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Cheap lighting - ODNO

155K views 279 replies 62 participants last post by  ammar152 
#1 ·
Some aquarists seem to have unlimited budgets. Their tanks are outfitted with high dollar lights and the latest technology in controllers and monitoring electronics. But let's face it, most of us are on a tight budget. We want to provide the best environment for our fish and plants, but we are usually forced to compromise to stay within a fixed income situation.

Here's where I want to help. One of the most expensive components (perhaps even the single most expensive) of a planted tank is the lighting. Metal Halide lighting being the ultimate, yet most expensive option, Power Compacts seem to be a popular choice for planted aquaria. Bulbs are expensive, though, and fixtures aren't within the reach of every hobbyist, either.

For a standard 4 foot long aquarium such as a 55 gallon (as well as an AGA 75, 90 and 120) the popular poor man's light setup consists of a shop light or two. The sheet metal strip lights cost roughly $6-$10 and house two standard 40 watt tubes. For about $40, you can crowd four 40 watt tubes over your tank and end up with a total of about 12,000 lumens. This is enough to keep most moderate-intense light demanding plants, but it can get quite crowded having four bulbs on a 55g.

Ok, here's the ticket, then... Overdriven Normal Output Flourescent lighting (ODNO). Most bulbs get their super long life (20,000 hours+) by running much cooler, at lower current levels than they are capable of. This is great for office lighting or other industrial applications where energy efficiency and bulb life are the most important factors. But we want to cram as much light over our small tanks as possible.

An overdriven F32T8 bulb will produce about 6500 lumens. Why the smaller 1" diameter T8 bulbs? They're more efficient and produce more lumens/watt. Two of these ODNO T8 bulbs will make more light than four 1 1/4" T12 bulbs in the aforementioned shop lights.

How does it work? The output of an electronic ballast designed for driving four F32T8 bulbs is coupled to one bulb as such:


If two bulbs are desired, two ballasts need to be purchased. The intensity these lights put out is amazing. More intense than a 55w Power Compact bulb, and far cheaper to replace bulbs. The bulbs get considerably warmer than normal, but not even as hot as a PC bulb. A fan is useful to help extend bulb life, which should be approximately 1-2 years.

This method is also applicable to various other bulb sizes. I am using a 2-F32T8 ballast to drive two 18" bulbs with 64 watts total (normally 30w).

Here's where I read about it...

Reef Central Thread
 
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#2 · (Edited)
ODNO Faq

To help answer some of the questions surrounding ODNO, I've decided to edit this post and create an FAQ. It will be updated from time to time, as more questions arise.

What type of light output will I see with my setup?
This isn't an easy question to answer since there will be many variations in output depending on bulb configuration, type, and the make of ballast you are using. In general, though, these are the increases one can expect to see with ODNO:
  • 2xODNO (2 power leads per bulb) - ~50% increase
  • 3xODNO (3 power leads per bulb) - ~75% increase
  • 4xODNO (4 power leads per bulb) - ~100% increase
For example: For a single 48" F40T12 40 watt bulb being powered by 4 power leads (4xODNO), you can expect the equivalent about 80 watts of output (100% more than normal).

Why don't I see four times the amount of light in a 4xODNO setup?
Not all of the electricity that you pump into a bulb is converted into light. Even in normal output (NO) fluorescent lighting, some of that electricity is lost as heat. The more electricity you pump in, the more that is lost as heat. So in a 4xODNO setup, you lost more than half of the energy you're putting in to heat. That is why a fan is recommended for any ODNO setup.

What about series type ODNO setups?
In 'series type' ODNO setups, two bulbs are placed in line with each other (Shown Here). The ballast is 'tricked' into thinking it sees a bulb twice as big as each individual bulb by itself. So two 18" F15T8 15 watt bulbs placed in series will seem like a single 36" F30T8 bulb instead. So in a 2xODNO series type application with two F15T8 bulbs, you'd see 50% more light, which would result in 45 watts of output from the two 18" bulbs in series.

Can I put two 36" bulbs in series and make the ballast 'see' a six foot bulb?
Theoretically, you could, if you were able to find an electronic ballast rated to drive six foot bulbs. All 6' bulb ballasts on the market are generally magnetic so it is recommended that you do not put any bulb larger than 24" in series.


