Metering(needle) valves selection for our CO2 pressurized system - Page 13 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #181 of 295 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
Thanks for the answer, but I thought that if you tried to connect a smaller load (say 167 mA) onto a power supply that is supplying 24V at 500 mA, then the actual voltage the solenoid is getting will be higher than 24V?

The 24V DC power adapter output voltage is 24V DC, not gonna change. the output current is pretty much depends on the device that connects to the adapter, for burkert solenoid, is 0.167A, means the actual current that the adapter supply to the solenoid is 0.167A, but the adapter can be a rated 0.5A, 1A, or more max current output.
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post #182 of 295 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 07:07 PM
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The 24V DC power adapter output voltage is 24V DC, not gonna change. the output current is pretty much depends on the device that connects to the adapter, for burkert solenoid, is 0.167A, means the actual current that the adapter supply to the solenoid is 0.167A, but the adapter can be a rated 0.5A, 1A, or more max current output.
Thank you, everything makes so much sense now... As I was confuse about A vs MA
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post #183 of 295 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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and I expect that a handful of clothespins could be made to perform with some ingenuity.
lol, I even had a full set of micro drill bits ready to make custom orifice/holes on the manifold that for the clippard mouse solenoid, but to make "needle" is another dimension that require much advanced tools and material, so I chicken out.
The Parker H3L is engineering marvel in the similar valves, its needle stem is not a small "needle" look just like the other metering valves, but a much huge one.
Even with this huge "needle", this valve has much smaller orifice size than most other metering valves, and the precision to enlarge the small orifice according/proportional to the turns, is remarkable.

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post #184 of 295 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you, everything makes so much sense now... As I was confuse about A vs MA
0.167A=167mA
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post #185 of 295 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 05:49 AM
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0.167A=167mA
Thanks to you, I found a epson 24VDC .8A from thrift store.
Just got my parker valve and waiting on my regulator I got for also a very good deal, Airgas Y12-215B. I like the stainless look but it's costly so I'll just do a semi brass fittings look.
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post #186 of 295 (permalink) Old 10-30-2012, 02:20 AM
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Since we're all about mixing oil and water by discussing solenoids in this metering valve thread, I am curious how others have done or plan to wire the Burkert 2822 with its two wire leads, into a neat little package. Is there another option outside of heat-shrink tubing? That will work just fine but I am curious to see if someone has come up with a better idea...


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post #187 of 295 (permalink) Old 10-30-2012, 03:12 AM
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Since we're all about mixing oil and water by discussing solenoids in this metering valve thread, I am curious how others have done or plan to wire the Burkert 2822 with its two wire leads, into a neat little package. Is there another option outside of heat-shrink tubing? That will work just fine but I am curious to see if someone has come up with a better idea...
I'm not sure what kind of connections the 2822 has, but if it has your typical prongs, you could use spade connectors along with some heat-shrink tubing and electrical tape.

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post #188 of 295 (permalink) Old 10-30-2012, 03:20 AM
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I'm not sure what kind of connections the 2822 has, but if it has your typical prongs, you could use spade connectors along with some heat-shrink tubing and electrical tape.
It has just two wires coming out of the coil housing. The cleanest way to wire it would be to just disassemble the whole thing and solder your own wires from your dc source inside the housing. Other than that, solder and shrink wrap.

What would Honey Badger do?
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post #189 of 295 (permalink) Old 10-30-2012, 03:25 AM
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I've messed around with a few methods. You can use butt splice connectors, or wire nuts (not pretty, but they work). And I know you were looking for something other than heat-shrink, but have you thought about using two sizes? One for each wire connection, and another, longer, larger size, to slide over both wires.

Soldering is probably the most sturdy connection, but I can't think of anything other than heat-shrink to cover it up.

As this is an issue I've struggled a lot with - what is the "prettiest" way to connect wires - I'd love to hear an electrician's suggestions.
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post #190 of 295 (permalink) Old 10-31-2012, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
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you can use male/female terminal blade connectors, with protection plastic seal.
it is easy to disconnect and good insulation, a good alternative but not a permanent type as the soldering & heat shrink wrap method.
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post #191 of 295 (permalink) Old 10-31-2012, 10:17 PM
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It has just two wires coming out of the coil housing. The cleanest way to wire it would be to just disassemble the whole thing and solder your own wires from your dc source inside the housing.
This sounds like the best move for a nice finished assembly. It's going to be a while before I get around to this, if anyone does so in the meantime pics would be smashing!


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post #192 of 295 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 10:07 PM
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Hey guys!I need little help wiring burkert 2822.How can I tell which wire from 24v DC power adapter goes to which solenoid wire?Thanks
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post #193 of 295 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 10:23 PM
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It doesn't matter. That's why they're not color coded.

What would Honey Badger do?
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post #194 of 295 (permalink) Old 11-01-2012, 10:58 PM
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Thanks oldpunk78!
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post #195 of 295 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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announce the burkert 2822 for a while now, and glad so many people got them.

the seller has less in stock, if you haven't get one, better get it before they disappear.
I believe no such deal will appear in years, this solenoid is really rare.

and the Parker H3L are still abundant, the seller did a good job stocking up so many and keep the price low.
just put some parts together to show the three way outputs with all Parker H3L, it is not a project and all parts are actually loose, the mouse solenoid and the split output block have been accounting for.
will make a system like this, don't need it but just want to make a nice system.
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