So... after two years of development work on hardware and recipes, DK has over the winter been pulling all her tanks back into production mode. She's had them there before, so she can look at a tank and tell "when it's not right." The tank whispers to her...
And lately, one tank has not been "right." And she's been banging her head against the wall, testing, testing, pondering, etc.
She does a lot of benchmark testing on her system, to make sure it's running smoothly and putting out consistency. Good thing, because she's running nitrate injections and noticed her injection was not "putting out" the level of nitrates her calculations told her should be a-happenin'.
So, she backed up and tested her nitrate concentrate vat... nada. Now, red flags are a-flyin', 'cause she KNOWS what she put into that vat, and she tested the injector yesterday and it's injecting as specified, she knows this. What the heck is going on? She just replaced and tested a brand new nitrate test only a month or so, ago
She climbs her squirrely brain into the internets, into cyberspace, and stalks around. And she learns about honey. Well, sort of.
She posts this to warn all y'all, what she learned, about honey. Well, sort of.
Most commercial nitrate tests involve a later step (step two or three, depending on the brand) that uses a super-concentrated solution of reagent. The reagent is supposed to be in saturated concentration in the solution, but in reality what happens is if a single crystal forms within the bottle, then rapidly a crystallization takes place of the active reagent, taking most of the reagent out of solution and into the crystal. This can happen relatively rapidly once any crystal structure happens within the bottle.
Naturally, the manufacturers, in their great wisdom, don't see fit to provide this solution in see-thru bottles, so one could see this phenomenon!
So, in a nitrate test kit, there is usually one bottle that the instructions say "shake before use" and what they really mean is "bang that sucker on the table enough to break up the larger crystal, then shake that dude about five minutes to put that crystal back into solution until the solution is saturated again or your results will be false and useless." And dangerously under reported, in the case of nitrate ppms.
A mere 30 seconds of kinda-paying-attention-shaking DOESN'T do it iffen y'all got a crystal in that non-see-thru bottle. (Hmmmmmmm... at this point, DK's mind thinks to her ultrasonic cleaner... hmmmmmm.... hmmmmmm.)
So, recently, when DK gotter new nitrate test (see above), she discovered nitrates in her tap, then they seemed
to wane over the next weeks.
But yesterday, she found out that the nitrates have been there all along, and the crystal has been growing in her "Nitrate Solution Two" bottle.
So beware, folks. That Nitrate Solution Two is like a bottle of honey, inside. Once you start to get the crystals, you gotta stop and reverse the process, or the test is useless. Just like one little crystal in your honey jar turns your honey to a solid mass.
Time to deploy the floater farm
. And switch out the nitrate/phosphate injection vat for high phosphate...
An interesting aside, here. DK meets a lotta peeps, from various places. In one place, she met a guy who farms honeybees, and produces honey. Of course, she hadda pick his brain, about this process. What she learned is that honey is a super concentrated sugar solution, and commerical honey has to have a specific range of moisture to be approved for sale. Too little moisture, and the shelf life is shot, as the honey rapidly crystallizes and is not appealing to buyers. Too high a moisture content, and you run the risk of mold in the honey, plus it's runny. She then had to collect extensive free samples from said peep, and concluded that honey is sweet and delicious. As a matter of fact, said peep surprised her with a few jars of "unacceptably wet" honey that was just over the moisture content allowable. "Take the lid off and let it dry out a few days in the winter when the air is dry," says HoneyFarmer, "and there's no problem with it." So, she did.
IN OTHER NEWS:
ASAslider project 08
We want to prevent, for this project, the outer rail from sliding along inside the mounting casing.
So, we see there is a plastic part on the end of the outer rail, and a hole on the end of the mounting casing.
We drill a hole in the plastic part, corresponding to the hole location in the casing when lined up.
Select a suitable pop rivet.
No more sliding.