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#31 (permalink) | |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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Quote:
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#33 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Obsessed
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After having a little bit of a read on your thoughts expresseded in the all wet thumbs forums, I am starting to wonder about my dosing, and it's possible causes for my BBA outbreak...
From what I've learned so far, is that CO2 gives one a greater margin for error, and a wider scope to control plant growth, and in turn, nutrient uptake to the point where it out competes algae. However in the case of cyanobacteria, it's nitrogen fixing so that no matter how much co2 you add, if you have no N for the plants to utilise, the cyanabacteria will bloom on the remaining unused nutrients. Would it be fair to assume that a low level of KNO3 coupled with an overdose of KPO4 and traces be to blame? In that there is enough NO3 being used to not warrant an outbreak of cyanobacteria, as it's being outcompeted by the plants and possibly higher echelon algaes. However, The plants don't have enough to continute photosynthesising and the higher echelon algaes bloom. Basically I'm assuming that by dosing in the reigeme that I am, I'm depleting the NO3 too much for the plants and suddenly the bba has a chance to get a stranglehold? Also seeing as plants love a supply of NH4 would it be the next logical step to start adding NH4 to give the plants the winning edge in utilising the micros and macros? Yes, I'm adding fuel to the fire, I'd like to hear your opinions or your findings on this. Curare |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Enthusiast
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I started my 15ml of Excel a day after last Sunday's water change. Sunday is water change day again, about 50%. Am I suppose to skip the water change or perform water change as usual and then dose a bit more of Excel to bring the concentrations back up?
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#37 (permalink) |
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Planted Tank Guru
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Ok; The first time I did the excell treatment I had my UV on the whole time and it the excell did very little to improve bba or any thing else for that matter.
So I decided to try it again without the UV, and I'm pleased to say that after 7 days it appears to be working. I'm gonna keep it up for 4-5 more days to see if it will be erradicated completely. Observations after 7 days:There appears to be no new infected leaves. The previously black fuzz is turning almost white. All along I've been pruning the the grossly infected leaves, The hairgrass got a major pruning as I suspect that it was trapping a lot of detritus which was contributing to the problem.I've also been keeping my ferts up and CO2 levels up, as always. There is a couple of things that I did this last water change that seems to have had a very positive effect, and thats cleaning out both canister filters. I previously would only clean one out a time and I'd go months between cleanings. Heres one thing for sure, I'll be cleaning my canisters much more often and vacuuming the grass and substate at every water change from now on. I'll let you guys know what happens at the end of treatment and if the effects are lasting. Marcel
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FILSTAR Pimp #2
75 gal heavily planted,50/50 Black beauty,Eco-complete substrate, Pressurised CO2 with solenoid, ph controller, AB Reactor 1000, 330 watts 9325K GE PC lighting,Ehiem Liquidoser, 2-Filstar xp3 canisters. |
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#39 (permalink) |
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Algae Survivor
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I'm on day 2 of an Excel treatment for my BBA, hair and green spot algae. I'm using 25 mls daily in a 85G planted discus tank. I regularly remove as much algae as I can from tank surfaces and leaves, but there are still plants in my tank that are heavily affected. Here's my question -- should I wait a week or so until it starts dying off or should I agressively be removing the bad leaves now? I'm trying to avoid having to trim back certain plants (basically to nothing). Will waiting just prolong my algae problem?
On the positive side, I have been doing a number of things in the last few weeks, in addition to the Excel treatment, that I think are working (more plants, regular ferts dosing, etc.). Here are the water details, FYI: pH: 6.8 Temp: 84 KH: 5 degrees GH: 8 degrees Nitrate: 10 ppm PO4: 2 ppm Light: 3.0 WPG CO2: 24 ppm |
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#40 (permalink) |
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Wannabe Guru
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Jim, increase CO2 a bit, it will help a lot. It is rather expensive doing Excel in a 85 gallon. Did not realize you also have a discus tank
I want to hear about your discus at next SFBAAPS plant swap. With high CO2 and regular dosing, I don't have any algae except a bit of hair algae on gravel.
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Truvu 100g Flourite, wet/dry, AHSupply 302w PC, PinPoint controller
10gallon15w T6+15w T8 55gallon40w T6 ODNO4x, no CO2. Discus grow out. 10gallon Tonina tank, 2x15w T6 ODNO 4x --------------------- I will do aquascapes after I collect all the plant species and grow them to perfection. |
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#41 (permalink) |
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Algae Survivor
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Sha,
Thanks, I'll bump the CO2 up a bit and see if that helps. Yes, I have ten discus in my 85G, all between 4"-5". Leopards, Snakeskin, Snowflake, Blue Diamond, Yellow Sunrise, Phoenix and Red Melons. It's currently a discus-only tank, but I'm thinking about adding a few SAEs and Corys to help with algae control. I'm just hesitant because I don't want to visually detract from the discus. For me, it's all about the discus and plants Jim |
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#42 (permalink) | |
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Planted Tank Guru
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Quote:
Marcel
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FILSTAR Pimp #2
75 gal heavily planted,50/50 Black beauty,Eco-complete substrate, Pressurised CO2 with solenoid, ph controller, AB Reactor 1000, 330 watts 9325K GE PC lighting,Ehiem Liquidoser, 2-Filstar xp3 canisters. |
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#43 (permalink) |
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Doesn't like Kool-Aid
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I really think cutting of any UV sterilizers is very important to the Excel treatment.
The active ingredient in Excel seems to be a bit photo sensitive, so backing off on the UV is a good idea. I dosed Excel late in the day, toward the end of my photo period as well. Figured it would minimize light exposure. Mike
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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#45 (permalink) | |
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Watanabe Bulu
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Quote:
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James
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