Fluval FX5 Canister Filter? - Page 7 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #91 of 112 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 08:18 PM
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I hate to be "that guy" but all those fittings with their reductions and T's and etc are going to dramatically reduce the output of the FX5. This is with an out-of-the-box flow rate of about 600 gph. Generally it's recommended that you have as straight as possible flow from the intake to the output of these filters. This is why you see people making separate reactor loops with their own pumps rather than attaching all of their ancillary components to the filter itself.

If you have to use the FX5 output for your attachments, at least use 1" pipe and as few elbows, T's, Y's, and reducers as possible (IE: none). There are charts and formulas online that can help you understand better if you would like. The manifold idea is pretty and all, but putting it on the FX5 is problematic without supplemental pumping.

Just my .02

Cheers

http://www.hydromatic.com/Residentia..._headloss.aspx

Last edited by m00se; 04-22-2013 at 08:35 PM. Reason: derped on the gpm - should be gph
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post #92 of 112 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 08:30 PM
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Glad to have your .02.

If you do it this way (see pic) then there is a 1" bypass available if you open the valves. When i open the bypass (which is usually closed in order to push more water through the devices), I get slightly more flow, but either way, the flow is very strong. The loops are in parallel, which should reduce flow much less than if they were in series.

Totally agree, however: there will be some reduction in flow compared to running straight to and from the tank without any devices. In my experience it is not a large reduction in flow, so there is likely some other problem causing the lack of flow in the OP's situation.
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post #93 of 112 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 08:37 PM
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Fluval FX5 Canister Filter?

Quote:
Originally Posted by m00se View Post
I hate to be "that guy" but all those fittings with their reductions and T's and etc are going to dramatically reduce the output of the FX5. This is with an out-of-the-box flow rate of about 600 gpm. Generally it's recommended that you have as straight as possible flow from the intake to the output of these filters. This is why you see people making separate reactor loops with their own pumps rather than attaching all of their ancillary components to the filter itself.

If you have to use the FX5 output for your attachments, at least use 1" pipe and as few elbows, T's, Y's, and reducers as possible (IE: none). There are charts and formulas online that can help you understand better if you would like. The manifold idea is pretty and all, but putting it on the FX5 is problematic without supplemental pumping.

Just my .02

Cheers

http://www.hydromatic.com/Residentia..._headloss.aspx
The manifold is 1" allowing full flow, even better than using the ribbed hosing that comes with the filter. The path of the 1" section is pretty close to a direct path. The reductions only go to the equipment which allows for better operation, by reducing flow and allowing water to spend more time in the heater and more co2 dissolved.

With that being said, i have noticed since switching to this method more flow than using the original ribbed hosing from the filter. Also a smaller bubble count from the co2. I wouldn't switch back

Just my $.02

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post #94 of 112 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 08:40 PM
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Ayup, that's the way to do it. You also have the added benefit of the additive diameter of all the pipe combined to offset the 90 angles. It's amazing how little disruption in flow can have on the overall efficiency of a pump! The other damndest thing is that hose barbs are also reducers by virtue of how they're designed. I never quite understood that. So I have a 1" hose barb. It fits in a 1" ID hose. That effectively just made my 1" hose 3/4" now. Huh? Brilliant. And on it goes!
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post #95 of 112 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 09:25 PM
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Re: Fluval FX5 Canister Filter?

Quote:
Originally Posted by m00se View Post
I hate to be "that guy" but all those fittings with their reductions and T's and etc are going to dramatically reduce the output of the FX5. This is with an out-of-the-box flow rate of about 600 gph. Generally it's recommended that you have as straight as possible flow from the intake to the output of these filters. This is why you see people making separate reactor loops with their own pumps rather than attaching all of their ancillary components to the filter itself.

If you have to use the FX5 output for your attachments, at least use 1" pipe and as few elbows, T's, Y's, and reducers as possible (IE: none). There are charts and formulas online that can help you understand better if you would like. The manifold idea is pretty and all, but putting it on the FX5 is problematic without supplemental pumping.

Just my .02

Cheers

http://www.hydromatic.com/Residentia..._headloss.aspx
I actually did a test on my setup before permanent installation. I'm running at about 400gph. 2/3rds it's maximum output. I also tested it the way fluval intended it to be installed...it runs at just over 500gph. So even totally stock it doesn't run at full capacity. IMO, it's due to the ribbed hose... Which I made up for by replacing with smooth vinyl.

