im using 2 canister filters on my 90 and i was wondering since they are on opposite side of the tank can i have a joined spray bar that gets fed from each end. sorta like this
---->>-----------------------<<----
out put canister 1------same spray bar----------output canister 2
I think this would work, but be sure to have larger holes at the ends. Otherwise all the flow will go middle portion of the pipe. Best is to have a tapper of larger holes on the ends to smaller holes in the center.
I have been thinking of the same thing since I now own two eheim 2217's. roud: I wonder if it would put strain on the motors though or what. Maybe some others can chime in and give thoughts. I wanted to do it this way and run both with co2 inline so there is never a dead spot with co2 as well.
i think i would be kind of like attaching a hose from one faucet to another then putting some holes in the hose and turning both faucets on. only problem i see, not that i am a plumber or anything, is that if the pumps are not matched you might burn the weaker one out quicker. but i could be wrong about that.
Yeah that could be true but say for example eheim spray bar not sure on the size of it but say its a foot long. Now at the end of the foot there is a cap so the the pressure would stay in the spray bar and force the water out. Now wouldnt it kinda do the same thing if you just made that tube double the size and forced water from both ends?
Hope I explained that ok and easy for others to understand.
If someone wanted to merge two filters into one long spray bar, I would suggest not merging them, but just butting them up against each other. To use the previous diagrams:
---->>-----------| |-----------<<----
out put canister 1--------spray-bar-1--------| |--------spray-bar-2--------output canister 2
It achieves the same goal originally wanted without any of the drawbacks.
Alternatively, I have two canisters with each having a spray bar that goes completely across the back wall of the tank. I like this best.
out put canister 1-----spray-bar-1---------->>---------->>---------->>----------|
If someone wanted to merge two filters into one long spray bar, I would suggest not merging them, but just butting them up against each other. To use the previous diagrams:
---->>-----------| |-----------<<----
out put canister 1--------spray-bar-1--------| |--------spray-bar-2--------output canister 2
It achieves the same goal originally wanted without any of the drawbacks.
75g tank. One spray bar is connected to an Eheim Pro II 2128 (which drives my 12X 36w UV sterilizer at night), and the other bar is connected to a Rena XP4 (which drives the CO2 reactor).
You could have one spraybar with filters attached at each end and then put a plug of some kind in the middle of the bar. This would prevent any competition from different pressures. Or just use two spraybars as complexity said.
I think that putting stop plug in the center would be the way go. Only if 1 filter fails for some reason you would force water pressure back to the other filter or even if 1 gets clog and flow slows down on ether filter ? I have been ordering parts from here and they have a spray bar that would work for you an i think they come 24inchs and you can add to it. http://www.modularhose.com/
Or just use gray pvc and DIY with hose barbs IMO I would not do 1 for 2 filters.
Personally, I don't see an advantage in connecting the spray bars. Think of the logistics involved when you need to take it apart for cleaning.[/QUOTE]
makes sense when i think about it, just trying to make the equiptment symetrical.
Would replacing the spray bar(s) with these (one for each output) be an alternative solution? I haven't used them so I have no direct experience. They're rated for up to 310ph which may be more than what each filter is pushing. It seems that they would (independently) address the circulation issue, though: http://www.hydor.it/en/products/show/16
At first blush, I'd suggest not using them. First, I personally don't like having a blast of water from one point in the tank (or two points with two filters). I prefer to have water gently moving throughout. But being my personal choice doesn't make it better.
What also caught my eye was this bit in the description:
"Moves the aquarium water increasing oxygenation and surface gas exchange..."
What that says to me is bye-bye CO2.
There needs to be a slight ripple at the surface so the surface isn't stagnant, but it should be gentle as to not degas the CO2. It appears the Hydor water deflectors are designed to assist with degassing which is exactly what you don't want.
all pumps, filters, flow increasing devices, etc. have that as one of their main selling points. anytime you increase flow... every time, you increase surface gas exchange. True, water sitting still would be a lot easier to keep Co2 in than water with high flow, but this device simply directs the current flow, which technically doesn't increase surface movement at all, instead it helps surface movement happen at all areas of the tank's surface at different times. This wouldn't really increase degassing of Co2 much at all (if any)
I do agree on trying to get the flow into spraybars if you can get spraybars that'll handle your filter's flow once they're clogged a little.
Are you saying that it automatically rotates itself when it's used? I took the rotating part to mean you can rotate the head to direct the water flow where you want it.
Maybe I'm not familiar enough with the product. I see it as more of a jet stream from one spot than a gentle flow all across the back.
it auto rotates I believe. They're used in salt water tanks as "wavemakers" At least, in addition to the normal timed pump setup of a wavemaker.
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