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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-06-2004, 01:14 AM Thread Starter
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Want to run a double membrane diffuser in the sump of a wet/dry,flowing approx.600gph.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-06-2004, 01:47 PM
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probably not. They don't really work all that well.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-07-2004, 02:42 AM Thread Starter
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Can any type of diffuser be used in the sump.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-07-2004, 04:42 AM
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Probably any CO2 that you successfully diffuse in the sump will be lost, because there's a lot of surface agitation in a typical sump. Your best bet might be bubbling CO2 into the input of the return pump. As long as there isn't a lot of surface agitation in the tank, from the return, you may have some success. The outflow should be beneath the water line...

If you post some more info on your setup I might be able to offer other suggestions.

Good luck.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-07-2004, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you, the set up that i have is, 65gal.all-glass twin-flow pre drilled,36"x18"x24"high. Wet/Dry filter rated for up to a 125gal.Little Giant pump3-mdq-sc 650gph at 3', pressurizes co2 system, minus the diffuser.
I,am trying to keep all i can out of the tank.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-07-2004, 08:52 PM
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Well, do you have a heavy bioload? I ask because a wet/dry really isn't the ideal situation for a planted tank.

Wet/drys are great at rapidly converting large amounts of biological waste (mainly Ammonia) to less-toxic Nitrates, and at gas exchange/oxygenation. Both of these functions are important for tanks with a lot of Cichlids, or other messy fish.

In a planted tank, however, your plants should be capable of using nitrogen compounds, including NH4+ and NO3, directly, so can do most of your biological filtration better than a wet/dry. Some bacteriological processes are still necessary, but you don't need the huge, highly oxygenated surface area that a wet/dry provides. Plants also oxygenate the water.

See what I'm getting at?

You might consider modifying your sump. It can be used to hide your heater, diffuse CO2 (via the pump inlet, as mentioned before), and also to do mechanical filtration. For mechanical filtration - I'd suggest a prefilter stage - i.e. ceramic rings - for large particles, some foam for medium particles, and some poly fiber for small particles. You'd want to have all of this occuring fully submerged, and avoid trickling/splashing.

Does this make sense? I hope it helps.

Ian

Edit: I realized I wasn't clear on this - the biggest drawback of a wet/dry in a planted tank is that the massive gas exchange will make it impossible to maintain CO2 concentrations much higher than ambient. Even without the wet/dry, you'll be wasting a lot of CO2 to the flow of the water through the compartments of your sump. You'll have to make a conscious effort to minimize gas exchange in every component of the system. The one component you can't do much about is the overflows -- CO2 will be outgassed in the standpipes, plumbing (tubes/hoses/pipes), and in the first compartment of the sump. Luckily, you'll be re-carbonating the water before it is returned to the tank, which is about as good as it gets. Good luck!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-08-2004, 04:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you, great info. I now understand what i need to do, modifying the wet/dry for all to be submerged. (no trickle or splash).
Thank you again.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-09-2004, 04:21 AM
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Glad to help.

Ian
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