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post #96 of 112 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amberoze View Post
I actually did a test on my setup before permanent installation. I'm running at about 400gph. 2/3rds it's maximum output. I also tested it the way fluval intended it to be installed...it runs at just over 500gph. So even totally stock it doesn't run at full capacity. IMO, it's due to the ribbed hose... Which I made up for by replacing with smooth vinyl.

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yeah that ribbed hosing is awful, even before switching to the manifold I swapped it out for vinyl.

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post #97 of 112 (permalink) Old 04-22-2013, 10:46 PM
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Re: Fluval FX5 Canister Filter?

When I was testing mine before I installed it, I ran 5 gallons in 54 24 seconds. That's with the white foam and the center media with ceramic noodles. Stock hose.

Last edited by m00se; 04-23-2013 at 11:30 PM. Reason: Good catch WheeledGoat!
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post #98 of 112 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 02:26 PM
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There certainly are some VERY ingenious people here and I'm really impressed to see what people are doing. I would rather use 2 canisters and add some power heads in the tank to keep the water moving. The other thing is to under stock the tank and do more water changes. Water changes are the best maintenance you can do for a tank, IMO.



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post #99 of 112 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m00se View Post
When I was testing mine before I installed it, I ran 5 gallons in 54 seconds. That's with the white foam and the center media with ceramic noodles. Stock hose.

=333 gal/hr, wow! you're talking about the fx5 still? a third of their rated 925? how optimistic of them! I'm going to start taking a hard look at this ribbed hosing on my 206 - maybe there's hope after all!
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post #100 of 112 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 09:05 PM
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I'm sure you could get rating that if the canister was 100% empty with real short hoses :P
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post #101 of 112 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WheeledGoat View Post
=333 gal/hr, wow! you're talking about the fx5 still? a third of their rated 925? how optimistic of them! I'm going to start taking a hard look at this ribbed hosing on my 206 - maybe there's hope after all!
It is a little more complicated. The pump in the FX5 is rated at 925 GPH, but that is without hooking it up to the filter, so not really a useful number. The claimed filter circulation is 563 GPH, but even that is without any media in the filter (ie, water flowing through the empty canister).
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post #102 of 112 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WheeledGoat View Post
=333 gal/hr, wow! you're talking about the fx5 still? a third of their rated 925? how optimistic of them! I'm going to start taking a hard look at this ribbed hosing on my 206 - maybe there's hope after all!
im pretty sure most filters list gph without any media. but listing the pump gph off the canister filter is pretty misleading imo.

i think im going to give this a try sometime, thanks ETK this is a great idea. i have a fx5 on my 125 and prob wont mess with that one. i will prob get a fx6 or the give one of the CFS a try. the lower flow is actually ok with me as it will be going on a 75g dutch style.

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post #103 of 112 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 11:05 PM
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When building manifolds, spray bars, outlet nozzles or whatever, the other thing to consider, rather than using a 90 degree elbow to make a 90 degree turn, use two 45 degree elbows together...I cut 1" PVC to the exact length I need and then glue two 45 degree elbows together...it does not slow down the flow like a 90 degree elbow does...yes it takes up a little more room but in the end it creates better flow. I purchased some hose through an industrial hose supplier and it is smooth on the inside and ribbed on the outside with a plastic Helix coil...this stuff is super flexible and the 1" hose has a 1" 180 degree bend radius....Awesome stuff. The stock FX5 hose is flexible but with the ribs it does collect gunk on the inlet side and reduces flow rate over time.

here is the link to the hose I purchased part number...G941W...it is considered Water Suction hose

http://www.greenlinehose.com/_pdf/hose/2.Water.pdf
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post #104 of 112 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 11:10 PM
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Wow, that is some serious stuff. Thanks for the link -- I know I will be replacing the ribbed tubing some time.

Also, i like the idea of using two 45s instead of a 90.
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post #105 of 112 (permalink) Old 04-23-2013, 11:13 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone, all great info. My tank been sitting empty for 4 months. I kinda wish I would have just went with sump like my old setup. That was easy compared to trying to figure out this canister mess. Getting to the point I don't even want to bother with this tank anymore.
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