Official sump pimp club. - Page 15 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #211 of 234 (permalink) Old 05-15-2012, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dj2606 View Post
I'm still in the learning stage =), I setup a breeding rack of 8 20L using 2 sumps. Ran into a lot of snags and had to figure out ways to fix them, good news I think after setting up the tanks if any plumbing issue in the house to arise I could easily fix them .



So you have 2 ball valves on the return from the pump. One going in line to the display that stays open (until you do a water change, then you close this one). A second ball valve which runs to a drain line you have go out your window (this one stays closed until you do a water change and open it to drain the water out)?

I wonder if there is a another way to do this with just one valve. One that can switch the routing of water, to either the display or the drain.

No, I have two returns to the tank, one on each side. I close one and use the other to drain for WC's.

You could certainly split your return with a T, put a ball valve on the one to use for a drain and just close it until you use it. I would recommend putting one on the return line though so you can adjust the return rate to your system. Sometime the pump on full is too much and you need to adjust. Using a pump like a magdrive, they are designed to work fine with being restricted by a ball valve and use less power when they do.

20g platy, , 2 x 10g shrimp, 3 x 20g shrimp, 7.5g shrimp and 1 great dane/mastiff puppy.

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My Tanks and my shrimps
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post #212 of 234 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 09:59 AM
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I want to be a sump pimp! i have an 80 gallon 3/8 acrylic sump with a 35 gallon trickle system. pimp me up!
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post #213 of 234 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 10:24 AM
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Am i #19?
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post #214 of 234 (permalink) Old 10-03-2012, 01:05 PM
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Am i #19?
I think #17 was skipped unless I missed it. 19 works though!

Sent from a dark corner in my happy place

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post #215 of 234 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 12:08 AM
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sweet

sump pimp #19
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post #216 of 234 (permalink) Old 05-06-2013, 08:20 PM
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Count me in. 75 gallon tank with an Eshopps WC-100 sump.

#22 - kseanm247

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post #217 of 234 (permalink) Old 09-18-2013, 10:08 PM
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Count me in as well. I just went through the pages and there isn't many pics of peoples sumps and tanks. Could people post some so other people can see how they have done their sump. I will take some today and post later.

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post #218 of 234 (permalink) Old 09-19-2013, 01:09 PM
JKS
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You can count me in

My all in one tank came with a sump not a trickle filter



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post #219 of 234 (permalink) Old 09-19-2013, 05:36 PM
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Here's my contribution

Constructed a sump to house foam filter blocks for a DBP 3L tank. The sump box was made from glass dividers and the glass top that came with the tank. This DIY project is what I call my "OTS Mattenfilter" (OTS-on the side).

Custom OTS filter for nano tank

Eheim Pimp #540 Finnex Member #11 ADA Gentleman #6 60F Club 12G Club 60P Club BeastMaster Project Tanks
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post #220 of 234 (permalink) Old 09-20-2013, 03:52 AM
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Nice, here is my sump



The overflow goes into the left where the bio balls are and from there goes through different coarse porat foam before heading back up through the return on the far right.

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post #221 of 234 (permalink) Old 09-20-2013, 03:54 AM
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Oh I have lids on my sump as well to help reduce evaporation and keep the heat in as well. Thinking of insulating the back and sides of the sump to help with heat as well.

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post #222 of 234 (permalink) Old 10-01-2013, 04:47 PM
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Whee clubs...this is my second sump build. #23 ?

In progress pics, but almost done.




Very much a budget build, and yes I know the return pump situation is 'less than ideal'. This is a 50G tank, going under a 125G display.
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post #223 of 234 (permalink) Old 11-03-2013, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys, it's been awhile but I did some updating to the OP.

Semper Fi
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post #224 of 234 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 05:32 AM Thread Starter
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Hey guys, I'm going to redo my big tank and I figure while I've got it down I might as well go ahead and do the sump as well.

I originally used plexiglas as dividers but those started washing out after a year or so. I'm thinking this time I will use glass dividers but I want to know of any tricks y'all used to make sure the silicone didn't wear out and give way over time.

I plan to redo my sump with a design similar to this:


Now this one has very little silicone around the dividers where mine had much more. Prob three coats and I used my fingers to work it into all the little nooks and cranny's to make sure it got in there good. I let it dry for 24 hours after each application. So what are your thoughts/tips/tricks?
TIA

Also does anyone know where I might be able to find any foam like in the pic?

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post #225 of 234 (permalink) Old 11-06-2013, 04:23 PM
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IIRC you can get the foam at places like Big Al's (LFS), or off amazon in big sheets/rolls.

I had no issues with silicone/acrylic - just used a lot. Be sure to let it cure for 48-72 hours minimum, most especially if you are really gooping it on. After 24 hours anything thicker than 1/4" will still be liquid on the bottom.

Note that the design you're showing - the first baffle is too high (well, no point in being that high). The water level in that first section will only get as high as the next baffle over.

Also, there's no 'dry' section to this, i.e. for a drip tray. Everything I've read (barrreport, here) indicates that freshwater sumps really benefit from a drip tray so you get more types of bacteria.

For mine, I have a higher first baffle (raised 2" off the bottom) than necessary - aesthetics, but a functional mistake. Note the second baffle (which touches the bottom of the sump) has the drip tray immediately flowing off the same height.

This design allows me to have a wet/dry sump with only two baffles. The drawback is that the entire unit must be sealed to reduce CO2 off-gassing.


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