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Bought a Regulator, need post kit suggestions

5K views 31 replies 7 participants last post by  SingAlongWithTsing 
#1 · (Edited)
Just bought a Concoa 806-6805 Dual Stage regulator (Linked to Concoa's PDF spec sheet)




could use some post kit suggestions. mainly confused with the fitting sizes

I know i need to replace the 580 with a CGA320, get a 12v or 24v solenoid, and get a needle valve but that's about all i know lol

I have a Dici DC06-03 bubble counter/check valve already.

Plan is Regulator System -> Check Valve -> DIY Rex Griggs Reactor

Tank Specs: 55 gal (48 x 15.5 x 17.5) with a 29 gal sump.
Lighting: Planted+ 24/7 (24/7 mode)
1/3rd EI dosing + Daily 4ml glutaraldehyde

So far I'm debating between:
Solenoids: [STRIKE]Clippard Mouse vs[/STRIKE] Burkert 6011
Needle Valves: [STRIKE]Fabco nv-55 vs[/STRIKE] Ideal 52-1-12, leaning towards the Ideal
 
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#3 ·
#6 ·
I would recommend the Clippard as I like the design far better than the Burkett/ Milwaukee styles that have large moving parts and use more electrical power. The problem with a sliding movement is that it tends to stick when we use that amount of heat and apply it for the long time we open the solenoid. The Clippard uses far less power (.67watt!) and only opens a tiny metal flap somewhat like a small engine reed valve.



CO2 Regulator Parts | CO2 For Planted Tanks And Home Brewing. CO2 Regulator Post Body Kit #1

The Fabco needle valve works well for me but I like the NV-55 rather than the larger NV-55-18. I find the 10-32 fitting work for me the way I operate.
 
#8 ·
no, that is no problem.. BTW, it is not always recommended to use teflon on that side of the regulator.. Pieces can get into the reg itself..
Usually pipe dope is the recommended choice on the CGA side (personally all sides but that is just me)
 
#13 ·
One thing not mentioned is the low pressure gauge. It has a really high range from 0 to 400PSI. This sounds good but for our use since we don't usually go very high pressure, the readings are a bit course. Each mark is ten PSI so it is hard to read a change that you might want to make from say 22 to 24. The change will be the same but a meter reading from 0-60 will let you see the change better. The meter will work well enough but if you wanted to spend $10-15 dollars for a different meter, it might be worth doing before you put it all together.
Not saying it has to be done, just a bit to think about as you move ahead.
 
#14 · (Edited by Moderator)
The reg will go up to 250psi..
Getting a gauge below 200psi is a risk.. tiny risk but still a risk..
Better possibility is one w/ a better dial..like this:


As long as you want to run above 10psi...
2" gauge though, not 21/2...
After 10psi marks are in increments of 2psi.. Theoretically much better than what is attached..

anyways plenty of gauges on "the bay"..
2 1/2 5psi increments w/vacuum:
 
#15 ·
#16 ·
#17 ·
There are times when a bit of "why" is important to understanding "what" we need. Meters are one of those.
The reason for getting one that reads to a low range like 60PSI can give us a better look at the changes we make but it also can have a downside as mentioned. When we first open the valve on the tank and the regulator gets gas, it may take a bit of time (seconds?) before it get around to regulating the output. That means it may pass the high pressure on through to where the low pressure gauge sets and the high pressure can peg the meter to bend the internal parts or if high enough, it can actually blow out a part inside so that you have a leak.
So, in theory, putting a higher reading gauge can be less likely to blow if it can read to 300 rather than 60. Kind of a question if you are going to hit a 60PSI meter or a 300PSI meter as to which will last longer when hit with 1000-1500PSI? Maybe the 300 gets broken just a little while the 60 gets broken a whole bunch?

So a better plan is to avoid breaking/bending the meter by ALWAYS doing it right. You can avoid the damage by ALWAYS turning the working pressure adjustment fully counter-clockwise to shut off the gas flow, BEFORE you open the tank valve. That lets gas to the regulator, it gets the pressure regulated and THEN you turn the knob to let gas through and adjust the level. That's why I like a gauge that I can read and set back to the same place each time.
It is often good to have a meter that maxs out at about double what we would expect to use for pressure. So I might suggest looking for gauges in the 0-100 or 120 range at about $10-15.
 
#18 ·
i removed the the high pressure (replacing with another gauge for aesthetics) by using a c-clamp and the edge of a table but i'm having trouble with removing the low pressure gauge with the same method

can i use anything to lubricate the low pressure gauge to remove it?
 
#19 ·
Looks like both gauges used the same type of sealant..so no..not really..

For normal things heat always works BUT I don't recommend it for a regulator..
I've always found metal is stronger than any tape/sealant though.. ;)
 
#23 · (Edited)
close to done, just waiting on the 2" high pressure gauge and a 1/4" FPT Elbow. gonna remove the 1/4" FPT adapter and 1/8" x 1/4" street elbow to shorten the left hand side

i just went with alanle's instructions: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...rkert-6011-hoke-1300-series-needle-valve.html

90% sure ima ditch the DICI bubble counter now that i have a stainless steel check valve. gonna use the rex grigg reactor as a bubble counter

 
#24 · (Edited)
finally done building it:


Parts List and prices I got the parts for the curious:
Regulator: Concoa 806-6805 Dual Stage ($45)
Solenoid: Burkert 6011 (24V version) w/2506 connector ($41.95)
Needle Valve: Ideal Valve 52-1-12 ($77.98)
Low Pressure Gauge: Helicoid 0-300psi (2 psi increments) ($7.20)
High Pressure Gauge: Wika 0-3000 ($11.55)
Misc Brass Fittings ($31.74)
Total: $221.63

Kinda tempted to replace the T-Handle for a knob

Ordered a 20lb Co2 tank from ezryder, just need to wait for it to get here and fill it (Found a plce near me that'll fill for $21ish).

Finished the Co2 reactor too:


Just crammed the 1/4" CO2 tubing threw a 7/32" hole. already leak tested it. Those are 3/4" input and outputs.
 
#27 ·
Looks good! Hopefully you wired the solenoid up to the correct adapter
yeah the burkert solenoid was 24v. i should be fine with a 24v 1amp power adapter right? it makes the clicking sound when i plug it in but the amp has been bugging me

and the CO2 cylinder has a current hydrotest date?
it should be good enough for swap/refill immediately according to ezryder

And the total cost is somewhere around $300?
yeah, $221.63 for the regulator + $95 shipped for the CO2 cylinder
 
#31 ·
Co2 Cylinder from ezryder came in the mail today


Last test date on this one was from May? 2015


Gonna have to fill it up on Monday. Too busy today and tomorrow and the place with the cheapest refill/swap is not open on Sundays.
 
#32 · (Edited)
i've set everything up yesterday and there weren't any leaks (soapy water in a spray bottle test)

[STRIKE]Drop Checker didn't change colors the whole day (installed at 12pm and waited til 6pm) and stayed blue :/ [/STRIKE]

Drop checker:

Filled it half way up with 4dkh solution from nilcog and added 3 drops of the pH test from the api master kit

i think i have to crank up the co2

CO2 -> rex grigg reactor -> 55 Gallon display w/ about 12 more gallons in the sump

edit: cranking the co2 up to 20 psi seems to have got the drop checkers to change colors. just gonna have to tweak it the next couple of days before the major rescape in a week, might start a journal later.
 
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