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Parameters should be right but shrimp still dying!

2K views 27 replies 12 participants last post by  ravensgate 
#1 ·
This is pretty frustrating, I just cured my rcs of that little parasite that makes them have little spikes on their heads. Did a water change with RO water, added minerals, added Shield. Water temp is right, the GH was right when I tested it. Got new shrimp and now one is dying here and there. I noticed that the one that dies swims oddly before keeling over. They look normal before dying, no spikes, fuzzy spots, noticeable cloudiness. What the heck is my problem here guys? :(
 
#4 ·
Nothing new, no CO2. Its a shrimp only tank with an air driven sponge filter. 10 gallons. I'm re-testing my parameters because I finally got my ph tester back from my bf and the ph is low. Could low ph be the cause?
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
I am using a ph meter, it was just recalibrated today so it should be correct. How can I safely raise my ph? Should I use baking soda?

Just realized something that might have to do with my shrimp dying. My boyfriend has an RO filter and this last water change he filled my jugs up with that instead of me just using RO water from the dispensary that filters every which way imaginable. Its possible that there still might be something bad in the water still since regular RO filters don't remove chlorine and chloramine right? Every time I listen to him.... Last time he did a water change with his previous filter he killed half my amano shrimp.
 
#10 ·
A ro filter should have a charcoal filter before it to take care of the chlorine/chloromine I believe. I think if it didn't the chlorine would ruin the ro membrane. His ro membrane could just be shot, when was the last time it was checked? I agree it sounds like a molting issue if they are swimming around frantically before they die.
 
#14 ·
mineral supplements can raise the gh a good thing if it is too low from pure ro... products like fluval mineral supplement for shrimp will greatly and quickly increase the overall gh

There's nothing wrong with the posters GH. It's the pH that's too low and remineralizers aren't meant to raise pH.
 
#20 ·
Sure, sometimes its enough if there is no stress in the tank and if things remain stable. Anytime I see my shrimp acting weird or have unexplained deaths I add another airstone immediately. More oxygen is always appreciated (and raises shrimplet survival rates as well). I have sponge filters, spraybars and extra airstones in my tanks. Plus you should always have one on hand (in my opinion) in case you need to isolate a shrimp, get shrimp shipped in (putting it into their container while they acclimate cuts down on stress). It's just one of those things I always keep extras on hand of. That and extra air pumps. That's just me though:)

Just the other day I had a couple of shrimp acting frantic, and heading towards the surface. I had a shadow panda sitting quite still, the complete opposite. I had done a water change the day prior but do slow drips on them so didn't feel it was an issue. I checked params and everything was as it should be so I added an extra airstone right away and they immediately calmed down and went back to normal, the shadow panda went right back to grazing and acting normal. Some dechlorinators such as Prime can lower the oxygen level in the tank. I use RO water and half dose Prime but it still might have been the cause for my problem as the only thing I'd done was a WC as normal the day before. At any rate, the tank has a spraybar running the full length breaking the surface as well as a sponge filter. That's plenty but at that moment in time apparently the extra airstone was appreciated and got them all back to normal. Worth it to me to keep them on hand:)

Also, I didn't look to see if you listed the size of your tank but if you just have one sponge filter you may have dead spots in the tank. I run a sponge filter on one end of my tanks and airstone on the opposite end. You could do a sponge on each end. I like to over filter and over oxygenate. I don't on my neo tank and it's something I actually need to resolve.
 
#21 ·
Ok I'll add an airstone and see what that does and recheck the ph with a liquid test. I've also added paraguard just in case its an infection of some sort. If the pH really is that low how do I raise it?
 
#22 ·
I wouldn't suggest just randomly dosing meds 'just in case'. I have lost livestock through a course of Paraguard, it's not a little wimpy chemical. If you want to do something completely harmless but possibly beneficial stick to Indian almond leaves, Alder cones, and adding an air stone. As far as pH first you need to confirm without a doubt what it is. Mosura make a product called pH Up that you might try but it's a giant PITA to use/figure out (to me anyway).
 
#24 ·
Also, these are new shrimp to you correct? How did you acclimate them?
Correct, I acclimated them over a whole day of drip. Also it turns out my pH isn't bad my digital tester is off. I swear those things are always malfunctioning..... So my theory is that they got a bacterial infection. I added airstones and dosed with some paraguard. So far I haven't lost any new shrimp today so I think the paraguard is working. Will do a water change as well just in case.
 
#28 ·
Depends on how far off the parameters are. If I have parameters that are WAY different than where they are coming from then I drip for 4-6 hours. If things are close (TDS within 50, pH close) then I drip for 1-2 hours. Everybody has a different way of doing it, I honestly don't think there is a wrong or right way. I've noted truly ZERO difference in long drips vs short ones. I'm not in a big hurry so if they drip slow I don't really care. I've done plop and drop with neos and amanos and haven't lost a single one. Everyone will have different experiences I'm sure:)
 
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