Pressurized CO2...Just thought I'd share. - Page 25 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #361 of 373 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 01:39 AM
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Pressurized CO2...Just thought I'd share.

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Originally Posted by Steverino View Post
Well, I have everything assembled, connected, and ready to go. Getting the 10# cylinder filled tomorrow, and the drop checker should arrive on Monday. I just have one question: I read the "startup" post, so I know how to safely turn on the gas. What I am unsure of is how to determine the appropriate working pressure setting, and the bubble per second rate. I realize each may take some experimenting, but what's a good baseline / starting point? I'm working with a 60 gal. tank, BTW.



Feel free to redirect me to another thread if more appropriate...



Thanks again for all of the help here!


For 60 gallon which I have typically it will be between 2.5 to 4.5 bps. I am at 4. Start at the lower end and go from there watching the ph drop and your co2 glass checker. The amount you end up with is dependent upon a lot of factors like flow in tank, how you are diffusing your co2, surface aeration, etc.

Many including me will tend to turn on co2 an hour before the lights come on and turn off co2 an hour before the lights go off. What you do is check your ph right before the co2 comes on and then an hour later right when lights come on or so and see if you get the 1 point ph drop. That is what you want to shoot for. So start off at like 2.5bps and go from there. May take a few days tweeking but you will get it


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post #362 of 373 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 06:06 AM Thread Starter
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30 PSI is a good starting delivery pressure. The bubble rate will really vary; it depends on how efficient your diffusion method is.

Set some time aside over the weekend to slowly increase your CO2 injection rate. Be sure to monitor your fish/shrimp for any signs of distress.

A drop checker will aid in the tuning, but should not be too heavily relied on, since changes in colour will take a few hours to become apparent

Anthony

A Primer to Pressurized CO2 and A Primer to Planted Tanks
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post #363 of 373 (permalink) Old 03-31-2017, 11:09 AM
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Thanks clownplanted & Anthony for the help... That should get me launched...

Steve

TruVu 60, Marineland C360, DIY CO2 with Rex Grigg reactor
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post #364 of 373 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 03:38 AM
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Dear Darkblade48 and all

Amazing write up! wish that I came across here before. I used CO2 sytem with a pantball CO2 tank and regulator before. It last for 1,5 month but adjusting bubbles was very difficult. I have a 10 G tank with some plants and wanted to introduce myself to CO2 injection.



I have a 24oz tank and an adaptor that I got from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/AQUATEK-CO2-P...ntball+adapter).



I connected the adapter to a Western Medical M1-320-PG dual gauge regulator .



I used a magnetic selenoid (Baco Eng, model 2w-8) connected to a ball valve (I think this is the most problematic part) and connected to a 1/4 M NPT to a silicone tubing adapter. This was followed by the fluval bubble counter and ceramic diffuser.



I don't want to spent to much, just want to upgrade a little more. Do you guys think this set up is somehow OK? I definitely will need a needle valve but the OK ones start with $40 (are the more affordable ones which can provide accurate counting)

Any suggestions on how to improve this a little more?

Thanks
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post #365 of 373 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 01:49 AM
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Tanks again for the great write up. I am new to the forum and did go through the 25 pages. Also posted my set up still waiting foe it to be posted.

Bump: Tanks again for the great write up. I am new to the forum and did go through the 25 pages. Also posted my set up still waiting foe it to be posted.
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post #366 of 373 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 05:26 AM
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Hi all

I introduced myself into the CO2 world and want to get some suggestions. I have a 10 gallon with some plant as you can see in the picture. I used my system before and the 24oz lasted 1 month



I used my system before and the 24oz panintball tank lasted 1 month. I used a ball valve at that time and think that it was the cause.



I use an adaptor that I got from amazon (blue) and connected it to the M1-320-PG (western Medical)



This is connected to a selenoid that I also get from amazon



Then I have the bad ball-valve, the 1/4 NPT tubing adapter, fluval bubble counter and diffuser

When I installed this system, controlling the flow was difficult but I managed it to a 2-3 BPS until I started the timer for the solenoid. Turn off/on the rates are completely different.
I know I have to change the valve to needle valve any affordable suggestions? Do you think valves at home depot will do the work ?

