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Eheim 2026 Review

28K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  wonder woman 
#1 ·
About a month ago, I purchased the Eheim 2026 Pro II from Drs. Foster & Smith for $165.99 including media and intake/spraybar upgrades. I put it into use Saturday April 17th and have been holding on posting until some problems were resolved..

The overall design of the unit is great, very sleek and it appears built to last. I had some concerns about the initial setup, as this is my first canister, but it was a breeze. Everything in the included kits went together easily and the easy-prime feature couldn't be simpler. I fired it up and away it went, filtering out all stray bits of algae I had scrubbed off the tank walls.

The noise from the unit is significantly less than the previous stock Eclipse 2 filter. There is a very gentle hum from the motor, which you can only hear when you put your head near the canister. There is also a very quiet sound, which I take to be water swishing through the unit. The maint. indicator (flow ball) also makes a bit of noise, rattling back and forth in its chamber. I called Eheim North America and they have a fix for that which will be available in the next month to month and a half for North American customers. It may already be available in other countries.

The only real problem I have had was that the impeller cover broke six days after I started using the unit. There is no visible stress on the plastic. It just snapped where it inserts into the pump head frame. The filter still works quietly and the flow rate is only reduced slightly (causing the ball to rattle a little more). I contacted Eheim N.A. and they said that they have had a few complaints of this lately, perhaps from a bad batch. (My luck, sheesh..) They are sending a new one under warranty, and I'm mailing back the old one for them to inspect. Eheim and Drs. Foster & Smith have been really stand-up companies throughout all of this.

Comments/Questions?
 
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#2 ·
I also have a 2026 and so far i am extreemly happy with it.I have however had a couple of minor problems you should be aware of.For some unknown reason the first time i disconected the hoses from the filter one of the valves did not seal,fortunately i caught it before too much water escaped,but i would strongly recommend removing the caps on the spray bar and intake before working on the filter.Also it appears that Eheim have some kind of coating inside the green hoses,when i reprimed some small white flakes shot out of the spray bar they did'nt seem to cause any problems but i would recommend cleaning out the hoses.Also while i found the new spraybar-intake assemblys a big impovement i felt they were a bit unsightly when installed ,my solution was to use just one section of sray bar aimed upward to provide surface movement,i then just used the right angle fitting aimed down.I have found that with this arrangement i get a nice gentle rippling on the surface, good circulation,and i only have about 6 inches of spray bar in the tank.
 
#3 ·
esterman said:
For some unknown reason the first time i disconected the hoses from the filter one of the valves did not seal,fortunately i caught it before too much water escaped,but i would strongly recommend removing the caps on the spray bar and intake before working on the filter.
I had quite a splash the first time I disconnected the hoses. Try pulling the grey lever forward WITHOUT holding the red safety catch button in. That keeps the hoses in place while allowing you to fully close the dual taps. Then press the catch release and pull the grey lever the rest of the way. The double-tap should be free with no spillage. I'm not seeing what the caps have to do with this process.

Also it appears that Eheim have some kind of coating inside the green hoses,when i reprimed some small white flakes shot out of the spray bar they did'nt seem to cause any problems but i would recommend cleaning out the hoses.
I didn't see any of that, perhaps they've reworked those hoses.

Also while i found the new spraybar-intake assemblys a big impovement i felt they were a bit unsightly when installed
This is a matter of personal preference. I can understand how one might see the upgrades as a little bulky. I think the grey color blends in much better than the bright green alternative, and the design is a clear improvement in terms of pure function.
 
#4 ·
The grey caps i am refering to are the ones on the sraybar and return where they go over the lip of the tank, if removed they prevent any water from siphoning out should the double hose assembly fail to seal when removed from the pump body.Once removed the double hose assembly should seal automaticaly,but the first time i removed mine they did not,by removing the grey caps it negates any chance of water siphoning,it may seem to be a bit of a pain in the neck to go through this procedure but believe me if one of those ball valves fail to seat its amazing how much water can escape,i speak from experiece!
 
