Reviews on fluval g3/g6? - Page 15 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #211 of 224 (permalink) Old 09-14-2012, 06:25 AM
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Ran across this old thread and thought to throw in my 3cents...

Just got off the phone with Hagen. My new g6 power head price is in the mail. I was getting impeller problems and errors after less than three months. They're replacing the whole thing.
Here is a pic of the flow:
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It would run to the point of turning off. After a few weeks with my new eheim while the g6 was being shipped and tested, I like it but miss the ease of cleaning the mech filter from the top without opening the main unit.

[75g high tech -- 20g shrimp jungle -- 130g bow-front build WIP ]
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post #212 of 224 (permalink) Old 09-14-2012, 01:29 PM
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I wonder if this is more a G6 problem as other have had the trouble? My G3 has not had this. I'm interested in how this turns out, if I set up a 2nd display tank I might buy a G6.
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post #213 of 224 (permalink) Old 09-14-2012, 01:48 PM
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Conductivity/TDS ???


Quote:
Originally Posted by OVT View Post
....Water changes/filter performance: find the TDS of your tap water (RO should be 0). If your tank TDS starts going up, your filter is slacking or something else (bad) is going on. If TDS crosses a specific to you threshold, time for a water change.

Fish acclimatization: there are arguments that the diff in TDS is more important then PH, temp, hardness, etc. If the source water and your tank water have close TDS - just dump the fish in. If not, time for slowly adding tank water to the fish bag.

....
Quote:
Originally Posted by !shadow! View Post
That's a good question
http://www.eutechinst.com/techtips/tech-tips40.htm

http://www.stevenswater.com/water_qu...vity_info.html

I just googled that for ya. I don't really bother with it as long as I do my water changes every week. It's nice to know if you must tho.
Rereading the thread I started to think about this again. I understand the importance of having a baseline on one's tap water. But how does one know what is the optimal number to run ones tank on?

Range from 570 after large W/C to 750-824. I use the flow screen to keep track of pre filter cleaning and the calendar warning for the bio-media. I think to be more scientic I'd need to cross chart that against temp range or at least be sure I'm looking at conductivity only @ 25C.

Other than declor, I seldom make any adjustments temp wise unless it's a massive W/C. I offer the same inconsistencies nature does. I vary W/C all year. During the heat wave I did Daily water changes, I've gone weeks with only top offs in the winter. I've done 50-75% changes during re-scapes.

What I find is I have much healthier Plants & Fish. Yes there a few losses alone the way just as in nature.
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post #214 of 224 (permalink) Old 09-14-2012, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DogFish View Post
Conductivity/TDS ???

Rereading the thread I started to think about this again. I understand the importance of having a baseline on one's tap water. But how does one know what is the optimal number to run ones tank on?

Range from 570 after large W/C to 750-824. I use the flow screen to keep track of pre filter cleaning and the calendar warning for the bio-media. I think to be more scientic I'd need to cross chart that against temp range or at least be sure I'm looking at conductivity only @ 25C.
I have very soft water and have seen conductivity (uCS?) <100. My tap's dKH and dGH is nearly unreadable (sometimes 0, sometimes 1). I want my G6 back so I can watch this again. I supplemental with sodium bicarbonate to raise the kH some, usually to 3-4 dkh. Since my last order of ferts, I'm now adding GH booster as part of the EI dosing scheme.

Anyway, I like to see a fairly constant conductivity over time. Don't know how much impact it would be on the system. Just my 2 cents

[75g high tech -- 20g shrimp jungle -- 130g bow-front build WIP ]
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post #215 of 224 (permalink) Old 09-14-2012, 05:41 PM
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I'm going to take a tap water and a tank water sample to my friendly neighborhood hydroponic shop hand have them test for TDS. That's major for hydroponics. I'll take my Fisher Labs thermometer with and check the temp. Ill post results.
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post #216 of 224 (permalink) Old 09-17-2012, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by !shadow! View Post
That's a good question
http://www.eutechinst.com/techtips/tech-tips40.htm

http://www.stevenswater.com/water_qu...vity_info.html

I just googled that for ya. I don't really bother with it as long as I do my water changes every week. It's nice to know if you must tho.
Thanks, I also found this calculator to convert it automatically.
http://www.lenntech.com/calculators/...tds-engels.htm

The one you select for freshwater is microS/cm I think.
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post #217 of 224 (permalink) Old 04-03-2013, 02:52 PM
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Has Problems

The Fluval G3 has problems. So does the G6. Many people have reported flow problems with no solution provided by the manufacturer. I had my G3 for less than 6 months, the flow rate is at 70%, I have done everything possible and Customer Service has no good answer.
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post #218 of 224 (permalink) Old 04-03-2013, 02:57 PM
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After my previous set of posts, customer service wanted to test my filter. They ended up shipping me an entire new g6. As a secondary filter it is working fine. Don't use the fine mesh filter. Don't use purigen in the chem basket. And change the filter every other day if you want full flow rate.

The no bypass filter design is nice but not very good for a planted tank for it fills up way too fast.


Would I buy one again? No. Would I toss the whole thing in the trash in frustration? Not anymore.

[75g high tech -- 20g shrimp jungle -- 130g bow-front build WIP ]
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post #219 of 224 (permalink) Old 04-04-2013, 03:42 AM Thread Starter
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I agree with sphack. I had the flow problem when using the fine micron cartridge. reduced flow to like 1/3 which was waaay too much. Took it off and went back with the reg white threaded one and worked normal. I say change the filter twice a week. Mines lasts about a week to 2. I guess depends on how much junk the filter takes up junk. I have small boraras briggitae so it's obviously going to clog up less than one on a cichlid tank.

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post #220 of 224 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 02:31 AM Thread Starter
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So I was setting up my tank a few hours ago and notice that I'm only getting about 1/3 flow on the g3. I figured it might be the impeller since I haven't messed with it during the 4 years i've had it and maybe time I replace it. Problem Is how does one know it's time to do so and generally how long does the impellers last?

----gauny----
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post #221 of 224 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 02:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MickeyMahwah View Post
The Fluval G3 has problems....
My has been running for over a year with no problems what so ever.

I've double the bio media by using GrowStones a hydroponic media. I've added a sponge to the chemical chamber. I use a sponge on the intake as a pre-filter.

With those additional restrictions I should have reduced flow but I do not. I would buy another and I would recommend them and I am not a big fan of canister filters.
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post #222 of 224 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 02:42 AM
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Originally Posted by !shadow! View Post
...Problem Is how does one know it's time to do so and generally how long does the impellers last?
Magnet drives get slimy build up that can be cleaned with H2O2 & a paper towel. Not a bad quarterly maintenance idea.
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post #223 of 224 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 02:42 AM Thread Starter
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Yea I have two choices.. 1. buy the impeller for 30 bucks and have a 50% chance to work or not work or just go ahead and realize it was time for a new filter.

----gauny----
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post #224 of 224 (permalink) Old Today, 08:19 PM
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How are you guys getting on with the G6?

Hi All,

Digging up and old (but very interesting!) thread as I'm considering buying a G6 for my new 82g tank.

How are your guys getting on with the G6? Are you all still using it, and if would you still recommend one and also anything to watch out for?
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