Can I use the magnetic ballast that came with my shop light or aquarium canopy?
No. You must use an electronic ballast. Not all types of electronic ballast might work with ODNO, but most should be able to with no problems. Here are a few known 'overdriveable' electronic ballasts:
  • Advance REL-4P32-SC
  • GE B432I120RH
  • Sylvania QT 4x32/120 IS-SC
  • Fulham Workhorse 5
I personally recommend the Workhorse 5 (which can be purchased at a local lighting supply store for around $20-$30) since it has the highest ballast factor (power output) and is more flexible than a conventional 4 bulb F32T8 electronic ballast. You can even drive 55w and 96w Power Compact bulbs with a Workhorse.

Is ODNO completely safe?
No. There is always risk when using electronics in a means not intended by a manufacturer. If you are not familiar with electronics, I recommend you invest in a premade canopy or a retrofit kit from a company such as www.ahsupply.com.
But if you are comfortable working with electronic devices, many many hobbyists have used ODNO setups for years without any problems. As long as the system is wired correctly and the bulbs light up rapidly without flickering, the system is perfectly safe and will provide reliable service for many years.

Is bulb life affected by ODNO?
Yes. The increased heat will cause a bulb to degenerate somewhat more rapidly. It is recommended that you replace your bulbs once every 12 months to keep light output at its peak.

Does ODNO affect color temperature and spectral output?
Possibly. This has not been documented, but the increased heat may cause the phosphors the shift their spectral output more rapidly than a normal output configuration. Fortunately, plants are very adaptable and the color shift should not affect growth if bulbs are properly maintained and replaced once a year. Saltwater reef aquariums using ODNO technology might benefit from a more aggressive bulb replacement schedule.

I will reiterate Planted Tank's Warning:
Warning: Use ODNO at your own risk. The Planted Tank and its affliates take no responsiblity for any damage/injuries that might occur.

If anyone notices any errors or has any additional questions you'd like answered in this FAQ, please post them on this thread.
 
#3 ·
Now that is cool. Too bad I already spent my $ on compact PC's. But theres a 180 or 250 gal tank in my future, and I'll be printing this thread and throwing it in my files.:cool:
 
#4 ·
It's cool, allright, as long as you put a fan on the system. But even without a fan, the overdriven NO bulbs get no hotter than a standard 55w PC bulb (which is pretty stinkin hot). I added a fan to my CSL PC strip and bulb life has increased tremendously.

I've got an old Perfecto twin strip hood for a 55 with some fried ballasts. I'm going to retrofit two of these ODNO ballasts into it and see how it looks. Might try to sell it, but shipping would probably be expensive.
 
#6 ·
Same here. But I was setting up a new reef tank so I decided to give a try anyway. Now I'm starting to re-think my planted tank lighting, hehe. I might ditch the Power Compact lights altogether and just stick with three overdriven 40w GE Plant & Aquarium bulbs. The PC bulbs are way too bluish for a planted tank, anyway. They belong on a reef.
 
#8 ·
I was running 8800K and they almost completely washed out my Gold Angels and made them look almost white/beige. I switched to 5500K and they are very much improved, but when they swim to the front of the tank, where the GE P&A bulbs are, their color is astounding. The Rasbora Tetras as well.

I can't imagine what they'd look like under a pair of ODNO 6500 lumens GE P&A bulbs!
 
#12 ·
Do you have any suggestions on how to do this with an F9tt/50k builb? I have a nice little light on my hex that uses two of the above mentioned which are not enough for plants. I sure would like to overdrive those lights...:hehe:
 
#13 ·
I'm not familiar with the bulb, actually. Do you mean an F9T6? I don't think they make an electronic ballast for a bulb that small. I wish they did, though, I have a 15g tall tank that uses that bulb.

I might try connecting one of those bulbs to this ballast, what the heck, and see what happens. I'll wear my safety goggles, haha.
 
#14 ·
its a Sylvania, Dulux 4 pin, compact florescent.... hope that helps. I think they are self balasted so I'm probly out of luck....:(
 
#15 ·
I went to the "Osram Sylvania" web site and tried to find it. The closest I can find is "Dulux S/E 4 pin". That is the only group that list an F9 bulb. According to that info it uses an electronic balast.:hehe:
 
#16 ·
OK, I read the reef forum post and by the sound of it, it seemed like you would need 4 balasts and hook them all together. But when I read this post, you say 4-F32T8 balast. Does this mean you are hooking up a balast designed to run 4 lights to one? I was thinking about doing it on a future tank, if it required multiple balasts, but if you could hook up one balast to one light and have it be more intense (even though the balast will be "bigger"), why not? Am I correct?

-Tim
 
#17 ·
On that forum on reefcentral's site, on the second page (I believe), someone tried connecting two seperate ballasts and fried the ballasts. The ballasts have circuitry to prevent feedback of some sort that prevents being able to connect more than one ballast to one bulb.

