HC dying (Cyanobacteria + Green Water also) - The Planted Tank Forum

 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-09-2013, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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HC dying (Cyanobacteria + Green Water also)

Hello,

I am having a problem with my HC dying. I started using the dry start method. After I flooded the tank everything was going great for about 1.5 months. The HC and DHG belem were growing really well with lush growth. There was a problem with brown slime algae (diatoms I believe) but nothing major.

However after that the growth just seemed to stop on the HC. I also started getting green water and cyanobacteria. The DHG is still growing and looks great.

I don't have any fish in the tank. I started the filter on my established 30gal for one month. I tested for ammonia but didn't find any. I tried a black out but it didn't help with the cyanobacteria. I reduced my light intensity to combat the GW and cyanobacteria. I also tried upping the EI dosing. The HC is still dying.

My tank parameters/set up are as follows:

- Standard 10gal
- Two 13W GE 6500k spiral CF mounted vertically ~6" from the top of the water in desk lamps (I started with two 26W GE 6500k spiral CF before reducing to 13W each to help with algae)
- 8hour photoperiod
- Eheim 2211 filter
- Iwaki pump running Cerges style CO2 reactor (~250gph)
- ~25C temp
- EI dosing (5.4ppm NO3 + 3.2ppm PO4 + 9.9ppm K + 0.16 Fe (through Plantex CSM+B) 3x per week with 50% water change at the end of the week) Using this calculator: http://calc.petalphile.com/
- Tahitian moon sand substrate with osmocote plus at the bottom

I would like to try and save it before it all dies out. It had formed a really nice carpet. Any help to get that back would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Daniel
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-19-2013, 02:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dongo View Post
Hello,

I would like to try and save it before it all dies out. It had formed a really nice carpet. Any help to get that back would be appreciated.


Daniel
I feel your pain here as I seem to be in the same situation, although my tank is 125 gallon and i found i could not grow HC so i went to glossy which really started to carpet nicely. The brown algae has hit my other plants but my Nerite snails are now dealing with that. My biggest concern is the BGA that seems to be coating my Glossy.

People mention that BGA smells really bad but what I have noticed is that it just has a really strong green grass smell. Maybe the foul smell comes after?
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone have any suggestions? The DHG is doing fine but the HC continues to die slowly. I doubled my EI dosing which seemed to help the HC but i is still dying slowly.

Daniel
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 08:17 PM
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i have the exact same prob with my tank. im currently dosing algaefix to see if it will help kill off the BGA. this is the 2nd day and im seeing no results. so i'll post tomorrow on the 3rd day to see if there is any change
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-20-2013, 08:39 PM
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Re: HC dying (Cyanobacteria + Green Water also)

If change in kno3 does not remove bga, u can try as last resort antibiotics. It helped in my case.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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I have tried upping the KNO3 but not much luck. I know antibiotics would kill it but I am afraid I am missing the root cause.

Daniel
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 02:40 AM
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You could break down and buy a UV sterilizer. Run it for about a week (maybe longer depending on size), and the green water will be gone. You can then take it out and use it if it ever happens again. I know some people get all nervous about killing the bacteria in the water column, but sometimes you just have to fix the problems in your tank. After I did this, I had no ammonia or nitrite spikes, and my fish were fine, so I guess it couldn't have affected the good bacteria too negatively. It zapped all the green water within days. You can get a UV sterilizer that does the job for 80-90 bucks.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2013, 12:59 PM
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My first response would be the sand and heavy dosing. Sand has little or no CEC value and dosing the water column is not helping HC which absorbs food through the roots. I would start over with dirt or ADA aquasoil or something that would provide nutrients for the roots. You seemed to have missed the point of a DSM by using straight sand. :-(
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-17-2013, 02:05 AM
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strange. maybe upping the co2? what is the ppm you have now?

I transitioned my dsm with exactly the same sand, no root tabs and medium par and green co2 drop checker. I also had some cyano but ruthlessly chopped out all the parts that had cyano daily. it didn't come back after about a week.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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I don't know what the CO2 level is. I just have it turned up to where the reactor can no longer dissolve any more.

DSM worked just fine with the sand. The problems only started a couple of months after flooding.

Daniel
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-27-2013, 08:46 PM
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As Patrunkenphat said, a UV sterilizer will get rid of the green water quickly- so that's a good start.
As for the cyanobacteria, Dongo, is a lot of it covering the HC ?

As you may know, cyano usually develops in low/bottom areas of the tank, mainly on substrate, where there is insufficient water circulation, a lack of oxygen, and generally an accumulation of detritus, waste, decomposing plant matter, etc.

It can be effectively removed by spot dosing with H202 (household hydrogen peroxide), where oxygen bubbles will build up on it, and eradicate it, usually overnight, but it may require 2 or more dosings on subsequent days.

It works very well, and if you wish, I'd be glad to provide you with the exact procedure for successfully doing so.

Once it disappears, and in order to prevent it from returning, all you need do is a good clean-up of the bottom levels/substrate/ground cover, and increase/improve water circulation within the tank - this can easily be achieved using a circulation pump, properly positioned, which would also provide oxygenation at the lower levels of your tank. A spray/power bar would also help, as would improved filtration.

Once that is done, you could then concentrate on bringing health back your deteriorating plants.
Hope this helps.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-28-2013, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by discuspaul View Post
As Patrunkenphat said, a UV sterilizer will get rid of the green water quickly- so that's a good start.
As for the cyanobacteria, Dongo, is a lot of it covering the HC ?

As you may know, cyano usually develops in low/bottom areas of the tank, mainly on substrate, where there is insufficient water circulation, a lack of oxygen, and generally an accumulation of detritus, waste, decomposing plant matter, etc.

It can be effectively removed by spot dosing with H202 (household hydrogen peroxide), where oxygen bubbles will build up on it, and eradicate it, usually overnight, but it may require 2 or more dosings on subsequent days.

It works very well, and if you wish, I'd be glad to provide you with the exact procedure for successfully doing so.

Once it disappears, and in order to prevent it from returning, all you need do is a good clean-up of the bottom levels/substrate/ground cover, and increase/improve water circulation within the tank - this can easily be achieved using a circulation pump, properly positioned, which would also provide oxygenation at the lower levels of your tank. A spray/power bar would also help, as would improved filtration.

Once that is done, you could then concentrate on bringing health back your deteriorating plants.
Hope this helps.
Thanks man! I dose potassium and excel already, ill input everything you all have gave me ! Thanks everyone!
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-29-2013, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DogChristopher View Post
My first response would be the sand and heavy dosing. Sand has little or no CEC value and dosing the water column is not helping HC which absorbs food through the roots. I would start over with dirt or ADA aquasoil or something that would provide nutrients for the roots. You seemed to have missed the point of a DSM by using straight sand. :-(

This is actually a good point. For the past year that I have been looking into going soil substrate, I have yet to see anyone do a dsm with sand. Not saying it can't be done for I don't have soil or sand tanks currently. Sand only substrates can be filled day one with root tabs. They pretty much have to be setup this way. Soil based substrates leech loads of nutrients into the water column which is one of the reasons to go dsm. It presents fewer issues compared to a fill and go setup and gives the plants a head start to out compete algae.

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