Need help with my tank... - The Planted Tank Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 04:19 AM Thread Starter
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Need help with my tank...

*posted in another area but I didn't get any luck*

This is my first time using ADA Amazonia and so far I don't even know what I'm doing wrong.

I first started this tank in mid June of 2012

PH 6.4
Nitrite 0
Ammonia 0
Nitrate 20 PPM WTF!?!?

So far this tank has been a "planted tank" since mid july after I ended up killing some shrimp *nitrates were at 5ppm so I thought it was fine, only a few died, I moved the rest." The weird thing about it all is that when I had shrimp they got berried. Most of the time if the waters bad they will refuse to mate.

So I've been noticing a lot of my plants are dying or wilting. I Also my plants get a coating of the dirt/debris from the substrate. I don't think this should be happening. I do run my tank with air bubbles. I don't have a canister filter. *too expensive for me*



This is what my tank looks like. Well there are more plants now.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 04:28 AM
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Do you have Co2 system ?
Some plants really need Co2
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 04:47 AM
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Just from looking at it, you need more vegetation (lush plants) in your tank. Floaters also help with balancing a tank.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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I don't have CO2 because I dont have a diffuser, I could do a simple DIY Yeast. Should I try using CO2 for now just to help the plants grow?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 07:22 AM
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you do need more plants. bitrates apparently is the least appealing to the plant appetite they will use ammonia and nitrites before nitrates. you will need more plants to maintain the parameters at zero.

I've ran 1gal-2.5 gallon planted tanks. and the only way i can get them to have stable parameters without a filter is by having an over abundance of plants.

you need fast growing stem plants and floaters to act as a buffer for the parameters otherwise the margin of error is too narrow and the death of one plant will cause dangerous spikes.

none of these looks great, but they work as great nitrogen free systems

This is what my tanks looks/ed like
betta tank

shrimp tank

uh... a jar. housed 5 minnows in 1-1.5 gallons of water with no ammonia, nitrite or nitrates :P never got a water change either!

1 gallon jar which housed ... 2cories 2otos 3 endlers 6cherry shrimp and... a million snails? This is the tank that started it all for me XD I was trying to set up a self sustaining system
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aznrice247 View Post
*posted in another area but I didn't get any luck*

This is my first time using ADA Amazonia and so far I don't even know what I'm doing wrong.

I first started this tank in mid June of 2012

PH 6.4
Nitrite 0
Ammonia 0
Nitrate 20 PPM WTF!?!?

So far this tank has been a "planted tank" since mid july after I ended up killing some shrimp *nitrates were at 5ppm so I thought it was fine, only a few died, I moved the rest." The weird thing about it all is that when I had shrimp they got berried. Most of the time if the waters bad they will refuse to mate.

So I've been noticing a lot of my plants are dying or wilting. I Also my plants get a coating of the dirt/debris from the substrate. I don't think this should be happening. I do run my tank with air bubbles. I don't have a canister filter. *too expensive for me*



This is what my tank looks like. Well there are more plants now.
What kind of shrimp did you try to keep? Neos need harder water and without knowing your GH/KH/TDS, I wouldn't be surprised if the shrimp died due to a lack of water hardness. Crystals need clean, low nitrate water.

Also, to get your nitrates down, add more floaters and fast growing stems.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 11:25 AM
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Shrimp dying... Nitrate poisoning or lack of sufficient bacteria both as a food source or filtration. Shrimp tanks generally can get by on biological filtration alone however active substrate requires additional finesse due to leeching underwater. The best approach is to plant densely, as weber mentions while preforming water changes.

The dusting is due to lack of mechanical filtration. Biological sponge filters only deal with the chemistry and not the debris and inevitable deters buildup.

There appears to be a slight green haze around the glass so I suspect algae building up.
If you have medium light running for extended durations, algae will usually show this. The additional light is forcing your plants to grow faster towards the light. If there is insufficient nutrients, the the leaves will likely show deficiencies by yellowing, fraying or develop holes.

Shrimpers always quote gh, kh, and ph first and foremost as these are vital parameters to determine whether the tank is suitable for specific breeds. Ammonia, nitrates and nitrides are quoted by general aquarists referring to the overall condition of the tank.

Need the gh and kh and name of the breed kept allow for more specific advice.
If the tank is still leeching and not stabilized yet, I'd recommend several water changes over several days to bring the nitrates down.

I would also add a hob filter and more plants... Like five times more.

My moss grow out tank is a 5 gallon with a 23w 6500k cfl above running 8 hours a day, sometimes three hours more due to me servicing or collecting specimens at night. There is absolutely no algae in the tank and floaters that are covering 1/3 of the tank. If you aren't able to get that sort of plant density immediately, grab a ton of floaters. These guys will be a nice place holder until you do. These guys are the worker plants of planted tanks and will clean and clear your water chemically to soak up nitrates.

I absolutely dose no ferts in the tank but everything that I test plant grows fast and colors up. I dodose this tank with beneficial bacteria and have a healthy colony of prl and pfr working as gardeners.

All in all, your tank is in imbalance. Need to get there and the rest is cake.

"I am Groot", the faithful protector
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 05:04 PM
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Co2 is helping balance your PH and Nitrate , and you also need change 25%-30% water before you try DIY co2
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aznrice247 View Post
I don't have CO2 because I dont have a diffuser, I could do a simple DIY Yeast. Should I try using CO2 for now just to help the plants grow?
You don't need a diffuser to do Co2 does it help yes is it a must nope.

You can run a DIY Co2 setup with an air stone on the end of the tube you might also want to build a Diy Diffuser to make it more efficient, tons of how to's on you-tube.

As for a Canister Filter check out ebay or amazon for the Sun Sun canister filters I have a 303B W/UV Light for under 100$ on Amazon 2 weeks ago had it up and running and it quiet and has a good flow rate in my 55g with out the UV light the go for about 50-60$ about the same as a good HOB filter but with lots of space for Bio Media and mechanical filtration. I like to toss in some chemi pure to absorb all the toxic heavy metals and to help keep phosphates in check.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aznrice247 View Post
I don't have CO2 because I dont have a diffuser, I could do a simple DIY Yeast. Should I try using CO2 for now just to help the plants grow?
Wooden chopstick stuffed into the end of an airline works as bubbler. But really, add more plants. Nitrates heaven for them. Looks like Najas grass is the only one really feeding from the water column, add moooooore.

Hang in there.

"Heee-eerree fishy fishy fish!" -ernie
My tanks
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 05:09 PM
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Before , I did not use DIY CO2, my fish tank was not healthy and green

I try to use DIY CO2, it works very well, my fish tank looks very green
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 07:06 PM
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lighting's important too and plant compatibility with your tank parameters
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 10:12 PM
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He doesn't need CO2 atm. What he does need is more fast growing stems and floaters to use all the excess nitrate.

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