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rimless tank with bottom hole

3K views 21 replies 8 participants last post by  Regloh 
#1 · (Edited)
I was able to get a very nice deal on a rimless tank that a store had purchased and opted not to use. It is a 48"x15"x15", just over 40 gallons. The construction is solid... excellent silicone, ground edges, .5" thick glass, etc.

The problem is that the tank came with what appears to be a 1.5" hole in the bottom left corner for a bulkhead inlet pipe. Would you recommend I try and find a way to use this hole or block it and go with traditional lily pipes?

The bottom of the tank is lifted .5" on the sides creating potential for a sealed bulkhead to block it off without messing with the bottom support or the other thing they recommended was silicone and a scrap piece of glass on the inside I can bury under the soil. What would you advise with this situation?

Thanks!
 
#3 ·
The tank is a bit on the shallow side, especially once filled with soil. I was thinking a variation of iwagumi would suit it nicely, but hiding the bulkhead would prove a problem.

How would I hide this bulkhead? And do they make transparent ones :) ?

Would you suggest a Loc intake/outtake (if such a thing can even be plumbed in a hole like that... i've seen them on reef tanks before).
 
#5 ·
Look here to find the bulhead size you need. - Looks like a 1.5" hole either needs a 1/2" or 3/4" bulkhead.

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_Aquar...mbing_parts_fittings_bulkheads_strainers.html

You will also see strainers on that page. If you do an iwagumi set-up you could use a strainer for the filter inlet. Just hide it with hairgrass, a rock, etc. Your output will have to come over the top of the tank unless you can drill another hole for that. However, if you drill another hole in the bottom and use that for the output, a standard canister filter will not have enough flow to overcome the head pressure caused by the tank full of water. I would just recommend you use the bulkhead for the inlet and then get a lily pipe or just use the regular ouput tubes for canister filters.

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_Aquar...fittings_loc_line_flexible_ball_socket_2.html

On the back side of the bulkhead (under the tank) you will want a ball valve and union there so you can shut off the flow of water and disconnect your filter. Then attach a barbed fitting to the union and connect the filter hose. Are you good with plumbing stuff or do you need more details?
 
#6 ·
I suggest you get a threaded bulkhead. If you have deep substrate you will need a pvc riser too keep the intake screen out of the substrate and to keep it from sucking up sand/gravel. Get them at any hardware store. Risers are about 2" or so.

The underside of you tank should look something like this.

Get a ball valve/union combo (one piece) so you can disconnect easily.


Here are some details of my plumbing system...see page 4 and 5.
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...07-rimless-75-gallon-close-loop-filter-4.html
 
#7 ·
Cool dimensions! You could do some out of the ordinary things with that, even though it's somewhat limiting.

I would get the opposite side drilled and have both in and outtake in the floor. Would make for a real clean Iwigami (sp) look without having to pull too much equipment for the money shot. Floor drilled tanks are practically money shots all day and day.

A Magdrive return should push the water just fine, and there are smaller OceanClear type filters around now. You can find all that stuff dirt cheap on the right forums, Tom sold me his OC325 for $65. You could probably setup that kind of filtration for far less than a AIO canister.
 
#8 ·
I'm fairly good with plumbing :) Built several Koi ponds and been a hobbyist for around 7 years; just never dealt with aquariums and wasn't sure how it would work considering it is something I generally see in reefs hidden in the rocks.

I think using it as an inlet would be awesome! I will figure out a way to elevate it a couple of inches off the bottom to compensate for the soil and return through a lily. Thanks for the help :)
 
#20 ·
Another question... would this ground level bulkhead with a plastic grate conical thingy (really technical here!) be a bad idea for shrimp? I mean they'd walk literally right next to the intake... any thoughts?

If I was to seal this and not use the bulkhead method, what thickness of glass would I use siliconed to the bottom? Or is a bulkhead with a cap insert the better (safer?) approach?
 
#21 ·
Bulkhead with cap would give you the easier option of using it if you changed your mind in the future. Other wise, a standard 3/16 piece of glass would do. If you use the bulkhead now for a drain, I'd also install a standpipe to get the drain opening about 1/2" from the surface. That'd not only "skim" the surface water, but it'd also prevent completely draining your tank if you developed a leak somewhere. Tall plants would hide the pipe.
 
#22 ·
Blair, if you are going to "patch" the hole with a glass patch, I would install it on the inside of the tank (top of the glass) this way the water pressure helps to seal the hole. Otherwise the silicone seal has to take the hole load in tension. It should work, but why take the chance if you can avoid it.

EDIT: But capped bulkhead would be my favorite solution as well. I hate silicone ;)
 
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