#7 ·
I have had my 2026's for over two years. They have been quiet and easy to work on. I have nver seen any white flakes which is a bit odd.

The ball moving around is also a bit strange, mine does not rattle at all. The only problem I have encountered is the release of fine bubbles due to gas exchange in the canister.

Other than that, my 2026's have both perform as they were designed unlike some fo the copies that are around.

Heres one for Raul-7, why is is that most canisters on the market now look like an Eheim copy. Must be that other companies know how good the Eheim is but they just can't cut the quality.

Paul
 
#8 ·
esterman said:
The grey caps i am refering to are the ones on the sraybar and return where they go over the lip of the tank, if removed they prevent any water from siphoning out should the double hose assembly fail to seal when removed from the pump body.Once removed the double hose assembly should seal automaticaly,but the first time i removed mine they did not,by removing the grey caps it negates any chance of water siphoning,it may seem to be a bit of a pain in the neck to go through this procedure but believe me if one of those ball valves fail to seat its amazing how much water can escape,i speak from experiece!
I really think that removing the caps and letting air in the system is unnecessary. The ball valves are so sturdy I'm not sure how they would "fail" unless you repeatedly beat the double tap connector with a sledge hammer. The red lever (that locks into the grey lever) controls the ball valves, not the grey lever or the disconnection from the unit. The seal is automatic, but if you are pulling on the hoses and holding the catch before the grey lever is all the way forward, you might be able to yank it loose while the ball valves are still open. You can also open them by using the red lever after the hoses are separated from the pump head. I'm thinking you must have done one of those things.

To Raul-7 & the Eheim pimps: Would I still buy the 2026 knowing that the impeller cover would need to be replaced? Yes, the filter is quiet, sturdy, powerful, convenient, aesthetically pleasing, easy to maintain, etc. The impeller cover is a temporary issue and it still works quietly with the impeller out of place and the impeller chamber partly open!

I've never seen any flakes or fine bubbles..
 
#10 ·
George Willms said:
Take that Raul!
LOL..

Update: I have received the new impeller cover and installed it. It is running so quietly now that I just checked the flow ball to make sure it was on..

Plus Eheim sent me the coolest Eheim accessory (hehe..):

 
#16 ·
I just set up my new 2028 last night. It took a while, because I've never had a canister filter before, and I am completely unfamiliar with how they work, and also, because I feel that the instructions are somewhat general and vague. But, it is running very smoothly.
It took several pumps to prime the filter, and I'm wondering if that's normal.
So, for those of you with co2, a couple of questions:
1- In what direction to you point the spraybar(s), so as not to blow the plants away, or agitate the surface? Do you have the spraybar at the center of the tank, or on one side? What about the intake?
2- Exactly how do you attach the co2 tube? Do you use external reactors, or do you somehow connect the co2 hose to the intake or outlet of the canister?
This is the next step for me (figuring out how to attach the co2 tube), so any help greatly appreciated!
 
#17 ·
An external reactor connected to the outlet of the canister is usually the best way to go... Clean water is pumped through so you don't have to clean it as often.. and you don't run the risk of impedeing the flow through the intake of the canister.

Priming a canister filter is different for everyone.. some people it can be 1-2 pumps.. others many many more.. it all depends on how far away the canister is from the top of the tank, how many bends in the tubing.. length of tubing, etc.. The first time you prime is a little different too as you hav eno water in the system to really kick start it.
 
#18 ·
GDominy-
Okay, that completely makes sense. So, if I were to get something like the Aquamedic reactor 1000, I would attach it inline with the outlet tubing from the canister, right? I haven't looked that closely at the mechanics of the 1000, but I'm assuming that, besides the intake/ outlet holes there's an inlet hole for the co2 tube. Does that sound right?
 
#20 ·
Great, thanks! I know what my next purchase will be, unless I can make a DIY version.
 
#22 ·
Yeah, i know there are some good DIY plans out there, as well as a few forum members who might be making/selling them themselves for much less than the Aquamedic. I'm tempted to go this route. And it would be fun to make something like that. I like being crafty.
 
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