Cooling aquarium water - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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Cooling aquarium water

Hi guys,

my aquarium set is 76-78 and I realized that my water temperature rises to little over 80 today due to the weather last 3 days. Now I am concerned for the coming summer. I searched the web and came across some poor designs. am on a budget so what are you guys using what is an efficient method to lower temp 4-5.

Thansk
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 06:53 AM
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I've blown a fan across the top, and lowered the temp pretty well that way. I've done the frozen bottle thing, but nothing worked as good as that. Just a regular turbo fan. For the tanks up higher, I just set the fan on a desk next to the tank and angled the air to blow over the top.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SallImSayin View Post
I've blown a fan across the top, and lowered the temp pretty well that way. I've done the frozen bottle thing, but nothing worked as good as that. Just a regular turbo fan. For the tanks up higher, I just set the fan on a desk next to the tank and angled the air to blow over the top.
Thanks. My tank is a 10G and I have a glass cover on the top but the back has a 2 inc opening where I have 2 Aqueon-10 quitflow. Will the fan work if I set it to blow between the HOBs. from back to fron instead from side to side?
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Busybeeerc View Post
Thanks. My tank is a 10G and I have a glass cover on the top but the back has a 2 inc opening where I have 2 Aqueon-10 quitflow. Will the fan work if I set it to blow between the HOBs. from back to fron instead from side to side?
well take odd the cover and like @SallImSayin suggest..
1. place a turbo fan
2. put a Frozen water bottle in ur tank (although it is not permanent and u need to frequently change it)
3. open ur air conditioner
and check this awesome KING of DIY guy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSvklmqHKB8&t=456s
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Last edited by richie_brave; 05-19-2017 at 08:29 AM. Reason: .
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by richie_brave View Post
well take odd the cover and like @SallImSayin suggest..
1. place a turbo fan
2. put a Frozen water bottle in ur tank (although it is not permanent and u need to frequently change it)
3. open ur air conditioner
and check this awesome KING of DIY guy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSvklmqHKB8&t=456s
Thanks. We never did need an air condition in the apartment except a few very hot days during summer. Just used a huge fan which was way OK. But that will look very bad near the aquarium for the whole summer.

I Just did was was suggested by SallImSayin and put an ACinfinity fan on the top facing down to the tank between 2 HOBs. Cooled the tank from 82.9 to 81.2 in 30 min and got stuck there. was a good try though.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 09:13 AM
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Thanks. We never did need an air condition in the apartment except a few very hot days during summer. Just used a huge fan which was way OK. But that will look very bad near the aquarium for the whole summer.

I Just did was was suggested by SallImSayin and put an ACinfinity fan on the top facing down to the tank between 2 HOBs. Cooled the tank from 82.9 to 81.2 in 30 min and got stuck there. was a good try though.
cool! maybe add a frozen bottle? a big bottle maybe..
i know it will look seriously ridiculous in the tank but at least the live stock healthy and survive for the summer..

ohh maybe turn off the lighting longer than usual will help?
like if u usually turn on the light for 12 hour then maybe set to 7 hour?

Last edited by richie_brave; 05-19-2017 at 09:46 AM. Reason: .
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by richie_brave View Post
cool! maybe add a frozen bottle? a big bottle maybe..
i know it will look seriously ridiculous in the tank but at least the live stock healthy and survive for the summer..

ohh maybe turn off the lighting longer than usual will help?
like if u usually turn on the light for 12 hour then maybe set to 7 hour?
Thanks for the suggestions.

Great news!!! I took the glass top out and with the fan together it dropped to 76.7F Thats amazing! If it drops little more my heater will turn on
Will try if I can get it with a smaller fan. Meanwhile I put half of the glass top back.

Works great so far

Thanks

Finally my heater turned on I put the fan on a timer. 1h on 1h off and so on. Any suggestions for a temperature controller?

Thanks

Last edited by Busybeeerc; 05-19-2017 at 11:03 AM. Reason: adding info
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Busybeeerc View Post
Thanks for the suggestions.

Great news!!! I took the glass top out and with the fan together it dropped to 76.7F Thats amazing! If it drops little more my heater will turn on
Will try if I can get it with a smaller fan. Meanwhile I put half of the glass top back.

Works great so far

Thanks
Question:
why dont just take the top glass out?
will ur fish jump out?
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Busybeeerc View Post
Thanks for the suggestions.

Great news!!! I took the glass top out and with the fan together it dropped to 76.7F Thats amazing! If it drops little more my heater will turn on
Will try if I can get it with a smaller fan. Meanwhile I put half of the glass top back.

Works great so far

Thanks

Finally my heater turned on I put the fan on a timer. 1h on 1h off and so on. Any suggestions for a temperature controller?

Thanks
I think @inkbird makes a dual temp controller, where you would plug your heater into one plug and your cooler (fan in your case) into the other. You set the temps that each turn on, so you can set it to a range of 74-76 and either the fan or the heater will turn on depending on which threshold it hits.

