Plumbing for converted Wet/DRY CO2 loss? - Page 2 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #16 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 02:38 AM Thread Starter
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30knicks: so your are suggesting that a build a diy reactor and uae a ball valve? Do you have a pic of your setup and a link to the build instructions. Thanks
Satan: is this similar to a diy reactor. Have you have better reaults with this than a reactor. Would this replace my mag7?
Thanks guys for the thorough replies.
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post #17 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 04:02 AM
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I would first turn your CO2 up a bit, and make sure you are properly circulating in the tank. I've seen a few discharges that are right at the top level of the tank. My y-locks point almost straight down, and a Hydor pushes a current along the bottom. Stay with the needle wheel chop method. It is pretty effective despite the seltzer water look. Get your plants up and running and then work on other less seltzer methods.

Remember, the water that is offgassing CO2 has left the tank. Focus on gassing up the water going into the tank.

Play around with your set up at each step of the way. See what works. don't skimp on the CO2, and don't just rely on the drop checker. Your plants will tell you that you're doing good. The drop checker is just one tool in the tool box.

You can see in the picture the CO2 line(green) just after the pump. Water goes through a UV light (small black tube on the wall) and enters my monster reactor (3" PVC- oh yeah).
You can barely see the ball valve on the return from the reactor. I have it throttled down just a little bit. I watched how many bubbles were spitting out as my measure; only after the CO2 has been on for a while in the morming. As CO2 builds through the day in the reactor, bubbles spit out in the evening regardless.

Hope this helps

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post #18 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 07:22 AM
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Curious, Why the split of the bulbs on and off during the light cycle? I would run them all for the full duration of the photo period, and I would suggest turning on your CO2 about an hour before lights on and turning it off an hour before light off. I would also extend your photo period to longer then 8 hours. same with the CO2. A reactor works wonders. Very little bubbles in the tank GREAT Co2 mix into the water. Dissolves the Co2 much more thoroughly. Im running a Cerges style reactor and love it. Of course with a reactor I run a much higher bubble count. Just some thoughts..

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post #19 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 12:46 PM
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restricting the outflow of pump is not bad, restrictin the inflow is very bad.. it causes the pump to cavitate..

@Aquaticfan
people split bulbs during the light cycle to keep light low enough to prevent algae and high enough to give good coloring.. i used to run the same system, but here lately i just run all 4
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post #20 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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Light. The tank is 72g. The lights are only about 6 inches from glass top. The bulbs are 2 55w and 2 65w. I thought that was too much light to have on all day. Its a reef lamp and I thought fw with plants does not need as much.

Reactor. I have an old small eheim canister filter. Can I remove the inards of it and have it run thru the output of the return pump and then to the tank. This seems the same as the stufff you guys built. The co2 would still go into the mag7 and get chopped up.

Thanks
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post #21 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 05:09 PM
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Wolf-
Quote:
restricting the outflow of pump is not bad, restrictin the inflow is very bad.. it causes the pump to cavitate..
I agree.

I have a different take on light. I would say blast the light for an extended mid day burst, and monitor plants. Taper down accordingly. Watch for algae growth. You have to get your CO2 up first.

Remember more light and plants need more CO2, more ferts. Too much light is bad when U are growing algae, or when your plants are growing too fast and you are tired of clipping. High light to get the tank going, and then taper down, IMO. I still run pretty high light with 4- t5 bulbs for 5-6 hrs (9hr total period). I am cultivating stems and want them to grow quick.

Try the canister, why not? You'll learn something either way. A PVC reactor is pretty cheap to build if an when you go that route.

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post #22 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HD Blazingwolf View Post
restricting the outflow of pump is not bad, restrictin the inflow is very bad.. it causes the pump to cavitate..

@Aquaticfan
people split bulbs during the light cycle to keep light low enough to prevent algae and high enough to give good coloring.. i used to run the same system, but here lately i just run all 4
I figured that was the case. I guess for me it doesn't make sense. Ive felt if you have the nutrients in the substrate and water column, pressurized Co2 and your water parms are good you shouldn't have to do that with your lights. Just run them all for the photo period. Algae shouldn't be an issue if all is in balance. Fast growth of course is a definite. But to me that's not a bad thing as long as its quality growth and not just quantity.

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post #23 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 05:32 PM
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On a side note, I have been toying with the idea of building a Cerges style reactor out of a water purifying canister. If you use an old filter caniter, its pretty much the same if your sump pump is driving the flow. The inlet/outlets on the canister may be too small, though. Not sure.

I think having a coarse sponge to trap residual bubbles is my missing link. You just can't put in sponges into the PVC style since you need to clean then on occasion.

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post #24 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30king View Post
On a side note, I have been toying with the idea of building a Cerges style reactor out of a water purifying canister. If you use an old filter caniter, its pretty much the same if your sump pump is driving the flow. The inlet/outlets on the canister may be too small, though. Not sure.

I think having a coarse sponge to trap residual bubbles is my missing link. You just can't put in sponges into the PVC style since you need to clean then on occasion.
I like my cerges reactor a lot. It didn't kill the flow of my canisters output. It works very well at dissolving the co2 at close to 100%. I don't run any media or sponges in my cerges reactor. It does like to have a pretty high bps rate. I'm easily at 10 bps or more.

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post #25 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 05:39 PM
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Aquaticfan- Im like you I run more high light than not. I like my tank bright is one reason. I agree if all the stuff is in balance and plants grow quality, why not. I taper down enough so trimming does not get ridiculous. A while back I went on vaca for a week, and did not turn down the lights. My fast growers (sunset hygro) had my angels almost pinned to the glass. Pretty funny.

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post #26 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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old filter canister: if the in/out's are too small what would happen. I want to slow the flow anyway. What i am hoping for in using canister after the pump has chopped up the c02, is that the CO2 has more time to disolve, Correct? Is this the similar to the way the Cerges works, except mine is already chopped up a bit.
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post #27 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 05:44 PM
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Cerges, PVC both pretty much the same. Water in through the top, mixes with CO2, exits out the bottom of the canister. Cerges you can open up and clean. PVC you cannot (generally). PVC only a few buck, a saw and glue. Cerges a bit more for canister, more technical to adapt the fittings (still pretty easy)

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post #28 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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i meant what i am doing with the old filter canister is the same as a Cerges, so it should have some positive effects.
Would the smaller if the in/out's just slow the flow?
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post #29 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 06:21 PM
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I wouldn't make the ones and outs smaller. But you would need to modify your filter internally to act like a cerges with some pvc tubing . I also know you don't. Want to send chopped up co2 and water into the reactor as it won't mix properly. You could put bioballs inside the reactor chamber to break it up and disolve it more if you do leave it chopped. But the micro bubbles in the water won't collect inside the reactor and they will just pass through. On a reactor your counting on the slow larger upward flow of the co2 going against the waters downward current.

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post #30 of 47 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 09:00 PM
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braddi- I was actually thinking the inlet outlet of the canister may be too small. I have an old magnum canister and it uses 1/2" hose, while I am currently plumbing everything with 3/4" (a quarter inch loss is significant in water volume)

While you can (and may want to) reduce flow a bit, you don't want to reduce too much. Reactors need a decent amount of flow to dissolve the rapid injection of CO2, or they may fill up with gas (esp at 4-8 bubbles per sec) or spit out big bubbles (burping). If your set up constantly burps big volumes of gas, something is wrong and you are wasting CO2.

Again, give it a try; it may work out just fine.

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