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How do I connect the Fabco needle valve to a diffuser?

3K views 21 replies 6 participants last post by  decemberwind 
#1 ·
Okay the Milwaukee Ma957 gasses my tank several times and several people recommended the Fabco needle valve 55-18 but now I've been to 3 stores and been told they have no clue how to connect it to my diffuser! The push to connect valves are apparently only good for rigid tubing. HELP!
 
#6 ·
#8 ·


Forgot to include this

and this old part from the bubble counter is 3/8 and it has a nipple the airline fits over so I'm thinking my brothers or dad must have something they could cut the base off with. Otherwise why the hell were they all mechanics



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#9 · (Edited)
#11 · (Edited)
1/8 pipe is .405" outside diameter..roughly 3/8..Confusing od w/ id..
Fabco takes 1/8" pipe..

Seems the easiest thing it to join the old valve to the new one (should be 1/8 since the fabco fits where it ued to be....just run it full open.

Those bubble counters are usually "dual use" w/ either pipe fittings or tubing..


EDIT: didn't notice the fabco was "right angle".. complicates the above..

1/8npt nipple should be all you need..




Just replace the bubble counter w/ a more "user friendly" one if necessary..
 
#13 ·
1/8 pipe is .405" outside diameter..roughly 3/8..Confusing od w/ id..
Fabco takes 1/8" pipe..

Seems the easiest thing it to join the old valve to the new one (should be 1/8 since the fabco fits where it ued to be....just run it full open.

Those bubble counters are usually "dual use" w/ either pipe fittings or tubing..


EDIT: didn't notice the fabco was "right angle".. complicates the above..
K so the invoice says 1/8 could swear the guy said 3/8 at the time but whatever. The problem with your suggestion is the the old needle valve is stuck shut which is what finally motivated me to replace it with one that hadn't gassed my tank 2 twice in the past

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#14 ·
Hard to tell.. some of the milwaukee things seem to have parts of the bubble counter integrated into the valve.
Really best just get a cheap plastic one from Petco or such.. A 1/8 barb in 1/8npt and hose from Lowes or some such.. Saves a lot of grief..

sorry just not seeing enough or correct images to tell much..
If like this it is attached to straight threads on the old needle valve and gasketed..



You could try (to find) a 1/8npt male to whatever straight thread that tank is..like this..
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/421468



BUT you have no "bubble" part..
 
#15 ·
See I had that item before and someone mentioned that it opens the valve up to oxidation and well my valve is stuck shut so it could be the reason and now I'm afraid of inline counters attached directly to the needle valve but! I found a compression fitting that worked on the slightly larger and more rigid tubing that my terrarium mister uses so that screws into the needle valve and then the largish tubing then a metal needle valve that I was able to jam into that tubing and put the standard silicone air line on the other side and we're back to a standard size line that will fit all my equipment!


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#18 ·
The most common size we would use for our intentions is the 1/4" tube fitting on one end, 1/8 or 1/4 male/female NPT on the other end. If you use 1/4"OD 1/8"ID tubing, these are great and extremely secure. The additional insert part I listed acts as a stiffener for the flexible tube. Without it, the swagelok fitting has nothing rigid to compress upon. You might find yourself leak-free now, but down the road when the flexible tubing gives in and deforms due to the unequal force exerted upon it, it will most likely leak. At which point you either cut your tubing back and insert a fresh section, or be done with it forever with a tubing insert.
 
#20 ·
I take mine apart all the time on my flex tubing because I swap regs frequently (testing new ones I get in). Note: I don't tighten mine 100% like I would with rigid tubing due to the relatively low pressures we use. Take a look at this image to see what's most likely inside. I say most likely because these are the parts swagelok and their clones usually use.
https://goo.gl/images/p57wyO

If you have a standard compression fitting from something like a plumbing supply place, it'll look like this.
https://goo.gl/images/Is5WHG
Notice they have a stiffener in there.

Usually with flexible tubing you never have to snug down so hard that the inner compression ring completely deforms and becomes unusable if you loosen the fitting, but still get a gas tight seal. If you're confident your tubing is rather resilient, then don't sweat it and you might be fine. The stiffener is used to make flex tubing "rigid" and let the fitting compress on the tubing without deformation.
 
#21 ·
The more I read your post with the pictures of your solution, the more I realize I'm probably just complicating things. Your rigid type tubing is probably fairly secure in that compression fitting. I thought you were using something less rigid and would therefore require some form of stiffening.

Regardless... if you ever decide to omit the rigid part and want to hook your flexible diffuser line directly to your new needle valve, you can do so with a 1/8 male NPT x 1/4 tubing Swagelok fitting (with a stiffener). Sorry for any confusion!
 
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