How to build a co2 regulator [56k!] - Page 4 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #46 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 11:57 PM
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I'm sure once this is finished a mod can clean out the surplus chat & posts then stick it and this would be an outstanding resource for us at TPT and the greater internet aquatics hobbyist community.

Steve

45 gal tall high-tech : 2-23-12 update
Complete CO2 Leak Test : How to build a CO2 regulator

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post #47 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 12:09 AM
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Agree! Easy to get off the main topic and reason oldpunk kicked it off in the first place.
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post #48 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-24-2011, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
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Actually.... I totally forgot about the filter inserts and that some nipples come with them and some don't.

There was a reason I'm cramming the info into the first couple posts. lol these threads can get hard to pick all the info out of unless you do it like that.

I will be the first to admit I don't everything about regulators or building them. That's why forums are great though. A collective like this can produce a lot of great info. I will just keep sorting it out in the 1st couple posts so it doesn't get to the point where it's all scattered and conflicting.

@POTSHOT, I believe your Aiproducts unit already has a filter in the high pressure 'in' port.

What would Honey Badger do?

Last edited by oldpunk78; 10-24-2011 at 03:12 AM.
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post #49 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 04:53 PM
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Anybody can walk me through on how to install this piece to the Swagelok metering valve?

Swagelok # B-4-TA-1-2 (Male Tube Adapter, 1/4 in. Tube OD x 1/8 in. Male NPT)
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post #50 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 05:04 PM
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You need the 1/4 tubing nut and ferrules. Slide the adapter in and tighten nut to finger tight, then turn 1 1/4 turns with a wrench. Done.

*However* there are claims that ss on brass pressure connections can leak. So if that brass adapter is going onto a stainless steel metering valve, you might have issues. I suppose it's possible to use a brass nut and ferrules on the end of the ss valve, though there might be a reason I've never seen that done (other than aesthetics).
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post #51 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevmo911 View Post
You need the 1/4 tubing nut and ferrules. Slide the adapter in and tighten nut to finger tight, then turn 1 1/4 turns with a wrench. Done.

*However* there are claims that ss on brass pressure connections can leak. So if that brass adapter is going onto a stainless steel metering valve, you might have issues. I suppose it's possible to use a brass nut and ferrules on the end of the ss valve, though there might be a reason I've never seen that done (other than aesthetics).
Thanks, I will give it a shot when I get home.

Assuming the 1/4 tubing nut and ferrules is the one that usually come with the metering valve (small round nut & cone looking nut), correct?
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post #52 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 05:23 PM
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Yep. The two things you describe are the front and back ferrules. Best to find a pic rather than have me try to explain how they fit into the nut.
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post #53 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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There's a link explaining how to put them together under the tube fittings section on the first page.

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post #54 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-31-2011, 06:46 PM
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Got it. Thanks guys. I'll use the wrench to tighten it.

Source: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...-tube-fittings
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post #55 of 750 (permalink) Old 12-04-2011, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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This week I'm going to be adding more stuff. Most will be small things no one will notice.

In the assembly section I've added some photos of how to mount a bubble counter. I still need to add the commentary though.

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post #56 of 750 (permalink) Old 12-09-2011, 07:55 AM
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This is awesome oldpunk. I wanted a guide like this. I started with a diy paintball setup and found that the needle valve was finicky and always needs adjusting. I'm looking to upgrade and I was looking at the GLA primo system:
http://greenleafaquariums.com/comple...o2-system.html

'you get what you pay for' is so often true in this hobby but I have a sinking sensation that making the regulator as you proposed would get me the EXACT same product and save me $200. It makes sense since most of this is just hunks of metal.

I'm completely in the dark when it comes to CO2. Would you say the regulator in this guide is on par, better or worse than GLA's primo system? Is it even something that can be compared? We're looking mainly at needle valves and solenoids, right?
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post #57 of 750 (permalink) Old 12-10-2011, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tizzite View Post
This is awesome oldpunk. I wanted a guide like this. I started with a diy paintball setup and found that the needle valve was finicky and always needs adjusting. I'm looking to upgrade and I was looking at the GLA primo system:
http://greenleafaquariums.com/comple...o2-system.html

'you get what you pay for' is so often true in this hobby but I have a sinking sensation that making the regulator as you proposed would get me the EXACT same product and save me $200. It makes sense since most of this is just hunks of metal.
Some of the parts I used in the build I showed for reference are very similar but I don't believe it to be the "exact" same stuff. Orlando uses 'proprietary' nv-55's. I'm not sure what's so different about them though. I also don't think you'll save $200. More like $100 if you're a savoy shopper.
Quote:
I'm completely in the dark when it comes to CO2. Would you say the regulator in this guide is on par, better or worse than GLA's primo system? Is it even something that can be compared? We're looking mainly at needle valves and solenoids, right?
They are comparable. As far as general usage goes, you probably wouldn't notice a difference. GLA was using Burkerts for while while looking for a replacement for the now defunct Clippards. The Burkert solenoid is very comparable to the PeterPual solenoid they use now. The two needle valves are also very similar.

Now, when it comes to the actual regulator part, I believe that almost any industrial 2-stage is far superior to the Cornelius. I doubt anyone could argue with that either. You have to be careful to pick out the right one though. If you get really used one or a unit that regulates more than 125psi you would notice the Cornelius is actually easier to use for what we're trying to do with it..

What would Honey Badger do?
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post #58 of 750 (permalink) Old 12-17-2011, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
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Just curious as to if I've steered anyone wrong. Or if anyone has any un-answered questions I might be able to help with.

What would Honey Badger do?

Last edited by oldpunk78; 01-03-2012 at 11:37 AM.
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post #59 of 750 (permalink) Old 12-29-2011, 01:04 AM
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I do have one question. If I were to follow this guide exactly to a T but I wanted to use the Ideal needle valve instead of the Fabco, would there be any changes to parts I need for the regulator assembly and the bubble counter addition?
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post #60 of 750 (permalink) Old 12-29-2011, 01:36 AM Thread Starter
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For connecting the Ideal valve to the solenoid, you would need a 1/8 NPT hex nipple.

You would need to use an extra Clippard # 15036 (in the Ideal valve)for using the bubble counter in the same way. I could probably find a picture of what I'm talking about if that doesn't make sense.

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