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DIY (or purchase-able) plug switch box???

2K views 18 replies 10 participants last post by  The Big Buddha 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

So, I've got a 55G sitting on a wooden stand, the kind with the double swing doors on the front, and an open back. I've got all my equipment running its cords down back there (with a drip loop, and a DIY cover over the actual outlet). But I tire of kneeling down, and having to reach around equipment and wood, to reach the power strip, when I need to turn anything off and on.

So what I'd like to do, if possible, would be to have a panel on the front of my stand with a bunch of on/off switches. One for each outlet, that would be hidden inside of the stand, or behind it.

In other words, I'd like to be able to plug my crap in, out of sight, but have visible, accessible switches available on the front or side of the stand that control each outlet.


Thoughts? Anyone done anything like this? Does such a product exist? I don't even really know where to start on Googling it.
 
#2 ·
Lots of different designs depending on how many plugs and switches. I like to have some things that I turn off every water change on a simple power strip. I put this somewhere near the front door so I can hit one single switch to turn off the heater so avoid burning it, the filter, so I can remove it and any other item I might not want running during a low water time. For things like the light, I either use the switch on the light itself or if that is not handy, I use a standard plastic electrical box to mount the switch where handy and then have it control a receptacle where the light is plugged.
Standard electrical boxes and switch are fine for me.
 
#3 ·
The basic idea. A switch panel, connected by cord to an outlet strip, connected by cord to wall outlet. Put outlet strip out of sight, on a drip loop, and mount the switch panel on the outside of the stand.

Ideas?
 

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#4 ·
If you want to DIY look at the combo switch outlet units. Use a plastic gang box as needed to accommodate your needs. That would be the most compact way. You could use full size switches and outlets but it will of course take up more room.

You could also use a double switch with a double outlet where each outlet is controlled by one switch. You just break off the tab on the hot side of the switch and wire it in.

As Rich said I just put all my equipment that needs switching onto one power strip.
 
#13 ·
#8 ·
@PlantedRich - Yeah, that makes sense. And is a good, basically free, way to accomplish most of my goals. However, I want it to be slick. It doesn't have to be crazy high tech, and I don't want to just throw money at it, but my goal is for this thing to be as, ummmmmmmmm, user friendly, and low-maintenance as possible.
@GraphicGr8s - I don't think I'd be able to make it look as nice as I wanted, using those products. I don't need it to look like Apple made it, but I also don't want it to look like I made it. I'm all for DIY, but I like my DIY to be behind the scenes.
@Fiala06 & @Dragonfish & @theatermusic87 - Those are exactly what I was thinking. Unsure if I'd be able to use the single unit items, based on the size/shape of the stand. But, the 2 piece one is exactly what I want. Too bad it's $100. Will have to think about that, and do some measurements at home to see if the single unit models would fit.


Thanks, everyone. Just what I needed. I should've thought about music equipment. Makes perfect sense.
 
#9 ·
Since much of our equipment is low amperage, one way to make it smaller and look nicer is to use simple single pole switches. Toggle switches? The outlet can be back in the back somewhere out of sight but the switch is what we want easy to reach and to look better. We can line up even six or eight small toggles on the side of a project box of whatever size we need. The wiring doesn't have to be heavy and hard to mange but just simple lamp cord is plenty big enough for most of our use unless we are running metal halide or something high power. That would let us use a box as small as 1" high by 2" deep and mounting only requires drilling the right size hole to mount the toggle switch. No cover required as the toggles only mount through the box.

A toggle like this is rated for 20 amp at 125 volts and that is more than many house circuits have.
Carling Toggle Switches - F-Series - SPST

Wiring and placing is easy but fitting the labels on the small size may be the harder part! Most of the cabinet/stand wiring I see is way too heavy for logic.
 
#11 ·
Oooooooohhhh! I absolutely love those Carling Toggles! They have a beautiful steam-punk kind of feel to them. I would absolutely love if I had those as my switches, and the only thing showing to the outside world. Going to have to look into precisely what all equipment and tools I need to try to accomplish that.

