Dual Stage Regulator Repair - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-30-2012, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Dual Stage Regulator Repair

Hello all,

I recently acquired a used fisher dual stage regulator and have a question about repair... I'm not sure if it even needs it but where would I turn if I needed to find replacement parts? I've seen rebuild kits for single stage regulators but nothing for dual stage. Can someone point me in the right direction?
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-30-2012, 11:39 PM
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A local welding shop would be able to point you in the right direction. If not, there are a couple online places but that will cost more.

What would Honey Badger do?
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-31-2012, 01:00 AM
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what is wrong with the regulator?

better to scrap it if it is internal damage, repair bill is high.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-31-2012, 01:37 AM
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^ not necessarily. Figure about $50 for parts and labor. You pretty much have a new unit again. Again, if you can find a replacement cheaper... Also it might depend what type of reg you have. I wouldn't personally just toss a htp-500 or something because a diaphragm has a leak.

What would Honey Badger do?
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-31-2012, 01:39 AM
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For that type reg, I would ask around at propane dealers for info on whether it is practical to repair. It's possible they will have some used regs for sale.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-31-2012, 06:52 AM
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if it is a old model fisher scientific regulator, too old, that thing is probably a re-branded Matheson model 8 regulator and was made in the 60's.
try to avoid Matheson model-8, used are well worn up and fail rate is high, CGA 320 nipple is Old Harris standard 1/2-27 thread, really hard to find, and the repair kit/parts are virtually non exist.

for the most popular welding regulators, parts are easy to find, but still, repair cost for the regulator is at least $75 to fix internal problem(local airgas). For high value regulators, if it is not the current model(out of warranty), it is better to scrap because high cost to repair. Repair kit/parts are expensive and have to be done by professionals, a couple hours labor charge will bring the repair bill up.
That is why I saw a a couple barrels full of defective high value regulators at local Airgas, where I got the CO2 tank swap. Those defective regulators were simply discarded and would be eventually scrapped for metal.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-31-2012, 02:25 PM
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What Bettatail says goes for lots of things. It is just cheaper to throw them out than to pay for repairs. If you can find the parts at the right price and if you do the work yourself, there is a chance it will pay. But that has lots of "ifs" in it.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-31-2012, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all of the responses everybody! Like I said, I'm not even sure if it needs repairs, but I just wanted to know where to turn in case I did need help. I'll post a picture of the beauty tonight. It's a fisher scientific but I couldn't tell you a model number.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
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Click image for larger version

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ID:	53357Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1346630782.665492.jpg
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There she is!
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 12:18 AM
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Yeah, that's an old Matheson 8. If it's broken now (gauges can be replaced pretty cheaply), it might not be worth trying to get repaired. I've bought several Matheson 8's at $30 shipped or less. They're pretty common.

The good news is that if it's not actually broken, there's probably nothing that you'll do to it, given normal use for our purposes, that will kill it. And at least somebody took the time to shine it up

As for a CGA320 nipple, it's possible they're hard to find, but the first place I checked - Western Enterprises - had them. It's a 1/2-27 thread, and was a couple bucks more than a standard 1/4" NPT thread CGA320 nipple ...which bought the total to a whopping 6 bucks or so at my local AirGas (which is a Western Enterprises retailer). Here's the website if anybody's interested: http://www.westernenterprises.com/en...a_fittings.php ...the 1/2"-27 nipple is about 1/3 the way down the page. Model #CO-7.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 12:27 AM
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Yours is the same as matheson model 8, the cga 320 stem thread is 1/2-27, western enterprise part number for this stem is WE-CO-7, good luck.

Picture is the same regulator, spent days worked on it and finally tested, found out it was slowly leaking due to the internal damage. Same faith as other two Matheson model-8 I had, really slow leak could barely notice, but no matter how small the problem is, couldn't use them and no way to fix. They are all in the junk box now, waiting to be scrapped.


Last edited by Bettatail; 09-03-2012 at 01:32 AM. Reason: grammar
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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This might seem obvious, but how were you able to tell it was leaking internally?
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PlantedRich View Post
For that type reg, I would ask around at propane dealers for info on whether it is practical to repair. It's possible they will have some used regs for sale.

Send the reg to Bettatail. He should get it fix at reasonable price.
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herns View Post
Send the reg to Bettatail. He should get it fix at reasonable price.

no, testing and to identify the problem is not fun, takes hours, still, there is no way to fix if it is internal damage, no parts.

did successfully fix a couple Victor VTS regulator though, diaphragm and poppet valve damage. Have the tools to open the regulators and parts to replace the fault.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-03-2012, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jap783 View Post
This might seem obvious, but how were you able to tell it was leaking internally?
follow the link in my signature, from there you can check if your regulator is functional.
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