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post #16 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Crimson View Post
Agreed.

I use a 300 hydor inline on my 45 gallon, but it is controlled by my apex. I have the Hydor set at 82 and the apex is set to 76. If the probe in the apex goes at least they Hydor will be the backup and max out at 82 (in theory) but I have my apex email me if something goes strange anyway.

You could always buy a external controller just for the heater. I heard good things about the RANCO controller: RANCO ETC-111000 Digital Cold Temperature Control NEW: Tools Products: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Having a controller for all the heaters I have running in the winter would put me in the poor house. ($1 a gallon sale may still do it)

If you have the Apex at 76 then I would run the heater at 80 not 82. But that's me. With a controller you've taken out a stuck on heater but you are sunk if the element fails. Yeah. They fail. Back in the day you could replace just the element. Won't even tell you how many Frankenheaters I've made. Trouble came when the heater that was marked 50 had a 150 element. That among other things that came about anyway.

Dilution is the solution for the pollution.
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post #17 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 04:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s View Post
Having a controller for all the heaters I have running in the winter would put me in the poor house. ($1 a gallon sale may still do it)

If you have the Apex at 76 then I would run the heater at 80 not 82. But that's me. With a controller you've taken out a stuck on heater but you are sunk if the element fails. Yeah. They fail. Back in the day you could replace just the element. Won't even tell you how many Frankenheaters I've made. Trouble came when the heater that was marked 50 had a 150 element. That among other things that came about anyway.
So the moral of the story is every setup is a potential gamble?
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post #18 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 05:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by derik999 View Post
So the moral of the story is every setup is a potential gamble?
Yes anytime you mix electric and water. I originally had my apex keep temp 79 but that might be warm side so I lowered it to 76
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post #19 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klibs View Post
Do not use 2 heaters. Just get one that will get the job done. There is really no reason to get 2 IMO

how big is your tank?
Unless the heater is an inline version, this is bad advise. Never depend on one heater if you have fish or inverts in the tank. If it goes, your tank can be in trouble. Its also good practice to get a controller so that if the heater fails in the on position, it will cut the circuit. Also 2 lower watt heaters on opposite sides of the tank will distribute the heat a lot more evenly and not cause the heater to short cycle.

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post #20 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s View Post
Having a controller for all the heaters I have running in the winter would put me in the poor house. ($1 a gallon sale may still do it)

If you have the Apex at 76 then I would run the heater at 80 not 82. But that's me. With a controller you've taken out a stuck on heater but you are sunk if the element fails. Yeah. They fail. Back in the day you could replace just the element. Won't even tell you how many Frankenheaters I've made. Trouble came when the heater that was marked 50 had a 150 element. That among other things that came about anyway.

I did use two heaters in my reef tank as they were in a sump. The reef tank was a far more of an financial investment though. I did not take any chances with my inhabitants since
some very rare wrasses, venustus angel and sps corals.

I also have an apex controller that will email me if the temp is too low or high. If an element fails and the temp drops I will know. I don't trust heaters and having two heaters is a very good practice. I use only one inline heater for now thats in a closed loop. I have spare heaters from my reef breakdown but arent inline.
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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Crimson View Post
I did use two heaters in my reef tank as they were in a sump. The reef tank was a far more of an financial investment though. I did not take any chances with my inhabitants since
some very rare wrasses, venustus angel and sps corals.

I also have an apex controller that will email me if the temp is too low or high. If an element fails and the temp drops I will know. I don't trust heaters and having two heaters is a very good practice. I use only one inline heater for now thats in a closed loop. I have spare heaters from my reef breakdown but arent inline.
Being kept informed is really nice. What happens when you're 1000 miles away and can't get in touch with anyone and the temp is on the way down to 60?

Bump:
Quote:
Originally Posted by derik999 View Post
So the moral of the story is every setup is a potential gamble?
Life itself is a gamble. You expect fish keeping to be any different? I just like to maximize my chances of winning the bet every so often.

Dilution is the solution for the pollution.
Quote me as saying I was misquoted.
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Here's to our wives and sweethearts - may they never meet.
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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-27-2014, 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s View Post
Being kept informed is really nice. What happens when you're 1000 miles away and can't get in touch with anyone and the temp is on the way down to 60?
Unlike the Reef keeper, the apex gives you control to shut certain outlets down individually via wifi. The downside is that the Apex is alot more expense. The reef keeper will all email you but you can't control it remotely like the Apex. I will be going with the reef keeper myself eventually. Both units actually have a probe in which the units will disconnect power once the temps gets to that setpoint.

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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-27-2014, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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I think I'm going to go with the inline heater, probably the 300w Hydor.

Does anyone have any experience with this temperature controller?

http://www.aqualogicinc.com/products/temp_controllers/

I'm looking at the single stage version but not sure what voltage I should use.
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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-27-2014, 02:04 PM
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300 watts on a 40. Man I don't even OWN a 300 watt heater. And I have 75s and 90s.

Dilution is the solution for the pollution.
Quote me as saying I was misquoted.
Once you get rid of integrity the rest is a piece of cake.
Here's to our wives and sweethearts - may they never meet.
If you agreed with me we'd both be right.
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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-27-2014, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crimson View Post
Agreed.

I use a 300 hydor inline on my 45 gallon, but it is controlled by my apex. I have the Hydor set at 82 and the apex is set to 76. If the probe in the apex goes at least they Hydor will be the backup and max out at 82 (in theory) but I have my apex email me if something goes strange anyway.

You could always buy a external controller just for the heater. I heard good things about the RANCO controller: RANCO ETC-111000 Digital Cold Temperature Control NEW: Tools Products: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I recently set up this same thing. Can you copy/paste the program for the heater you are using? I'm curious to see another way of doing it.
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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 02:00 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraphicGr8s View Post
300 watts on a 40. Man I don't even OWN a 300 watt heater. And I have 75s and 90s.
I went with the 200w since the outlet on my Eheim is 1/2" and they offer a 1/2" version of the 200w.
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 03:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mflander View Post
I recently set up this same thing. Can you copy/paste the program for the heater you are using? I'm curious to see another way of doing it.
Here you go:

Fallback OFF
If Temp < 76.0 Then ON
If Temp > 76.5 Then OFF
If Outlet PumpShutOff = ON Then OFF
If Outlet Pump_5_3 = OFF Then OFF
If Power Apex Off 000 Then OFF

The last three lines are custom to my setup.

Outlet pump shutoff is used for water changes, shuts all pumps off.

Pump 53 is a closed loop that supplies via inline CO2 diffuser and heat to the tank. I did not connect the heater or co2 to the canister filter line.

power apex is if the house loses power only the filter and air stone are on battery backup. this is so the heater does not kill the battery backup or UPS.

Last edited by Crimson; 08-28-2014 at 03:49 AM. Reason: fix
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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 04:48 AM
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Thanks, very similar to what I came up with except I am only letting it bounce around .3 degrees. I may spread it more to keep the on/off switch rate down even more.
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 08-28-2014, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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Alright I ordered the 200w inline and the Aqua Logic Single Stage digital temperature controller.

Also ordered a HM Digital TDS-EZ Tester, that Python brand maintenance system, test kits and some other various maintenance stuff.

Got the driftwood today but didn't have a chance to unpack it.

Things are moving along now.
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