Water change schedules for cardinas - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
View Poll Results: Water Changes (choose closest) - How often and how much?
Once a week @ 10% 10 21.28%
Once a week @ 20% 13 27.66%
Once a week @ 30% 4 8.51%
Once every 2 weeks @ 10% 2 4.26%
Once every 2 weeks @ 20% 4 8.51%
Once every 2 weeks @ 30% 2 4.26%
Once every 3 weeks @ 10% 0 0%
Once every 3 weeks @ 20% 1 2.13%
Once every 3 weeks @ 30% 1 2.13%
Once every 4 weeks @ 10% 4 8.51%
Once every 4 weeks @ 20% 2 4.26%
Once every 4 weeks @ 30% 1 2.13%
No water change. Only top offs 3 6.38%
Voters: 47. You may not vote on this poll

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post #16 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 05:40 PM
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This is a tricky question. I change my water more frequently in months 1-5 of a new tank. Probably once a week for the first 3 months then once every other week for months 4-5. Once the soil stops leaching and the nitrate stops creeping up because there's no ammonia being converted and the tank is super stable...then maybe once a month to once every 6 weeks....

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post #17 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 06:07 PM
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the poll really dont show what i do so i just went with 4 weeks and 30%. when i do water changes they are pretty big about 50% but with that said it might be 6 or 8 weeks between water changes and i only use tap water and dechlore. mine berry and i get babies. pretty good survival rate really. and i use fluval shrimp stratum and had it in my tank for just over a year. its about time to change it though cause its starting to break down and get dusty. so far no leaching of bad stuff just starting to make a mess if disturbed at all
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post #18 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shrimpnmoss View Post
This is a tricky question. I change my water more frequently in months 1-5 of a new tank. Probably once a week for the first 3 months then once every other week for months 4-5. Once the soil stops leaching and the nitrate stops creeping up because there's no ammonia being converted and the tank is super stable...then maybe once a month to once every 6 weeks....
shrimpnmoss,

I see you chose 20%. So during the first 3 months is it 20% every week and months 4-5 is 20% every 2 weeks and after the 5th month, its back down to once every 4-6 weeks @ 20%?

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post #19 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Something I just thought of.

So instead of changing the water religiously every week, two weeks or what have you, is it better to approach it in terms of just basing it off your TDS reading?

Say I set my TDS limit to be 150ppm. If it gets to 150ppm or over I need to do a 10-20% WC depending on how large my tank is to get it down to my optimal TDS which is my case is 110ppm (which reads out 0 kH, 4-5 gH, 6.0 pH).

The change from 110ppm - 150ppm could happen in 2 week, 4 weeks, even 6 weeks depending on how often I feed and top-off. Would this approach be more "stable"? That way you don't have to do a WC if in two weeks your TDS only goes up by 10ppm for example.

This is based on the assumption that TDS would increase if ammonia or nitrate/nitrite increases.

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post #20 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 11:14 PM
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I think it's better just to get a feel for what your tank needs and base your water change schedule on that. It could be a combo of TDS, detritus, nitrates, et al.
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post #21 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 11:22 PM
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Water change schedules for cardinas

I don't do WC at all or very rarely. I used to do water changes every week and had more problems that way. I top off with remineralized RO water when needed and have been known to add straight tap. I have crystals and neos. My crystal tank is reproducing with a ton of peewees-sub adult. My adult have been on hiadis thru the last 3 months/winter, but I anticipate they should start breeding soon as spring is coming. I have had no deaths for over 6 months and my original 10 have increased to close to 30. They are in an ebi with FSS.
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post #22 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 11:38 PM
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"I top off with remineralized RO water when needed and have been known to add straight tap."

Straight tap contains things a water conditioner is used for. Why are you replacing evaporated water with remin? That only adds to your TDS.

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post #23 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-14-2013, 11:56 PM
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Water change schedules for cardinas

The point if my post is water changes were pushed as the end all be all for shrimp, but shrimp don't live in pristine water in the wild... Or what I feel happens when you are constantly adding new water to an environment shrimp need a stable environment. I think having a ton if plants to soak up nitrates ammonia ect plus the addition of filtration with good bacteria, cholla wood, IAL's and substrate used for biological filtration are more important than water changes. So far this thought has worked for my tanks, but they are not farm tanks either I just wanted crystals to reproduce for me to look at and that is what's happening for me.
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post #24 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-15-2013, 02:26 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wrangler View Post
shrimp don't live in pristine water in the wild... Or what I feel happens when you are constantly adding new water to an environment shrimp need a stable environment. I think having a ton if plants to soak up nitrates ammonia ect plus the addition of filtration with good bacteria, cholla wood, IAL's and substrate used for biological filtration are more important than water changes.
I feel exactly the same way

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post #25 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-15-2013, 03:19 AM
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I do a 80% w/c every month, and amazingly my yellows are still happy and breeding!


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post #26 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-15-2013, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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80%?

Man that is gonna be tough on your shrimps to adjust each time. They must be Super Yellows since most of what I heard, yellows are weakest of Neos. Some even more sensitive than CRS.

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post #27 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-15-2013, 06:58 PM
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Actually I have that going on in 3 tanks now! I have gone from high-tech to low-maintenance as my general approach.

When I did that, I knew that the yellows were going to suffer but I was gearing other species so I decided to take my chances. In the last few months, I see no decrease in health, color, or breeding at all! Even the yellows which have had the unfortunate fate of living with my puffers in a 8g tank seem to be doing fine - the puffers eat all the babies, but the 2 girls that managed to grow up in there are just about always berried or saddled.

After each huge w/c, I see molted shrimp skins hanging around. And, my kuhli's go crazy for hours. Then, they all calm down and they are fine for 4 or even 5 weeks.

I never imagined that the fish would tolerate this regime. Everything is healthy, even my bamboo shrimp looks fantastic and I don't have to clean the glass anymore and no algae except in this one branch under the light ( and I sort of like it there).

Low maintenance FTW!


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post #28 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 02:10 AM Thread Starter
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Ok,

Not sure if its because its still early on to tell but the results shows the opposite to what the majority says about stability on cardinas. If water changes are done weekly at the rate of 10%-20%, its hard to control stability isn't it?

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post #29 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 02:40 AM
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I think that water changes keep things stable, if you are good at making the remineralized water and knowing what it will do to the water in the tank. I do 2 20% a week and I never see more than like a 5-10point tds change. If that makes sense lol.
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post #30 of 40 (permalink) Old 03-17-2013, 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Forumsnow View Post
I think that water changes keep things stable, if you are good at making the remineralized water and knowing what it will do to the water in the tank. I do 2 20% a week and I never see more than like a 5-10point tds change. If that makes sense lol.
But why are you changing the water? Are you adding ferts that you need to remove? If you only notice a 5-10 point change in TDS......what are you removing? If you tank is stable and you have a good biological filter going, plants to absorb any waste produced by shrimp....and your not over feeding.....why so many water changes? Water doesn't go bad by being in your tank.....unless you have an unstable environment. Justmythoughts
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