Other question is about the solenoid (BACOeng, model 2w-8). its doing the job very well, does not heat, up to max 10kg/cm2 which is =160 psi. BUT its not grounded!

I know that a standart 10G tank may not need CO2 set up like this. Maybe Fluval mini or the 88g is OK, but I want to get used to this system for the future. I use flourish excel and mainly dont have problems with plant growth. Just started some hair grass and baby tears and want them to grow.

What do you guys think about this?

Thanks in advance

Bump: Why are the pictures like this? I have to open in another page.

How can I have the pictures directly on the page?

Thanks
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post #367 of 373 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 05:57 PM
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I know someone whom got a hospital regulator for $70 off evilbay. It is made of stainless steel and known to last forever.

Finally found out it was a Victory regulator.

Last edited by Hilde; 05-11-2017 at 05:46 PM. Reason: added text
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post #368 of 373 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevmo911 View Post
Here's a sample individually-sourced rig:

Evilbay regulator: $75 shipped.
Could you be more specific about the regulator that you got?
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post #369 of 373 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 09:35 PM
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The regulator is from Western Medica (M1-320-PG) I found a PDF brochure (page 10)(http://westernenterprises.com/wp-con...edica-2012.pdf)

Single Stage adjustable regulator with CGA-320 Nut and Nipple

FEATURES:
Chrome-plated brass with all brass high-pressure chamber
Maximum inlet pressure 3000 psi
Durable neoprene diaphragm
Internal reseating relief valve protects against over-pressurization
Sintered filter for additional safety and to extend regulator life
2" diameter gauges
Dual scale: psi and kPa
Outlets are DISS gas specific
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post #370 of 373 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 10:33 PM
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I was wanting to know what kevmo911 found on Ebay.

Bump:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
Updated a thread to include a photo and clearer instructions.
Are these pics for pressurized Co2? I am having trouble finding the pic. Link?
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post #371 of 373 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilde View Post
I was wanting to know what kevmo911 found on Ebay.

Bump:

Are these pics for pressurized Co2? I am having trouble finding the pic. Link?


Please go to the first post in thread.


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post #372 of 373 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 02:30 AM
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I set up my pressured CO2 system about a month ago, and the biggest issue I have now [and there are many] is that the high pressure gauge has never worked. I ran out of gas Saturday because the gauge did not work, and monday when I put the new tank on I paid close attention to the gauge. When I slowly opened the tank valve [yes with the low pressure screw correctly placed] the needle was pegged at the max pressure, the stop pin was left of the needle, when the gas increased the needle rotated clockwise and tried to spin past the stop peg.

Normally I assume the needle would be at the right of the pin and as the pressure rises it moves clockwise till the correct tank pressure is reached.

I mentioned this to whom I bought it from which rhymes with Green Leaf Tea and they do not answer my question. I am assuming it is defective, a new one is under 20 can and should I replace it my self?

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d
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post #373 of 373 (permalink) Old 06-07-2017, 08:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akd200 View Post
Normally I assume the needle would be at the right of the pin and as the pressure rises it moves clockwise till the correct tank pressure is reached.

I mentioned this to whom I bought it from which rhymes with Green Leaf Tea and they do not answer my question. I am assuming it is defective, a new one is under 20 can and should I replace it my self?

tanks
d
Do you have a photo of your regulator? Are you sure you are looking at the high pressure gauge and not the low pressure gauge?

Yes, the needle in the valve should be to the right of the stop pin.

If you have a replacement gauge, then yes, you can replace it yourself, though it may void your warranty.

Anthony

A Primer to Pressurized CO2 and A Primer to Planted Tanks
Eheim Pimp #362 - Eheim 2213 x2, Eheim 2028, Eheim 2217, Eheim surface skimmer and Eheim autofeeder.
Victor Pimp #33 - HPT272-125-350-4M
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