high pressure co2 lines/check valves - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-26-2012, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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high pressure co2 lines/check valves

hi guys, i'm running a UP atomizer. it seems to be working pretty well, but i bought a cheap check valve at the pet store and i'm getting a drip, even with zip ties on it for clamps. i'm running 40 psi line pressure to the atomizer. once the controller shuts it down i get water forced to the check valve from the water pressure coming out of my filter.

so i need better stuff so i don't have leaks. i seem to remember seeing a brass check valve somewhere. do i need to change line? i'm running the line given with my milwaukee regulator.

also, when my controller kicks on i get such a release in gas it blows the water out of my bubbler into the co2 line and empties it out over a short period. how do i fix that?
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 05:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limige View Post
also, when my controller kicks on i get such a release in gas it blows the water out of my bubbler into the co2 line and empties it out over a short period. how do i fix that?
a picture?
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 05:11 AM
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At 40psi I would get a better check valve like brass, they due make some plastic check valves that are made for co2 also. You can fine these check valves sold here in the power sellers or on ebay, or best bet yet http://greenleafaquariums.com/co2-resistant-tubing.html
For your bubble counter I use mineral oil and fill only half way , I have not replace mine for a year yet.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 05:34 AM
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I'm experimenting with the up inline on one of my tanks. The sudden kick of pressure when the solenoid opens shouldn't empty the bubble counter. Are you sure you didn't accidentally hook it up backward when you put the new part in? Is the diffuser located at a lower level than the bc?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 05:39 AM
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Also with these inclines the check valve must be located after the b.c. closer to the devise so as not to fill all the tubing and b.c. when co2 goes off. I maybe silly but I always keep one before and after the b.c.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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the atomizer is at about the bottom of my tank. check valve is about 4" below that and the tank with the regulator and bubble counter are on the floor about 1 ft below it all with some extra tubing looped.

whats happening is the check valve doesn't work the greatest because the line looses pressure which is what causes the burst in bubbles.
the check valve doesn't shut off till the water hits it. as long as the co2 is pressured behind the valve it'll bleed that pressure off till the bottle side is slightly below the water pressure.

i thought about switching to an oil but wasn't sure if there was anything else i could really do. the UP atomizer requires a pretty stout pressure to operate at all being a membrane.

i found this on page 2, i'm thinking of ordering it
http://www.marinedepot.com/Dennerle_...FICOCV-vi.html

i wont need zip ties since it has clamps.

now i could have the atomizer upside down, directions weren't clear. looked to me like the co2 was supposed to go in the top but that was backwards from what i thought. i thought it should draw the co2 in but i figured maybe they wanted more of a back flow design.




does anyone else have issues with the pressure causing line leaks?
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 04:49 PM
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I've been using that same check valve from Dennerle for 2 or 3 years now. It has outlasted any brass check valve I've owned and has those nice fittings to keep the tubing securely attached. Check around online and you might find it for less. I think I paid around $16 or so but that was a while back.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 06:40 PM
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I'm a huge believer in brass check valves. I've tried plastic ones and in my experience they are worthless. Over the years I've used 4 of them and everyone one would let water past. I finally went to the industrial supplier McMaster-carr and bought some good quality brass ones. These work with a spring loaded plunger and haven't leaked a drop of water yet.


http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pH...rotameterc.jpg
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 07:29 PM
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no water pass to the other side of the check valve, that means the check valve does its job.

leak at where the air hose meets check valve hose barb, the problem is the air hose.
regular vinyl air hose normally gets harden in 2-3 years, under UV, even faster.
and normal fish store quality vinyl air hose has low working pressure rating(burst rating is about 2-3times of the working pressure), use it with 40 psi of air you are actually pushing the working pressure limit.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-30-2012, 03:31 AM Thread Starter
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i'm using the black co2 line that came with the regulator kit. any idea what load that is designed for?
i dont' think its the hose its the lack of good sealing clamp. that dennerle check valve has a nice setup to seal the hose so it wont leak. just wasn't sure if the housing works at the higher pressures.
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 06:05 AM Thread Starter
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just hooked up a fresh tank with the dennerle valve, we'll see how it goes.

anybody else have issues with running 35-40 psi and emptying the bubble counter?
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-26-2013, 04:57 AM
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I'm new to this and keep having that problem (not to bump an old thread needlessly, but this sounds exactly like what I've been dealing with)

My 75 gallon High Tech Tank:http://tinyurl.com/n7zp47m
My 10 gallon High Tech Tank:http://tinyurl.com/qyf7s5o
My 5.5 gallon nano College Dorm Tank:http://tinyurl.com/p54uupj
Mom's Spec V:http://tinyurl.com/qjt3rw2
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