Twin Cities) Posts: 1,316	Glad to hear you got it figured out!! and thanks for the device that worked for you.

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