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richie_brave View Post
Question:
why dont just take the top glass out?
will ur fish jump out?
Previously my crayfish run away and dried outside and 1 time my neon jumped out But you right, I took half of the glass out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jellopuddinpop View Post
I think @inkbird makes a dual temp controller, where you would plug your heater into one plug and your cooler (fan in your case) into the other. You set the temps that each turn on, so you can set it to a range of 74-76 and either the fan or the heater will turn on depending on which threshold it hits.

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I checked the inkbirds on amazon. Got little confused. Since my heater is an aqueon with thermostat (its set to 76F) I dont need to control it (will turn off if more than 76). I just need a temp controller that turns on the outlet (where i will plug the fan) when its over 76. Do I really need the inkbird with heating and cooling function?

Thanks
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Busybeeerc View Post
Previously my crayfish run away and dried outside and 1 time my neon jumped out But you right, I took half of the glass out.



I checked the inkbirds on amazon. Got little confused. Since my heater is an aqueon with thermostat (its set to 76F) I dont need to control it (will turn off if more than 76). I just need a temp controller that turns on the outlet (where i will plug the fan) when its over 76. Do I really need the inkbird with heating and cooling function?

Thanks
There must be cooler controllers, but I would assume they are designed for saltwater tanks, and are probably pretty pricey. I'm sure you will find something by just googling it.

The other option would be to get the inkbird, set the high temp to 76, and set the heater to something like 78.

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 12:37 PM
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The chillers show up in saltwater tanks because the heating is generally more of a problem with the 10 wpg used on SPS reef tanks. Very few reefers use glass tops because the temp can drop 3-5 degrees by just opening the lid. A common solution to fish jumping is 1/8 or 1/4 inch nylon netting mounted in window screen frames. The white screen has minimal light reflection or absorption and doesn't look bad at all. The frame is not very intrusive if you are using a framed tank. I'm sure there are DIY options that are cheaper.

I also used three little portable 4" desk fans pointed so they rippled the tank surface (like this). Two sat on the overflow boxes and one was mounted with a wire routing clip to the roof of the stand over the sump. I had all three on a temp controller and this kept the tank temperature down another 3-5 degrees (works better in a dry climate like mine).

One of the nice things about both products is that you can swap them out when summer ends and it doesnt take up valuable freezer space to cycle bottles. Both tend to gather dust and need care once or twice a month to stay looking nice.

Bump: Oh, one more bit. Make sure your tank is OK with shifting water levels. You can lose a lot of water each day with evaporation cooling (tank will be cooler than room temp, not heat exchange). When we had our patch above 110 (house about 80-85) I was replacing 1-2 gallons a day on my 110 gallon reef tank.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the great comments. So far, taking out half of the glass cover and having a fan working 1 hour every other hour fixed the temp between 76.5 and 77. 5 with some plus minus. What is the average fluctuation that plant fish or invertebrates can handle ?
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 03:58 PM
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Most fish see no problem with a couple point in either direction on temp.
But a small point of designing the whole tank might be missing. To get air to go into or out of a closed space, we have to have a second opening for air. So when we lay a small fan on the top to feed air through an opening that fits tight enough to hold the fish, we also need to do something for the second opening. I find one quick easy way to do this is to stick a pencil under the tank lid so that it doesn't close and leaves just a crack all around. This is enough to let air pass but not fish!
When I think of controllers, I find two main reasons for using them. The primary reason for me is the way heaters tend to stick full on when they fail. Adding a controller to the heater is very good as it will shut things down if the heater fails. I've lost three tanks of fish and never want to do that again so some effort/cost is okay with me.
Inkbird controllers are great and do a wonderful job.
My review here: Review- INKBIRD temp controller
But I also run enough tanks that I flinch at buying $40 controllers for that number of tanks. For a way to get past the price with a bit of DIY work, I often go this way to get controllers for both cooling and heating :
Wiring a cheap digital temperature controller

It all comes back around to what we each need to do to adapt things to fit our own tank and situation. I just added a new LED light to this tank and found it required yet another change to keep the temperature in range. Since this is a fish room and not a display tank, this works for me.
A small computer fan laid on top of the open lid will drop it several degrees and into the good range .

While the Inkbird controls it to perfection. set point to 78.0 and both heating and cooling are off at 78.6.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-19-2017, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Busybeeerc View Post



I checked the inkbirds on amazon. Got little confused. Since my heater is an aqueon with thermostat (its set to 76F) I dont need to control it (will turn off if more than 76). I just need a temp controller that turns on the outlet (where i will plug the fan) when its over 76. Do I really need the inkbird with heating and cooling function?

Thanks
You can just wire it to use cooling if you want. IMO I think it's best to wire it with both (heating and cooling) just in case your heater sticks on, it won't cook your fish
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