What you do is buy a ballast designed to drive more than one bulb - such as a 4-F32T8 ballast or a 2-F32T8 ballast. And that's exactly what you do - connect one ballast, designed to run several bulbs, to one bulb.

The reason they mention four ballasts on the reefburnaby post is because they are actually driving four seperate bulbs, each with their own 4-F32T8 ballast. That's a LOT of light, but that's what SPS corals need. If each F32T8 bulb being driven by its own 4-F32T8 bllast (with all four outputs connected to the one bulb) makes 6500 lumens, we're talking 26,000 lumens here! In the standard watts per gallon convention - this translates to well over 500 watts of light!

For a planted tank - you can consider each F32T8 bulb to be the equivalent of 125 watts - enough to grow most plants in a 55gallon tank. Two of these bulbs (each with their own ballast) would be enough light on even a 75 gallon to grow intense light plants.
 
#18 ·
Thanks for the reply! OK, that makes a lot of sense. Right now, I have a 2x55 PC strip and a single bulb NO flourescent strip. Could I retrofit an overdriven T-8 design to the single bulb NO flourescent strip? I have some questions first...

1. T-8, T-12?? The only difference I know is that the T-8 is smaller! I definitely want to have the GE P&A bulb, after all good I have heard about it. Is the GE bulb a T-12 or T-8, and will I need new endpins in my existing strip to fit a T-8 in it? What else will I need to do to my strip to make it acceptable? This seems confusing, but I am determined!

2. OK, in the above diagram, you have "T-8 bulb overdriven to 80 watts", but then in the last post, did you say 125 watts. I'm thinking because the lumen/watt ratio is higher so it provides as many lumens (or about as many) as 125 watts usually would?

Thanks for the help... chances are this will be a project to do over the weekend!

-Tim
 
#19 ·
Your assumption in question number 2 is exactly correct. The 4x ODNO F32T8 bulb consumes only 80 watts, but produces 6500 lumens. The standard convention of "watts per gallon" comes from a 2000 lumen, 40 watt standard F40T12 bulb. This ODNO F32T8 bulb is far more efficient, so it produces as much light as 125 watts of standard lighting (like three 40 watt tubes).

As for your first question, T12 lamps are 1 1/2" in diameter and T8 lamps are 1" in diameter. Each number in the T# convention equals 1/8".
A T8 and T12 bulb has the same pin configuration, though, so you could use T8 bulbs in the same sockets/strip lights that T12 are used. But if you want to use GE Plant & Aquarium bulbs (I love 'em!) then go on and use them. They won't be as efficient as T8 bulbs, meaning they'll need more watts to produce the same lumens, but should still produce about the same light. The ballast should just work harder.

I'm going to be testing this theory soon. I'm going to find a 4-F32T8 ballast and try various configurations with my two 40watt GE P&A bulbs. (One bulb with 2x and 4x, then Two bulbs with 2x each)
 
#20 ·
So, all I really have to do then is take out (or disconnect) the balast in my 40-watt strip, and connect the 4-F32T8 balast to it and that's it? If I was using a T12 bulb (like the GE P&A bulb), would I have to use a different balast, since the above one is used with T-8s? Thanks again, this is definitely happening this weekend.

-Tim
 
#21 ·
The 4-F32T8 ballast will work fine with your F40T12 bulb. It's just not as strong as a 4-F40T12 ballast - but I haven't been able to find an electronic ballast designed for four 40watt tubes, only magnetic. Electronic ballasts are mostly used in industrial applications, because they're efficient and quiet, with low power consumption, and F32T8 bulbs are mostly used in industrial apps because they are also more efficient as well as smaller (less packaging, waste, etc.).

The short answer is - the 4-F32T8 ballast will still make that 40watt bulb glow like crazy :)
 
#23 ·
I built one today, 2 bulbs, 2 4bulb ballasts. Now I'm searching for 48"T8s, cool white daylight. It seems they are like hens teeth! I won't give up easily tho.:hehe:
 
#24 ·
How'd it work, did it seem fine?! I'm somewhat nervous, I don't have much experience with electrics, but "you can't win if you don't play"! I am going to try it with the balasts in first, without it on the tank to make sure everything is in place. Tomorrow morning it is!

-Tim
 
#25 ·
Hey guys, this is one super setup! I'll have to be sure my scissors is sharp now to keep the plants trimmed. Thanks a bunch for the DIY idea, I love it!:bounce::angel::hehe:
 
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