How to build a co2 regulator [56k!] - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-02-2011, 08:08 PM
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I think this thread should be sticky.
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post #17 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-03-2011, 05:17 AM
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Oldpunk,
This is excellent and timely! I especially like all the pics of the fittings and such. It will help when trying to piece things together. I just got a new airproducts E12-244B as the first piece to my venture into CO2 injection. Ofcourse not knowing exactly what I'm doing, I discovered what the "350" at the end of the model number means. Now I have to replace the 350 nipple/nut with a 320. I could use some guidance with that so I don't screw anything up in the process.
One question regarding tightening the setscrew in the NV knob. Why is this setscrew needing to be tightened... normally comes loose or the knob is not initially attached ?
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post #18 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-03-2011, 06:06 AM
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It is just that the needle stem is pretty tight and stiff out of the factory, and sometimes when you turn it for the first time, the knob loses its grip on the stem because the knob is not very tight on the stem at all. To tighten that tiny screw, you will need a 1/16" allen wrench.

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post #19 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-03-2011, 06:25 AM
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How come you didn't do this write-up when I was a n00b Oldpunk? You and bettatail got too much time on your hands.... that's a good thing! haha Great information!
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post #20 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-03-2011, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POTSHOT View Post
Oldpunk,
This is excellent and timely! I especially like all the pics of the fittings and such. It will help when trying to piece things together. I just got a new airproducts E12-244B as the first piece to my venture into CO2 injection. Ofcourse not knowing exactly what I'm doing, I discovered what the "350" at the end of the model number means. Now I have to replace the 350 nipple/nut with a 320. I could use some guidance with that so I don't screw anything up in the process.
One question regarding tightening the setscrew in the NV knob. Why is this setscrew needing to be tightened... normally comes loose or the knob is not initially attached ?
I find using a big pair of Vise-Grips works well to remove the old CGA connection. Just be careful with the gauges - they are fragile and bend easily. You can get a cga-320 nut/nipple from a local welding shop/Airgas or online. maknwar sells them here on the forum too in the powerseller section.

Bill already answered the Fabco question. I was just snugging up that one screw because it was left a little loose by Fabco.

Nick - dude, we were newbs at the same time man... lol

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post #21 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-03-2011, 09:29 PM
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Thanks for the info on removing the old CGA and where to get a 320. Also for the tip on the Fabco knob. I wouldn't want to strip it right out of the box!
Keep it comin'... all good stuff for us noobs.
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post #22 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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Lots of pics added. I will begin explaining the process when time permits.

What would Honey Badger do?
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post #23 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 03:56 AM
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Those pics you added help a lot.

Neat layout. Easy to understand.
Great job!
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post #24 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 08:15 AM
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Nicely coming along. Pictures are da bomb

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Complete CO2 Leak Test : How to build a CO2 regulator

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post #25 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 09:09 AM
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I think my brain just exploded.

So the only question that is making it to the surface right now is ...

Quote:
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You have to ask yourself, do I want a regulator that is intended for precise delivery in a clean room or an industrial application or a regulator that was built with the intention of pressurizing a beer keg?
I am assuming that a reg intended to pressurize a beer keg is for some reason inferior as opposed to the other? What is the difference really? (obviously I am as green as one can get about anything to do with co2! lol)

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post #26 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 09:18 AM
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A single stage beer keg pressure regulator is not as precise as a dual stage laboratory grade gas regulator, but both will work for our purposes. However if you can get the better one for little to no extra expense, why not?

Steve

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Complete CO2 Leak Test : How to build a CO2 regulator

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post #27 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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^ Well put.

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post #28 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 12:30 PM
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Great write up!

Rebooting...

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post #29 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-13-2011, 12:28 AM
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How do I change a CGA on a brand new regulator, {is it lefty loosely}
What size deep socket will work for a 580 cga
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post #30 of 750 (permalink) Old 10-13-2011, 03:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Great write up!
Thank you, let's hope I finish it up soon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by inkslinger View Post
How do I change a CGA on a brand new regulator, {is it lefty loosely}
What size deep socket will work for a 580 cga
not sure... I don't have one laying around. I did have a 590 and its 11/16. Not sure how close the nipple is though. If its looseish a crescent wrench will probably work.

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