Algae Problems With Fluctuating City Water Quality - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-07-2012, 01:39 AM
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Location: New York City.
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Hahahaah...the OP has all the answers. Why posting here? Yeah, is the city water. What? No CO2. 10 hours of light. 200w+ T5HO light in a 75g tank. Underdosing ferts. Surely, that can't be the algae farm I am trying so far to setup.

For the OP, let's get real. Anything you have told us so far are the perfect conditions to grow algae. The city water is the least you have to worry about. If you worry so much about the city water, go use RO water.

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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-07-2012, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Location: scarborough,ontario
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Diana: Thank you for your input it is much appreciated I have my tank here ready to go in if boosting the nitrates and my other efforts do not work out. unfortunately it would seem my burkert 6011 is not functioning and stuck shut I'm looking into replacing/ repairing it now.

Tetra: OP? not following you. I have used this amount of light with no CO2 in an established and well planted tank before with little to no algae issues in different water. Please note although I have approximately 220 watts of light I've only been using half of this at 110 watts and since the first week of running the tank photo period has dropped to 9 hours. Furthermore these bulbs are a year old it is my opinion they have lost a lot of their intensity.

As far as under dosing, in the first week I had green water and was doing blackouts. Doesn't make sense to dose when GW is an issue to me. Soon after this was cleared the Filamentous and cyano started showing up. I guessed phosphates were my problem & addressed it with Phoslock. Didn't do much so now I'm dosing Nitrate to see how the tank reacts. I plan to begin dosing regular levels at regular intervals soon but I feel it is necessary to get a hold on the city water parameters before I begin dosing. Being in a new city with a new water supply means that the way I used to run my aquariums and the nutrient dosing I had previously used is not going to be exactly the same. I am still in the process of figuring it out, it has been about a month and I'd say I'm beginning to get a grasp.

I had a 40 gal with a 2 x 65 watt PC on a Tang tank before with Anubis java moss and java ferns on a 10 Hour photo period with no CO2 in my previous house and the only algae I ever dealt with was some green spot and a bit of green fuzz when I got lazy with water changes.

Anyways since maintaining N levels growth of the green filamentous algae has dropped and the cyano is starting to slow down a bit. I want to begin dosing P and K now but I'm not sure if this is the best plan since I'm still battling it out with cyano. any thoughts?

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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 10-07-2012, 05:30 PM
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Well, you are back to trying to figure out what the city water is offering to the tank.
However, when in doubt, dose more then do a large water change would normally be my suggestion. That way you know the plants are not deficient for the things that you can control.
ANY water change (no matter if the tap water is really stable from week to week or variable) will create changing levels of nutrients for the tank.

Given that your lights are getting old that might be another issue to address. If you are still seeing the light as 'OK', that does not mean that it is still OK through the whole spectrum. The plant specific wavelengths may have dropped off more than you think.

If you are having problems with the CO2, then I think that is more important than the fertilizers.

I would address things in this order:

Fix the lights (new bulbs)
Fix the CO2
Dose something like EI (no limiting ferts, no matter what the tap water is doing)
Remove algae by hand

Then monitor the tank for plant growth and algae.

Continue to record the variations in the tap water so you can figure out if you need to alter something. If you find something you want to alter, then do this before the water change, run the water into a barrel and do whatever changes you feel will help.

Another thing you can look into is reverse osmosis for the house. This will remove the 'variable tap water' from the puzzle.
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