50/50 tap and RO/DI need conditioner? - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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50/50 tap and RO/DI need conditioner?

If I am using a 50/50 blend do I need water conditioner?

WHat about straight RO/DI do I need water conditioner?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 06:59 PM
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Anytime tap water is involved you will need water conditioner.

For all RO/DI water, you do not need water conditioner. Some people still use it just in case but if it's good quality ro/di water then you should be fine. You will need to use a remineralizer tho to get back all of the minerals and nutrients into the water that a shrimp needs
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tanman19az View Post
Anytime tap water is involved you will need water conditioner.

For all RO/DI water, you do not need water conditioner. Some people still use it just in case but if it's good quality ro/di water then you should be fine. You will need to use a remineralizer tho to get back all of the minerals and nutrients into the water that a shrimp needs
Yeh the all RO/DI I am using for cardinal shrimp with salty shrimp 8


50/50 with half amount of conditioner for crs and oebts

thx
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 10:40 PM
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I use straight r/o with my 55/30 gallon tanks. I've not had a single problem using straight r/o. I started the tanks off with a 50/50 blend but slowly worked to R/O only. I use the full line of Seachem products, minus the buffers. Plants are doing fine, fish are doing fine.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-09-2013, 10:51 PM
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Do you not remineralize with anything?

I've taken to using straight RO water for changes but I do add a GH booster after I'm done filling. Fish don't seem particularly stressed about it, plants are fine.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 03:12 AM
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I do seachem liquid ferts, no gh booster. It drops for about an hour, then sits at 730-750 until I change it, or I see it start to rise. 750 seems to be about perfect for my tank. My convicts just paired and about an hour ago I watched him hump the slate wall.

I turn my fluval 305 off 30 min before I do a water change. I made my own vac out of tubing from ace. Sucks the buttom but doesn't kick up poop everywhere. I change the water, turn it on full blast and gradually kick it down to the 3rd notch when i see the tds reach where I want it. I let the water sort its self out. It took some trial and error.

R/o is just blank slate water. If you have good bio in your filter it will blend quickly.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 03:22 AM
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730-750 what?
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 03:34 AM
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Sorry, 750 tds
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 04:02 AM
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How is it possible to have a TDS that high using RO water? When I was still using straight tap water with a TDS out of the tap at 360 my TDS in my tanks was only at most in the low to mid 400's.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 07-10-2013, 04:53 AM
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R/o water is 000 before it goes in. From my undetstanding anything below 1500 is technically safe for fresh water. I've had the fluval up amd running for 6 months. I'm going to rise part of the media for the first time at the end of the month. My tanks have always been happy when I don't mess with them. My goal over the next few months is to step it down to the 300 range. I want to do it in small amounts. Larger water changes, I just stepped up to 15 gallons a week this month. My uncle was an old school fish guy. Ran a store in jonesboro for years. I'm far from traditional methods. Its worked on all of my other tanks over the years. This is my first time with live plants. Bit of a learning curve lol
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