Changing an Aquatek Stock Needle Valve - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 04:08 AM Thread Starter
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Changing an Aquatek Stock Needle Valve

Has anyone tried to replace the stock needle valve on the Aquatek CO2 regulators? I've noticed that over time mine needs a little bit of an adjustment so I was wondering if there were any quality needle valves out there that will fit this regulator (I have a newer model with adjustable working pressure). I would think that replacing the needle valve and adjusting the working pressure would help combat some of the end of tank dump that a lot of people experience. So hopefully your suggestions will help others upgrade their economical regulators into something suitable for long term use.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 07:28 PM
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In think you're gonna end up going your own on this one. Let me know what you figure our. I know it can't be done on the Milwaukee regs because they use a thread pattern that isn't standard.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 10:20 PM
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Wondered about this as well. I've been searching some but haven't found any info. I just got their paintball setup going this week and that needle valve is not at all precision.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 11:25 PM
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Can you give us a close up picture of your needle valve, I have a similar one that I removed from a DICI, maybe the threads are the same.

What bps are you trying to get? How does it change? You have to wait a bit after you set it , turn it and set it and wait 10 - 15 second to see the change.



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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankee View Post
Has anyone tried to replace the stock needle valve on the Aquatek CO2 regulators? I've noticed that over time mine needs a little bit of an adjustment so I was wondering if there were any quality needle valves out there that will fit this regulator (I have a newer model with adjustable working pressure). I would think that replacing the needle valve and adjusting the working pressure would help combat some of the end of tank dump that a lot of people experience. So hopefully your suggestions will help others upgrade their economical regulators into something suitable for long term use.

Thanks!
The easiest solution would be to just run a needle valve in-line after the current one. You could use anything you wanted.

FWIW, the part you have to match the a new valve to is 1/8NPT. Really common... A Fabco NV-55-18 is 1/8NPT and all you'd need is a 1/8 hex nipple to connect it to the solenoid. Just put a 1/8 barb fitting on the other end of the Fabco and you're done.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-07-2013, 11:37 PM
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Oldpunk is the man. That's a fantastic Idea.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpunk78 View Post
The easiest solution would be to just run a needle valve in-line after the current one. You could use anything you wanted.

FWIW, the part you have to match the a new valve to is 1/8NPT. Really common... A Fabco NV-55-18 is 1/8NPT and all you'd need is a 1/8 hex nipple to connect it to the solenoid. Just put a 1/8 barb fitting on the other end of the Fabco and you're done.
It's the simple things that get overlooked.
Thanks
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 12:11 AM
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What about this guy?

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/details/?R=4A788

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 12:22 AM
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A lot of people have trouble getting the components separated. If that's the case, or if you didn't want to bother, just go with a simple upgrade. Get a basic Fabco NV-55 and two 10-32 NPT to 1/8" barbs and run it inline. Keep the stock valve all the way open. You can even keep the stock bubble counter if you like.

However, I'm of the opinion that when it's time to upgrade a single component on those prebuilt units, it's time to upgrade the entire thing. I guarantee that even if you upgrade the nv, you're still going to be unhappy with the rig.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldpunk78 View Post
The easiest solution would be to just run a needle valve in-line after the current one. You could use anything you wanted.

FWIW, the part you have to match the a new valve to is 1/8NPT. Really common... A Fabco NV-55-18 is 1/8NPT and all you'd need is a 1/8 hex nipple to connect it to the solenoid. Just put a 1/8 barb fitting on the other end of the Fabco and you're done.
Great information here. Thanks a lot! I will shop around a bit after I try to yank the stock one off. So the NV is a quality needle valve? It seems reasonably priced. I'll run it inline if I can't get it out.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yankee View Post
Great information here. Thanks a lot! I will shop around a bit after I try to yank the stock one off. So the NV is a quality needle valve? It seems reasonably priced. I'll run it inline if I can't get it out.
Yes, the NV-55(and -18) are both decent needle valves.

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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevmo911 View Post
A lot of people have trouble getting the components separated. If that's the case, or if you didn't want to bother, just go with a simple upgrade. Get a basic Fabco NV-55 and two 10-32 NPT to 1/8" barbs and run it inline. Keep the stock valve all the way open. You can even keep the stock bubble counter if you like.

However, I'm of the opinion that when it's time to upgrade a single component on those prebuilt units, it's time to upgrade the entire thing. I guarantee that even if you upgrade the nv, you're still going to be unhappy with the rig.
I agree. I'm trying to make this regulator last as long as it can before I have to upgrade it, though. I bought this one with my very first planted tank and it hasn't done me wrong yet except the needle valve seems to slip every once in a while - I tested this by marking where I set it and measured how far it moved in 2 weeks (it took 2 weeks for it to move a significant distance and change the outflow). For me, a simple fix like this seems to be my best option at the moment. I'm going to look into a nicer reg once I move to my graduate program in August.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
Yes, the NV-55(and -18) are both decent needle valves.
Awesome! Very affordable. I can look for the fittings at ACE I image (the hex nipple and barbs seems expensive online with shipping).
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 02:30 PM
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^ ace won't have the 10-32 barbs. I'm sure one of us could hook you up though.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-08-2013, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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^ ace won't have the 10-32 barbs. I'm sure one of us could hook you up though.
That'd be great! I'll be traveling for the next month so I will write your name down and get back to you when I'm capable of getting shipments.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-18-2013, 07:57 PM
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Hello Yankee,

have you manage to change the needle valve on this regulator ?
i might be on the same boat ... but i was planning to get it to co2 manifold to split the line. I can't just use the prebuild manifold as i have space restrictions. are you using 1/8" NPT needle falve ?
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