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Redoing my sump

2K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  KayakJimW 
#1 ·
I'm running a sump on my 90 gallon that I've had since about 1995. It's going strong but I'm looking to upgrade for two reasons: Trying to make it near silent and to have a holding area for trimmings, moss, etc to keep main tank looking its best.
Currently the setup is a 20L tank with an acrylic wet/dry box and bio-balls with a Mag Drive return pump. My plan is to replace the wet/dry box with Poret foam. The new setup will be: 4" area where water enters 29g sump> 2" wall of 10ppi Poret> open area with cups of substrate for plants and suction cup baskets on walls for mosses, rhizomes, etc, heater> 2" wall of 20ppi Poret> return pump.
I'm going back and forth on how water should enter the sump quietly. I've seen designs where PVC with a right angle at the bottom is used. Looks like a possibility. At first I was thinking 4" filter sock, but still undecided. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Something to keep in mind, with just foam, you're sump level will be the same across the entire sump, which isn't necessarily an issue, however it will lead to fluctuating water levels as water evaporates, which may make it a bit harder to keep silent. You may want to at least put some sort of baffle in where the return lines are to keep a constant water level so the return lines are always the same.

As for keeping it quiet, the less water you flow through your sump the quieter it'll be, circulation can be added in the tank if need be
 
#3 ·
Awesome point. I didn't want to use the traditional baffle sump design because then the only fluctuating water level would be concentrated in the small area with the return pump and I worried it might run too low if I'm out of town, or slip on my maintenance. I'd rather distribute the fluctuating water level across the sump.

Do you mean put a baffle where water enters the sump, or where the mag drive is? I like the idea of a baffle where the water enters the sump and let the rest of the area rise and fall a little. Thanks for the input, the blueprint's already changing...
 
#6 · (Edited by Moderator)
Good to know, I'm still considering the filter sock, and curious how helpful it will be on a freshwater setup. Basically, would the benefits outweigh the maintenance of keeping it clean. I guess I could start with it and nix it if I don't think its worth it.
There was a lot of initial noise with the mag drive, but after putting a sponge under it and using flexible tubing instead of PVC I can't hear it over the wet dry box when the cabinet doors are closed.

I was referring to a baffle right by the return from the overflow and let the rest of the pump fluctuate
That's what I thought you meant, I am liking this idea. The first poret wall would then be more beneficial two inches or so off the baffle which will reduce my holding area in the middle. Oh well, that's the trade off I guess, more quiet or more space, can't have it all. :smile2:
 
#8 ·
My noise is from the wet/dry box, which I'll be taking out. I'm trying to prevent any glug or splash that may come along with whatever new design I go with. Don't want to trade one noise for another, haha. My concern is tubes that go below the water surface seem like they'd want to glug, and tubes above the surface would sound like splashing water (like the box I'm replacing). At first I thought I'd try to make a drain tube with a hole in the side, right at the water level to let air escape. But because of sweet designs like this one http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/12-tank-journals/1080794-my-75-gal-w-diy-custom-stand-diy-sump-refugium.html where the tubes go beneath the water line and claim to be near silent, I may be overthinking it. I like to measure ten times before I start cutting and I appreciate all the good info. How does your water enter the sump?
 
#10 ·
Silent returns need to be plumbed a specific way. Herbie is fairly simple and described here: Herbie Overflow Plumbing Guide

There are siphon overflows that use only one pipe but you really want at least two for reliability.

That's very slick! Thanks for the link, that answered a lot of questions I had about the Herbie. I'm working with an All Glass Aquarium megaflow that's off set from the corner. It has two holes with a Durso standpipe and a return line and pretty limited space back there. After quite a bit of initial tweaking, I eventually got the Durso to be quiet. I'm hoping to leave that part how it is. I'll just have a single drain on this one.
 
#13 ·
Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks!


Don't use a small area for straining(as seen in photo).
Use a large drain cover for your favor of mishaps.

The plant material that covers a small drain will change things.
A large drain cover screen (below) allows much more surface for crud to build up on.



Bump:
Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks!
Keep your sump level pretty consistent.
Tunze has good top off equipment.
A big sump won't change that quick, but any evaporation will swing fluctuations.

The higher the sump, the more overused the #2 emergency herbie gets used.
The lower the sump (evaporation), the lower the water gets in the tank's Megaflow/Cornerflow, which brings in noise from falling water.
 
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