The Planted Tank Forum banner

Tank idea, and moving water.

977 views 7 replies 7 participants last post by  PlantedRich 
#1 ·
We have six feet of wall in our home that is a transition area from one area to the next, about 5' wide from the wall to the next 'obstacle'.

The idea for a 6' long tank came up as I had a 3' reef tank there for a while. Research has turned up a couple tanks 6' long by 18" wide and 18" deep. Pretty sure that would work. Thinking lowtech type simple planted tank with a few BIG schools of small fish.

So at six feet long but narrow, it seems a lot of opportunity for dead spots etc exists. Rough idea for filtration is a good sized canister, or two small ones, and perhaps a couple power filters or power heads or both. Certainly two heaters to avoid a gradient. Do I set the water to flow from one end to the other or create general chaos with power heads or power filters (considering them for the OhSnap moments)? Someplace here there is my homebuilt wavemaker, a random timer for powerheads. That could be used if need be.

Perhaps my stocking plan will make a difference. Thinking of 3 or 4 big schools, say 30-40 small tetras/rasboras/corys/danios. Simple low light, slow growing plants and some natural visual barriers.

Just trying to plan for the best chance of success. Sorry it is long, after a lot of reading I think I'm more confused.
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Flowing from one end to the other is a specialized set up for something like hillstream loaches. Do not do this for a regular tank.

Do not create chaos. It will result in dead spots, debris settling in odd locations and is generally a poor way to utilize the equipment.

The traditional spray bar is the right way to look at this. One can or two (I like the idea of 2 for this long tank), and 2 (or more) spray bars across the back. They do not have to fill all the way across the back, but equally spread. But they will spray the water toward the front, it will be deflected down then deflected again across the substrate toward the back, where the intakes are.
You could handle this tank with 2 Aquaclear 110 filters, which are hang on back style.
Once you get the tank set up and filters going you may find dead spots, depends on your hardscape. This is where you can add a power head, aiming to keep the debris moving out of the dead spot(s) toward the filter intakes. You are not creating chaos, you are enhancing the one flow pattern.
 
#4 ·


Fish can be stupid, this morning I found one danio trapped between the glass and the bottom half of a round river pebble.... and one swimming under the media in my hang on hob.

they are both going about their business again...
 
#7 ·
By you description, you are looking at a 120-150 gallon tank. I use 2 Rena xp3(API xp-l) cannisters on my 125g. Outputs at each end with intakes crisscrossed about 18 inches from each end. This works very well for my setup. More than enough filter capacity, creates plenty of current without being overpowering.
As for tank weight, if your stand is designed with a continuous bottom you will have far less strain on the floor than if it had individual legs.

 
#8 ·
I have a long tank and find dead spots are almost a given with the décor I use. Large rocks or wood will block or deflect the current and that leaves a dead spot on the far side. So rather than try to sort out where those spots will be, I just use extra powerheads to get several of those spots worked out. But then what doesn't move along will settle under and around things. And I find that is fine with me as rivers and lakes look like that.
How to hide the debris? Let lots of plants grow and the debris is under them!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top