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Originally Posted by intermediate_noob
Do you think that a half-inch panel is better than a 11/32" (3/8")? The reason I ask is that is the size of router bit I got to cut the slot for the groove in the stiles and rails of the doors. I was actually thinking of using 3/4" plywood for the rails and stiles and then use 3/8" (Or 23/32 and 11/32) for the panel. I know the edge of the plywood will show, but I am wanting the doors to be inset into the face frame so I was not too worried.
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I am having a hard time visualizing what you are saying above, especially with the "rails and stiles". You plan on using plywood to create the frame for the panel?
As far as the panel thickness, it is up to you, really. I would imagine that a dado on a piece of lumber that is roughly 3/4" is going to be eaiser with a thinner pannel/dado. I see no problem with reducing the size down to 3/8". That should be plenty ridgid enough for the application, as the completed door will be pretty sturdy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by intermediate_noob
Did you use biscuits for the corners of your doors or just glue? I am wondering if I could just use my pocket hole jig to do it as well.
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I just used glue, but bisuits or your pocket hole jig would be better. My plan is to use some of those brass L brackets on the front and back of each corner. I wanted to keep everything streight and add a bit of flash to the look. It isn't going to be as solid as one of the joinery methods that you mentioned though.
Quote:
Originally Posted by intermediate_noob
I think I am over-complicating things as I was going to go the whole mortising and tenon-ing the rails and stiles and doing the doors that route. I like your way a lot better.
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Mortise and tennons will be a hell of a lot stronger than what I have suggested. It will also be a lot more complicated to execute although not impossible. I wouldn't bother as I don't think it is necessary to the design. If you were talking about something that was going to be loadbearing or structural integrity was paramount then it would be the way to go.
I figure 10 years down the road if my doors fall apart, the most I will have do do is make a new set of doors. I would have to find a new method of construction, obviously.
I built a similar set of doors for a custom iguana cage I made about 18 years ago. Those doors were not as well made, and I followed a similar method to make them. They are still holding up fine. I figure my doors will work atleast that long.
