Anybody here ever use a Regulator CGA 320 Inlet - WRFCO2 or something similar to it? Experience with it?
Oops! Dealing with a sinus headache I forgot whom recommended it.I am the one who recommended that regulator
Yes I also agree that 2 needle valves is not wise. The second needle valve works as an L joint and connector for bubble counter with check valve. I want to find something else to take its place. Not certain what to replace it with.There is no reason to use two needle valves(it actually might make your system more difficult to control).
Most agree that the best way to configure this is: Regulator---->Solenoid---->Needle valve
Thank you for the cost breakdown! Can you elaborate on the specific solenoid and bubble counter you're using (and sources)? Those are very low prices for those components. There's also (theoretically) a whole lot of room for improvement in the needle valve department, but if it works, it works. Can you report on how easy or difficult it is to tweak the bubble count at a specific pressure? Thanks!Last year I put together Paintball Co2 flow regulated system. I was scared to use it without a pressure regulator. Then I started thinking about putting a Co2 system together again. To get a pressurized Co2 system together I only needed a pressure regulator. Found 1 for $57. Calculating my over all cost for the paintball system I came to the conclusion that it is not much cheaper that a regular pressurized system. Another DIY project that would have been better buying new. I feel safer using a paintball tank and Swagelok needle valve, though. True I could have gotten an aquatek regulator with a solenoid but I felt it would not be reliable.
This is embarrassing but should be helpful to newbies wanting to DIY.
COST
Swagelok Adapter 1/4FIP x 1/8NPT --- 9.48
Swag. B-1VS4 Needle Valve ----------- 16.50
Solenoid ------------------------------------- 13.99
CO2 Regulator WRCO2 ---------------- 57.34
Subtotal --------------------------------------------- 97.31
Empire Paintball 24oz ------------------- 27.70
Hose Barb ---------------------------------- 1.05
Adaptors to run hose vertical ---------- 11.35
Thread Tape ------------------------------- 1.05
Silicone Airline Tubing ------------------ 3.70
Steel Check Valve ----------------------- 5.59
CO2 Bubble Counter ------------------- 5.50
Subtotal ------------------------------------------- 55.94
Total ----------------------------------------------- 153.25
I have 1 that cost $14. It has check valve in it. Not certain if will use it yet. For if I use it it will be under the tank. The plastic 1 I could mount on the side of the tank.Standard mounted bubble counters are usually in the $15 range
It is a 12 w solenoid. The ports are small thus using plastic adaptors.Solenoids are often either too-high wattage (so they overheat with continuous use), or they've got tiny ports, so mounting them is a fragile endeavor, although inline is always an option.
Well I am still in the learning phase. The 1st needle valve I ordered had the wrong ends. It is a B_1VS4. I have the needle valve that is on the Aquateck. If the 1 in the pic doesn't work I will use it. Some other 1s near my price range are Fabco NV5518 and Parker 338 Series B. Thoughts on those?As far as needle valves go, there's a metering valve thread that lists a whole bunch of options. The "1" series valve you're using is not designed for really precise changes in flow.
I tried it on the DIY citric system. It seemed to get hot.The solenoid you have, if it's 12 watts, won't work. The problem is that the high wattage solenoids either aren't designed for continuous use. I suspect it will get extremely hot and then burn out (or melt).
I am liking the PIC more than the others too. Perhaps may run the 2 needle valves like haril did here using the DIY needle valve.Maybe. I think I'd try the valve in the pic first. Then the DIY valve.
I'm not sure how running it continuously would make it safer, but some people go that route.
I was just wonder how to figure out the right needle valve to use.Cv isn't a standard you can use to compare valves all that well. Generally speaking, the lower the Cv of a valve, the more precise the valve will be, and the easier it will be to control the flow.
Hoping it will work with the PIP needle valve alone. Just thinking of back up plant. Haril used 2 in his setup which didn't have a regulator. He opened the Watts needle valve first and then adjusted it for the final bubble rate after closing in on the PIP needle valve. Logically I was thinking that best to adjust flow with PIP 1st and if that is not enough then adjust the watts needle flow.Using two needle valves won't help. Either the first or second valve becomes useless, depending on which is open more.
Just hold the regulator and start turning the tank will its unscrewed.When removing the tank the only thing that needs to move/spin is the tank.
I found on you tube that it is hiding between the treads.The O-ring is at the top of the tank threads
Just using a Spiral Glass Aquarium Tank CO2 Diffuser temporarily. I think I will put it under the filter intake and see how that works. Then experiment with a powerhead. Maybe I will build a reactor. Just sometimes I found the hard way DIY project cost as much as the product new. So need to research before I buildLike a bubbling atomizer will get less co2 into the water than say a good reactor. So to get the same effect you would need to pump out more co2 and much would just hit the top of the water and go into the air.
Well that is all I need, for I am just concerned as to what will happen if the pressure builds up due to something malfunctioning. NowI am not too worried. I just hope I put everything together tight so it doesn't burst on me. I will have the tank anchored to the wall so that the tank won't move.B]Technically the tank and regulator both have a burst disk. Not relief on demand more relief if the tank gets too much pressure.