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post #6 of (permalink) Old 02-28-2013, 04:13 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 3,349
Ed, regrouping these according to category:

Originally Posted by Ed's Fish Tank View Post
1. STOP all ferts.
5. Do water changes of 10gal every 4 days or so as to not shock the fish.
10. After you do all the above, you might want to get an API Phosphate PO4 test kit. If you have high phosphates, which I suspect, then you can CUT them down easily by adding a second HOB fliter, like a Fluval 30 or 50 and pack it with API Ammo-Chips AND API Phos-Zorb.
12. You should also check the substrate for iron content. This will help the plants grow, so when things settle down and you have clear water, then you might not have to use so much ferts or CO2. Your plants are small and don't "really" need much now except the nitrates from the good bacteria.
13. When you do see plant growth, go easy on the ferts! (err on the side of less is more)
I've noticed you recommending severe nutrient limitation in several of your recent posts, despite having been told by multiple folks that excess ferts don't cause algae. Let me see if I can explain this better.

I run a tank with 30ppm phosphate and I don't have green water, or other algae.

Yes, limiting phosphates to near zero will in fact reduce green water, by starving it out. It does need nutrients to grow, but nutrients are not what causes it to grow. If anything is responsible for that, it's an excess of organic wastes, rather than chemical ferts.

Reducing fertilization is therefore not addressing the cause. In fact, it's often counterproductive, because the plants may starve too. Limit any one of their nutrients and it limits their uptake of them all - including their ability to remove organic wastes, and prevent algae. Starve them enough and they start to decompose, actually becoming organic waste and actually encouraging algae growth.

It's absolutely no surprise you have a persistent diatom bloom in your tank, with your water nitrates levels at zero, your phosphate adsorbing resins, and nearly inert substrate.

Originally Posted by Ed's Fish Tank View Post
6. Use only a pinch of fish food, like Omega One Flakes. Only feed once a day. Some flake foods contain phosphates as preservatives. Check the Tetra label for phosphates!
All fish food contains phosphates. It's a natural and necessary component of food, without which fish would die. Some are higher than others, though that's really only an issue in non-planted and saltwater tanks.

Originally Posted by Ed's Fish Tank View Post
7. Your pH is LOW, check your tap water for pH and if low or if you are using a water softener, then you might consider bypassing it somehow.
8. Setup and run an airstone ALL the time. Algae die off robs O2 from the water.
14. And whatever you do DON'T try to raise the pH with liquid chemicals! Shoot for a pH that's around 7.5. Then, the fish waste will naturally lower it. Then, you raise it back up again with WC's! Simple! The WC's alone should be enough to gradually raise the pH.
Digital1's tank has CO2 injection, which is lowering the pH, and is normal.
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