I would recommend the Clippard as I like the design far better than the Burkett/ Milwaukee styles that have large moving parts and use more electrical power. The problem with a sliding movement is that it tends to stick when we use that amount of heat and apply it for the long time we open the solenoid. The Clippard uses far less power (.67watt!) and only opens a tiny metal flap somewhat like a small engine reed valve.
no, that is no problem.. BTW, it is not always recommended to use teflon on that side of the regulator.. Pieces can get into the reg itself..
Usually pipe dope is the recommended choice on the CGA side (personally all sides but that is just me)
Use locktite on the cga nipple, and don't use too much just a line 3 threads from the end of the nipple. Even dope can cause issues and some people use way too much
One thing not mentioned is the low pressure gauge. It has a really high range from 0 to 400PSI. This sounds good but for our use since we don't usually go very high pressure, the readings are a bit course. Each mark is ten PSI so it is hard to read a change that you might want to make from say 22 to 24. The change will be the same but a meter reading from 0-60 will let you see the change better. The meter will work well enough but if you wanted to spend $10-15 dollars for a different meter, it might be worth doing before you put it all together.
Not saying it has to be done, just a bit to think about as you move ahead.
The reg will go up to 250psi..
Getting a gauge below 200psi is a risk.. tiny risk but still a risk..
Better possibility is one w/ a better dial..like this:
As long as you want to run above 10psi...
2" gauge though, not 21/2...
After 10psi marks are in increments of 2psi.. Theoretically much better than what is attached..
anyways plenty of gauges on "the bay"..
2 1/2 5psi increments w/vacuum:
There are times when a bit of "why" is important to understanding "what" we need. Meters are one of those.
The reason for getting one that reads to a low range like 60PSI can give us a better look at the changes we make but it also can have a downside as mentioned. When we first open the valve on the tank and the regulator gets gas, it may take a bit of time (seconds?) before it get around to regulating the output. That means it may pass the high pressure on through to where the low pressure gauge sets and the high pressure can peg the meter to bend the internal parts or if high enough, it can actually blow out a part inside so that you have a leak.
So, in theory, putting a higher reading gauge can be less likely to blow if it can read to 300 rather than 60. Kind of a question if you are going to hit a 60PSI meter or a 300PSI meter as to which will last longer when hit with 1000-1500PSI? Maybe the 300 gets broken just a little while the 60 gets broken a whole bunch?
So a better plan is to avoid breaking/bending the meter by ALWAYS doing it right. You can avoid the damage by ALWAYS turning the working pressure adjustment fully counter-clockwise to shut off the gas flow, BEFORE you open the tank valve. That lets gas to the regulator, it gets the pressure regulated and THEN you turn the knob to let gas through and adjust the level. That's why I like a gauge that I can read and set back to the same place each time.
It is often good to have a meter that maxs out at about double what we would expect to use for pressure. So I might suggest looking for gauges in the 0-100 or 120 range at about $10-15.
i removed the the high pressure (replacing with another gauge for aesthetics) by using a c-clamp and the edge of a table but i'm having trouble with removing the low pressure gauge with the same method
can i use anything to lubricate the low pressure gauge to remove it?
Take some wood or heavy cardboard along to avoid scraping the reg in the vise? It will need some sturdy padding. If you are putting the meter in the vise and junking it, this isn't needed--if you can grab the reg well enough to turn it.
close to done, just waiting on the 2" high pressure gauge and a 1/4" FPT Elbow. gonna remove the 1/4" FPT adapter and 1/8" x 1/4" street elbow to shorten the left hand side
Looks good! Hopefully you wired the solenoid up to the correct adapter, and the CO2 cylinder has a current hydrotest date? And the total cost is somewhere around $300?
yeah the burkert solenoid was 24v. i should be fine with a 24v 1amp power adapter right? it makes the clicking sound when i plug it in but the amp has been bugging me
and the CO2 cylinder has a current hydrotest date?
i've set everything up yesterday and there weren't any leaks (soapy water in a spray bottle test)
[STRIKE]Drop Checker didn't change colors the whole day (installed at 12pm and waited til 6pm) and stayed blue :/ [/STRIKE]
Drop checker:
Filled it half way up with 4dkh solution from nilcog and added 3 drops of the pH test from the api master kit
i think i have to crank up the co2
CO2 -> rex grigg reactor -> 55 Gallon display w/ about 12 more gallons in the sump
edit: cranking the co2 up to 20 psi seems to have got the drop checkers to change colors. just gonna have to tweak it the next couple of days before the major rescape in a week, might start a journal later.
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