The idea to simulate a pond's edge is great, and you can do it quite easily. Instead of running a gradient, why not build up a wall with stone, wood, and bark to maintain the drier land section, without wasting the space (and substrate) necessary to create a sufficient gradient to provide the frogs with both sufficient swimming depth and land space? After that, you can artfully place the driftwood to create even more terrestrial space along with some alternative water exits.
The driftwood (as was your idea already) would work well to hide the filters and heaters behind. I think that you may have some difficulty finding use for both of the pumps, but in a tank of that size, you may very well be able to use them without their appearance becoming redundant.
You may consider using anubias, cryptocoryne, java fern, and other sturdier aquatic plants that grow well both immersed and emersed. Christmas moss looks great and grows densely both in and out of water. With your 2x55w of lighting, you're pretty limited to mid-to-low light plants, and even these will benefit from CO2 supplementation. I've used CO2 with Cynops orientalis with no ill effects, and I've read of people using CO2 with dwarf frogs, so it shouldn't negatively effect your amphibians; however, if you have a large amount of water turbulence (in the form of waterfalls,) it will be difficult to maintain high levels of saturation. For a low-tech carpet plant, you can try Glossostigma elatinoides, Marsiela minuta, Hemianthus micranthemoides, and perhaps Riccia fluitans. I'd probably stay away from lucky bamboo, as it can grow quite large.
As for your lighting, I'd stick with the AH Supply lights, but if you have more space left, you could implement it with the screw-in compact florescent clip lights. Opinions vary as to the depth you should use with the peat moss. Some don't bother with it, but those that use it vary between a thorough sprinkling to a full 1/2 inch depth. I imagine that it'd be fine to layer the shultz and flourite, but the less dense substrate will end up on the top. You can also consider topping the substrate with sand (especially if the foreground plants don't work out.) Keep in mind, however, that you should thoroughtly rinse the sand to be rid of the finest particles, which can suffocate roots and kill plants. Lastly, the white, fuzzy mold on the driftwood should deteriorate soon once it's cycled in the tank (and out of constant wetness.) This occurs often in terrariums, and after time, it phases away.
Good luck with your project, and keep us updated!
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