Sage Advice for Noobie Shrimp Keepers - Page 12 - The Planted Tank Forum

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post #166 of 190 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by andygold View Post
Well, didn't get any replies to some previous questions, but I've got some different ones now...

The OP says that you can't have too much filtration capacity. Any thoughts as to filtration turnover(GPH/LPH) for a shrimp tank?

With all the different substrates and their various resulting PH levels, how does one determine which substrate to use?
Most of the shrimp out there are freshwater stream dwellers, not brackish species (ghost and ammanos being the exceptions I know about). So I wouldn't put salt in their tank. And they're find with snails and with ottos. Just be careful not to have too many snails of the food fights can get ugly.

High turnover is great for shrimp (the cleaner the water the better), but so is low flow, so it's a balancing act. One thing they ALL benefit from is a sponge filter.

Substrate choice is predicated upon shrimp choice. If you have hard water and are looking to start with an easy shrimp, get neos of some kind and don't worry about a substrate that lowers the pH. Age your tap water to see if the pH goes down to neutral, and if not, mix it with a bit of RO/distilled from the store.
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post #167 of 190 (permalink) Old 01-05-2013, 06:03 PM
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Oh believe me I do, the tank gets several stares and magnifying glass through out the day. They are crystal red shrimp but I think I would at least see a berried female once . Feeding time has got to be the best time though, nothing funnier then seeing a shrimp take off with half a pellet of food being chased by five others with more slowly picking up pieces.
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post #168 of 190 (permalink) Old 01-06-2013, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by GeToChKn View Post
When you use active substrates to lower the pH, you need really soft tap water or RO water. If you use a high pH, hard tap water, the soil isn't going to buffer a lot, pH is going to swing when you change water and the substrate will where out very quickly. kH is a very determining factor in pH and most high pH tap waters are high in kH. your gH and other mineral content can be all over the place.

If you plan to keep cherry/fire red/yellow or any of the other neo species, they will usually do fine in a 8-8.5pH water and active substrate isn't needed. If you want to do crystal/tiger/taiwan bee, they like a lower pH and active substrates, RO or very soft water are usually needed.
So, with my tap water PH @ 8.0-8.5, very soft water (whole house, pelletized salt, water softener), TDS of about 8-15ppm, I should be good to go with "cherry/fire red/yellow or any of the other neo species". I'm thinking on using Safe-T-Sorb as the substrate and then lightly planting in a 5 gallon tank (to start) with one plastic-shield protected 13 watt, 6500K CCF bulb. Some small driftwood and a few pieces of Cholla wood, Prime, & Flourish

Going to try the AquaClear 20 set to minimum flow (I think that's recommended for a 5 gallon) with some Purigen and the OEM sponge. Going to get some foam (or SS screening) for the intake, with either an air powered corner filter filled with sponge (no not baby safe), or a standard sponge to follow.

With the very soft water though, what will buffer it to keep the PH stable? I would figure that harder water with some more minerals in it would be beneficial for buffering PH. Isn't some sort of alkalinity necessary to stabilize the PH?

Can someone point me to a list of plants possibly based upon their PH requirements (or water hardness?). Also, is there a book or digital download that would be the beginner's bible for shrimp keeping?

Newbie question I've not seen addressed in regards to planted/shrimp tanks...
This will be my first foray away from fish only/crabs & snail tanks. With my fish tanks, an important part of my standard cleaning involves gravel vac-ing alternate halves of the substrate with each water change (disgusting yellow-brown water and fish goop). With planted tank threads, I've seen no mention of vacuuming. I'm guessing that vacuuming is a no-no as it would disturb aquascaping, but I'm not sure. How does one get the detritus out of the gravel when dealing with a planted/shrimp tank?

Anything above that flies directly in the face of wisdom, please let me know

Last edited by andygold; 01-06-2013 at 06:27 PM. Reason: spelling?
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post #169 of 190 (permalink) Old 04-03-2013, 01:03 AM
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What a read! Fantastic!
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post #170 of 190 (permalink) Old 04-25-2013, 07:11 AM
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Great write up, exactly what i was looking for!
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post #171 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-18-2013, 07:42 PM
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Thanks! Wealth of information here!

"Adopt the pace of nature; her secret is patience." ~ Ralph Waldo Emerson
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post #172 of 190 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013, 07:14 AM
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Will seachem excell kill shrimps?
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post #173 of 190 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014, 02:11 AM
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Thanks for this STICKY!
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post #174 of 190 (permalink) Old 05-21-2014, 04:30 PM
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Nice thread!

