how much weight can a 10-32 UNF Male Brass Pipe Adapter hold as it will be place on my setup picture shown below... i am using this adapter it is a 1/8" female npt x 10-32 UNF male brass adapter
P.S. 1/8" x 10-32 UNF adapter - if any one knows where to get one for cheap as i see right now its $5.25 USD ea shipped... any one knows where i can get one for cheaper? (homedepot and lowes do not have them... looked local but cant seem to find any on carrying them)
this will fit on my clippard manifold - here is a photo:
i will be replacing my old solenoid and i will be adding this as a replacement and i was wondering do you thing with that adapter will hold all this weigh of my setup? look here photo:
so can i just build a manifold that has the in-port/out-port a 1/8npt? and drill the holes on top like the manifold above for the solenoid, will that help keep things in place and working the way it should...
Rather than fight and wonder if it will hold, why not add a bit of tubing between the units and mount them solidly at each point where you need them?
I like to have my adjustments at each tank and where I can reach them easily without having to crawl through a bunch of other stuff. It will just take some different adapters but it does spread the load.
well i wanted something like a parelle setup with everything can be in one place as its not like i will be messing with it all day every day... so after about 3 days i got it dial in and now it sits the way it does... like someone told me... if everything is good why change it
Let the Pro do it ... rookie shouldn't play with something that can kill them.
Stainless steel is your only pick ^^
not really, what i am using is not copper so how can that be dangerous? its solid brass lead free pipe fittings... it wouldnt be a good idea on a SW tank but i'm using it on FW so no worrys... beside i dont see why SW or FW matter's as it wont be touching water anyways...
i already bought the clippard solenoid and the manifold... wanted something less hot sort of speak....
and why not stick with my solenoid now? lol thats an easy one... i dont trust it being on a timer xD the stock spring to keep the solenoid close got to hot and wear off in 10 mins... CRAP stuff dont go cheap unless u want crap stuff, learn it the hand way... so i took it apart as the stock spring cant even hold back a 15psi without a leak... i open it up and took a clicking pen spring... and then wrap it around the valve on the solenoid as a replacement... so fair it can hold back a 40psi no problem... let say its on a timer and i am not home and it wears out or leaks bla bla bla and lights go out... and then guess what... co2 flood and die shrimps... so now u know why i dont trust it... a replacement is a better option... as of right now i only run it manually by plugging it in when i am home and when i know i am around when the lights are still on, when i leave i unplug the solenoid and turn off the 5lb tank valve... better to be on the safe side then sorry...
I've broken the threads off of several of those #10-32 parts by simply bumping them or tightening them too tight. They are just too fragile for me. I have no plans to use them again. I think that anyone that uses them would be wise to have some backup replacement parts and fittings. Added cost!
Heat and Burkert solenoids should not be an issue.
will look into doing so... thanks for the help also the burkert 2822 is that the lowest watt ? i guess the lower the watts the less heat it gives out as i heard... also is there one in a 12vdc or a 24vdc doesnt matter or play into any heat problems?