efficient co2 reactors for larger tanks - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum

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post #16 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 04:28 PM
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Cause the water is coming out if the reactor then basically hitting a wall and causing extra turbulence. But I did look at your reactor and didn't notice a pipe inside of it.
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post #17 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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there is clear pvc tubing in there along with foam.

I don't think the split has as much to do with the bubbles as the co2 not fully dissolving in the water.

I've been running a cerges reactor on my 20g, and before that a 55g, for years. I do think that the smaller filter I'm using is taller than this one, which i'm sure helps out a ton. the rex griggs i built for my 55g never cut it and it was twice as tall. I think my first step is to see if my pH is dropping with the co2 on. then if it isn't, probably look into having this one t'd into the outflow and be another direction for the water to travel before heading to the outlets.

if it is dropping the pH i might just stuff the reactor with polyfill and see if that breaks down the bubbles more. at the very least it'll polish the water as well.
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post #18 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 04:40 PM
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Where is the co2 line going in the reactor? Can't really see it from the pictures.
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post #19 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gus6464 View Post
Where is the co2 line going in the reactor? Can't really see it from the pictures.
as mentioned, it going in is not in the pics. I have it going in after the threaded joint just prior to the reactor itself
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post #20 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scapegoat View Post
I've tried both Cerges and Rex Grigg style reactors on a 55g tank. I've found the Cerges works better, is more efficient, and over all much less work building. If not a little more costly because you're buying a commercial product.

For my 125g w/ 40g sump I naturally chose to go with a Cerges stlye reactor using: http://www.lowes.com/pd_89378-59019-...t=water+filter as the base.

Easily enough, water goes in, water goes out. I tapped the PCV going into this for my co2 line, and currently have some sponge filter media inside it, along with clear PVC tube inside.

Currently, I get a TON of microbubbles. I blame the flow rate of my pump, which i believe is a rated 1800gph fluval submersible. But i also wonder if the cerges reactor is efficient enough for a tank of this size with a pump rated at that?

After HOURS of the co2 blasting into the tank, my drop checker remains blue. Which leads me to believe that all those micro bubbles mean that the co2 isnt dissolving, but just being shoved into the tank.

My next step, i think, is going to be shoving pillow stuffing into the reactor as well and hope that is enough to break the co2 into finer bubbles before exiting the tank.
if they are micro bubbles. they are dissolving. small bubbles in 125G worth of water is way more surface area than the half gallon of a cerge reactor

i'd check the overflow and sump and make sure ur not gurgling tons of water and sucking in tons of air into ur sump through the overflow.. my 75 gallon uses a straight mist and is wayyy more efficient than a reactor.. response time is faster as well to co2
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post #21 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by scapegoat View Post
pic is slightly older than co2 being hooked up. I have it tapped into the pvc tube going into the reactor itself. so right after the threaded joint.



The sump is also drilled in the side, but would require reducing to a 1" instead of the 1.25" piping. I found the reduction was way too noisy!

it does bubble in the overflow, though not terribly. I do know that this is a major point of degassing of the co2. But i think a bigger reason for the drop checker not changing is the massive amounts of bubbles. I think the flow is too much to have them break down enough.

I was really hoping to seal the sump, and it is still a possibility. I'd just have to make some cuts to go around the piping, and probably use some weather seal or something around the holes.

that doesnt really matter though, because the vertical pipes you see at the T's allow air that the durso brings in, to escape.

here are older pics:





there isn't much splashing, fortunately. and the water degassing occurs in the sump, not the main tank. so the main tank should still have enough co2.

all that extra air being sucked in and the turbulent water down the drains KILLS co2 .. absolutely kills it.. the T is not allowing air to escape, water is pulling it down.. if u close off the open spot, u will generate a full siphon and drain the overflow pretty quickly.. if it was venting air.. it would just get force out the bottom

stepping up to larger diameter piping will sole much of ur co2 problems. OR switch to a herbie/ bean animal style setup
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post #22 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HD Blazingwolf View Post
all that extra air being sucked in and the turbulent water down the drains KILLS co2 .. absolutely kills it.. the T is not allowing air to escape, water is pulling it down.. if u close off the open spot, u will generate a full siphon and drain the overflow pretty quickly.. if it was venting air.. it would just get force out the bottom

stepping up to larger diameter piping will sole much of ur co2 problems. OR switch to a herbie/ bean animal style setup
I don't have space for the herbie/bean style, unless the intake and outtake were separated to one of the two overflows themselves. in which case my concern is then dead spots within the tank since the outlet is on a single side.

The T in the intake in the sump is allowing air to escape, because air is being let into the piping from the herbie style (which prevents a full siphon, and this prevents the massive gurgling sound as the full siphon breaks since the overflow can't supply water fast enough to keep a full siphon going)

I can also feel the air being push out of the 1/8" hole in the cap of the T down there.

the upturned exits prevent a lot of air from bubbling out in the sump itself.

I'll grab some video tonight to better explain what is going on. I realize the sump situation is not the best as far as CO2 injection is concerned.

I appreciate everyone helping me trouble shoot this.
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post #23 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 06:15 PM
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ur best bet then is sealing the sump.. but i would like to see the video to see where air is comming out at
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post #24 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 06:23 PM
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Co2 and sumps can work just takes some trial and error.

Try some glad press and seal over the top of your sump in the immediate and see if it helps, before you spend money on getting a lid cut etc.

Hd will argue to the death with me but I still say a full siphon with a back is the best way to go, but using large diameter pipe helps to, overall your try to create the minimal amount of turbulence.

I bet that sealing the sump up would definitely be the best place to start

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post #25 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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post #26 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by HD Blazingwolf View Post
ur best bet then is sealing the sump.. but i would like to see the video to see where air is comming out at
i did something similar to this

http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/at...9&d=1073767279

the bubbles are a lot bigger without that there. Since the durso style pulls air in the keep a full siphon from starting, without that and the upturned outlet I was getting big bubbles in the outlet.

If i could do this again i'd probably have purchased a non-drilled tank and drilled the back myself and set up for a bean style
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post #27 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-02-2013, 10:03 PM
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i use a rex reactor on my 125g and it works flawlessly. I have it inline with my FX5. very minimal flow loss noted.

I have NO micro bubbles. My co2 comes on an hour prior to the lights coming on and my drop checker in nearly yellow by lights on.

I used 3" PVC and the length of the reactor is roughly 36" tall. And it was cheap to build.


Just another option for you.






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post #28 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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a rex griggs style is an option. I don't like them though, take up too much room.

Last night I stuffed my reactor with filtration sponge and polyfill. it took a lot longer to get the air out of it, so i'm rather confident that it'll work better with co2 injection. I'll be testing the pH when i get home, turning everything on, then testing pH again every 15 minutes.

I've an idea for another sort of reactor in my head that somewhat combines the two. I may have to pick up some 3" PVC to play with.
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post #29 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 03:47 PM
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Have you thought of using both? Using the rex grigg style reactor with the cerges, inline one after the other, if you have a strong enough pump.

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post #30 of 54 (permalink) Old 07-03-2013, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Have you thought of using both? Using the rex grigg style reactor with the cerges, inline one after the other, if you have a strong enough pump.
that isn't an entirely pleasant idea.
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