Bump:
I would go with a WeMo outlet type device. Not many "smart" power steps on the market right now, but home automation is growing quickly. Then you can control it all with your phone or voice - no need for an ugly panel either :)

https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Smart-Wi-Fi-Works-Alexa/dp/B00BB2MMNE?th=1&psc=1

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
At some point in the near-to-mid future, those would be awesome. However, I'm not ready to hop on the smart stuff bandwagon just yet, and can't justify the added cost. This is neat, but it doesn't address my issue. I still would have to do "some extra thing" to turn things on and off. Using this product means the "some extra thing" is using my cellphone or computer to switch what I want on and off, which is nifty and slick, but not all that convenient.
 
#12 ·
I don't know what level experience/training you might be so don't take offense if I tell you something you already know?
To make wiring a lot less bulky and easier, keep in mind that each circuit doesn't need tow seprate wires. No need for a full in and out (power and ground?) for each item and switch. You can use one single common or ground/neutral wire for several switches and just extend that wire from the first switch to the rest. Since most of our stuff doesn't draw much current, we can use one lead in for the common and the go from each switch to the item we power with a separate wire.
Do give some thought to what size and how many wires if you have some power hogs like metal halide, chiller, etc. but most of us use house circuit that are rated for 15 amp so just the normal extention cord wire may do the job fine.
I like stranded wire for small boxes as it is easier to bend and fold into place. For instance a filter using 35 watt at 110 volts is only 0.31818181818 amp!! That leaves you able to run lots of equipment on a 15 amp cord.

Shoot some questions if you have doubts on the wiring. Lots of guys here can get the right info to you so don't risk hurting yourself?
 
#15 ·
This is a good point. I have lots and lots of children. The cabinet is going to be, but not yet, locked from the outside, and there isn't enough clearance behind it to get in it. I've got the remote receiver for my Current USA Sat light mounted on the outside of the tank (so I can use the remote without opening the stinking cabinet, b/c what's the point of a remote, in that case?). But, that might be asking for trouble. I leave 5bps of CO2 pumping into the tank, and some punk kid or another could turn the lights off and gas the fish.

Will have to think about that.

And yea, I'd STILL like the switches I'm mentioning in this thread, but maybe I mount them INSIDE the cabinet. Still, I think, it makes it a whole lot easier to deal with, without the potential kid risk.

FYI, I've got a 7 year old son, a 4 year old daughter, a (2 weeks from) 3 year old son, and a 6 month old son. So, yeah.
 
#16 ·
Amazing what those fast little fingers can find!
There is really not many perfect locations for switches. Mounted on the top of the door opening, they are okay to reach but a real pain to see to get the right one. One the side is better for me as I can see then but then they are prone to getting whacked when I move the CO2 tank. If I get around to that project on another tank, I have a newer plan. I do wood a lot so it works for me to cut a channel in a 2X2 to set the switches down into where I don't whack them and then mount it all to the left side of the door opening. Some reason, I lean over and see left better than right?
What about using a "C" channel of aluminum, mount the switches in holes drilled in the back of the "C" so that the handle is protected inside the "C". Then the body of the switch is hanging out and may need a cover for the wiring? I like the aluminum for ease of cutting and fitting but then I do want to be really careful with insulating the wiring as things just tend to go wrong when I don't think it will. Aluminum makes a really pretty flash when it gets hit with 110!
 
#19 ·
Generally I have 2 power bars attached on the inside front left and front right of the stands. Label the wires and unplug as needed, or flip the switch on the power bar. I just plug everything I would like turned off during water changes into 1 power bar, the rest gets plugged in the other. Come Water change time, I throw the switch on one power bar, and that's it. I do like those switch outlets that were posted though.
I also wire up a box with a GFCI outlet located in the stand which then feeds the power bars. Much easier to reset the switch like that than one mounted in the wall behind the stand, ecspecially if the back of the stand is closed. Also if you ever relocate the tank, the GFCI goes with it.

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