All of my piping is 1" pvc, it is sealed with purple primer and clear cement. I have found that when you pre assemble everything it is best to use a sharpie and on every joint put a line on the end of the pipe rolling up onto the T, 90, coupling, etc. If you've done this it will make it easier when it's time to make it permanent.
Here is my CPR CS-102 1200gph overflow with two 1" bulk heads draining into 1" pvc which feeds the sump. This also has a diy screen over the slots as my bloodfins liked to ride the rapids in the overflow.
Here's my 29g sump filtering my 125g. First chamber has loofas for course filtration with filter floss on top for fine filtration. That chamber overflows into the bio balls, from there is flows under to the ceramic media. You can also see the return line above and behind the sump with the gate valve to regulate flow.
Here is where my 800w titanium heater, and 1350gph return pump that feeds into the external griggs reactor (no media atm). Also in this area is the sponge for my ac110 (in storage) thermometer and bio wheels from an old tank used to cycle this one.
Here is my reactor, 10lb tank and ferts.
Here is my 3/4" cross (idk why I didn't get a T?) capped on bottom with 1" 45 elbows. Creates good flow and spreads the co2 around nicely
Here is the 1" diy pvc overflow that has proven to be awesome. It has a sponge I found and spread open to fit the opening.
It was originally used in the 125g but was far outpaced by the 1350. Well it works great on here, and has self primed every time I turn the pump off for cleaning.
more of the overflow, there is a check valve on the end of that hose. has not built one bubble yet in 3 months.
Now here is the 20g sump filtering for my 55g turtle tank. Now the baffle washed out the other day. I guess I didn't goop enough silicone on there, kinda wish I had just gone with glass to begin with but it's a little late for all that. I have something in mind to improvise in the tank but having a hard time locating. Anyway the sump has bio balls, jager heater and marine land 350gph return pump. This return has a ball valve instead as I couldn't find a slip on (to cement in place) gate valve. Regulating flow has proved to be difficult but it's getting close.
heres the return pipe coming in 3/4 down the tank
any questions please ask.