I want to share my experience (a really bad one) that I just had a few days ago with all you, so this might save shrimps. I have a 6 Gallon Shrimp only tank (with 1 small rabbit snail), all Sulawesi Cardinal.

Here the parameters and equipment:
Ammonia = 0
Nitrites = 0
Nitrates = 0 – 5 ppm
PH = 7.5
Temp = 81 – 83 F
TDS = 140

6 gallons fluval edge aquarium
1 cannister filter (Marineland C160, rate up to 30 gallons)
Fluval substrate
1 heater
RO/DI water with Sulawesi minerals (7.5)
1 air stone
Driftwood
Cholla wood
Quartz (decoration)


I started it with 7 Sulawesi Cardinal Shrimps and after 11 months I got more than 40 (I even had to sell some because of the space). So, after all that time I just saw 3-4 death shrimp (all babies). That was until 3 days ago; 2 days ago I noticed 2 death shrimps ( 1 adult), in the beginning I thought it was because of the fact that they are supposed to live up to 2 years, so 1 year old when I bought them plus 1 more year makes sense for the adult, the following day (yesterday) I noticed another 2 death, so I said myself there’s something wrong here. I removed an acrylic that I have to hide the filter tubes and the heater and I saw at least another 8 death!! . I started to freak out.

Right away a did a test of all the parameters, Ammonia = 0, Copper = 0, Temperature = 83 F, TDS: 140, PH = 7.5, Nitrite = 0, the only one that got my attention was the Nitrate that was at 5 ppm – 10ppm. So I performed a 40% water change, while I was doing it I noticed one mother shrimp with their babies in her belly dying, so sad to see that.

I was going through my mind what else could it be that’s causing this, so I remembered that a few weeks ago I read this document where it said that the air stones could be almost at the surface of the water because that was where all the gas exchange was done, so 2 weeks ago I moved it to the surface. That’s when I realized that the problem was that the air stone was almost outside, so there was little or none air in the water. I almost sure that my aquarium was for at least 2-3 days with not enough air (after the last water change performed). I right away put the air stone in the bottom of the aquarium and increased the air flow. Like magic I could see the shrimp getting better (unfortunately the shrimp mother did not make it and died a few hours after). I have not seen any other shrimp death after that.

Moral:

- Monitor your parameters (as often as you can) and your equipment (daily).
- Take a few minutes to see the shrimp behavior (you can do it when you feed them).
- As soon as you see deaths or something unusual, Act fast, you can lose them very fast. Do not assume that it will change or get better by itself with no intervention from your part. If I had wait another day, I’m sure all will be death.
- For my experience, make sure you get your water with enough oxygen, if not you can find all inhabitants dead in a matter of hours/days. I even bought a battery pump in case of a power outage.

Thanks,
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post #175 of 190 (permalink) Old 07-27-2014, 05:53 PM
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WOW, glad I read it all but almost sorry to see it end.
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post #176 of 190 (permalink) Old 10-21-2014, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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WOW, glad I read it all but almost sorry to see it end.
I haven't been around in awhile. Did Planted Tank do away with Stickies? Just curious. It's been so long for me now that I'll have to refer to my own writing to just figure out where to begin again after so many years away.

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post #177 of 190 (permalink) Old 10-21-2014, 06:20 PM
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welcome back Jettison!! I just got back a couple weeks ago myself. The board seems really quiet now.

I remember this post and string though.. I read every page!!
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post #178 of 190 (permalink) Old 10-21-2014, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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welcome back Jettison!! I just got back a couple weeks ago myself. The board seems really quiet now.

I remember this post and string though.. I read every page!!
I remember you! Cool that we bumped into each other. I miss this hobby so much.

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post #179 of 190 (permalink) Old 10-22-2014, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by youjettisonme View Post
I remember you! Cool that we bumped into each other. I miss this hobby so much.


Any reason why you stepped away a while back? Your scapes were amazing.
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post #180 of 190 (permalink) Old 10-22-2014, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Any reason why you stepped away a while back? Your scapes were amazing.
Thanks! Well, I ended up going back to racing bicycles. That involves training about 15 hours a week + lots of travel. I just didn't have any time to hold a full-time job, have a relationship, race, and then also take care of tanks.

I am hoping to find a better balance though. I just got rid of one tank two weeks ago and hope to get rid of at least 2 more, leaving me with 3 tanks total. I plan to make one of those a show-quality tank again in the near future.

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