Pressurized CO2...Just thought I'd share. - Page 24 - The Planted Tank Forum
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post #346 of 356 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 03:13 PM
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Hi all,

I'm working on my first C02 setup. Been doing a lot of reading here, Barr Report, & elsewhere. Steep learning curve ...

Bought a used Air Products E12-215D regulator, and need to assemble the rest of the components. I have two questions:

1. I intend to build a Rex reactor and will therefore need a bubble counter inline ahead of that. Seems like there are lots of cheap JBJ ones out there, but the quality apparently isn't good. Do I go with one of them anyway with a good additional check valve (Swagelok or equivalent) at the regulator, or is there a better option?

2. My regulator came with an additional small valve (stamped 111C) on the output port. (see pics) Could that effectively act as my needle valve, or do I need to replace it with one of the units (Fabco, etc) talked about here?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Steve



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post #347 of 356 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Steverino View Post
My regulator came with an additional small valve (stamped 111C) on the output port. effectively act as my needle valve, or do I need to replace it with one of the units (Fabco, etc) talked about here?
Silver part 111C is just a connector. Here is cheap Fabco needle valve. Their shipping is expensive. After getting all the parts for DIY paintball Co2 system I have come to realize it would have been cheaper to buy a regulator setup such as 1 by AZOO or Co2Art

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post #348 of 356 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 05:14 PM
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Thanks for the reply & the links! On the 111C, I'm a little confused since it does have a knob so must be a valve of some sort (that being said, it may not be a needle valve, or precise enough for this purpose)

I did look at AZOO & Co2Art, and was tempted to go that way. I am hoping I can put together a unit with somewhat higher level components while still not breaking the bank. Guess we'll see...
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post #349 of 356 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 05:49 PM
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I did look at AZOO & Co2Art, and was tempted to go that way. I am hoping I can put together a unit with somewhat higher level components while still not breaking the bank. Guess we'll see...
Yeh I don't like the solenoids they have. If you know the different measuring units of connectors you may. I didn't thus had to double order some parts. For solenoid I bought an EVO-3-12 on Ebay. I just put a screw in the top. Something discussed with PlantedRich I still haven't set it up for life keeps getting in the way. I am very nervous about setting it up so I don't want to do it when I am rushed for time or half awake.

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post #350 of 356 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steverino View Post
1. I intend to build a Rex reactor and will therefore need a bubble counter inline ahead of that. Seems like there are lots of cheap JBJ ones out there, but the quality apparently isn't good. Do I go with one of them anyway with a good additional check valve (Swagelok or equivalent) at the regulator, or is there a better option?
Are you talking about an inline (e.g. in between airline tubing) or plumbed to the regulator?

You should always use a check valve (or two) regardless of what bubble counter you plan to use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steverino View Post
2. My regulator came with an additional small valve (stamped 111C) on the output port. (see pics) Could that effectively act as my needle valve, or do I need to replace it with one of the units (Fabco, etc) talked about here?
No, this is likely an on/off valve, or a flow valve. It will not be provide fine enough control for our purposes.

Anthony

A Primer to Pressurized CO2 and A Primer to Planted Tanks
Eheim Pimp #362 - Eheim 2213 x2, Eheim 2028, Eheim 2217, Eheim surface skimmer and Eheim autofeeder.
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post #351 of 356 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
Are you talking about an inline (e.g. in between airline tubing) or plumbed to the regulator?

You should always use a check valve (or two) regardless of what bubble counter you plan to use.


No, this is likely an on/off valve, or a flow valve. It will not be provide fine enough control for our purposes.
I am open to either inline or plumbed to regulator - whichever gets me a good counter If I had a choice I'd probably plumb it...

Roger the check valve(s). I had already read not to trust the JBJ counter checks. Will go separate.

Regarding the other valve, thanks for confirming my suspicions. I had a sliver of hope for some $ savings...

Thanks for the help - much appreciated!
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post #352 of 356 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
Are you talking about an inline (e.g. in between airline tubing) or plumbed to the regulator?

You should always use a check valve (or two) regardless of what bubble counter you plan to use.


No, this is likely an on/off valve, or a flow valve. It will not be provide fine enough control for our purposes.
Strange - I replied earlier, but it didn't post.
I would prefer plumbed to the reg., but am fine with inline too. Just want a decent counter.
Roger the check valve(s). I've read not to trust the JBJ built-in ones as well.
I figured the valve wouldn't work - just hoping to save a few bucks.

Thanks for your help!
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post #353 of 356 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 03:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steverino View Post
I did look at AZOO & Co2Art, and was tempted to go that way. I am hoping I can put together a unit with somewhat higher level components while still not breaking the bank. Guess we'll see...
Don't get a regulator from overseas if you can. Should anything break or malfunction, it takes a long time to get the replacement part. I decided to get a CO2Art regulator and it took almost 3 weeks to get the package. Then the gas leaked through one of the gauges on day 2. Now I have to wait for a week or so to get the new gauge. Wish I just bought from GLA in the first place.

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post #354 of 356 (permalink) Old 03-24-2017, 11:25 AM
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Thanks for the warning. I ended up getting an Air Products E12-215D off of eBay (see above), and a post body kit from diyco2regulator.com (that includes all fittings, Fabco needle, and Clippard solenoid). Rex Grigg reactor parts from Lowes. Hope to start putting things together this weekend. I'm expecting total cost, including a new 10# aluminum cylinder, to be under $300.
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post #355 of 356 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Darkblade48 View Post
The last part covers what I consider to be "luxury" items, or completely optional parts (unlike the above).

pH controller
A pH controller (such as those made by Milwaukee) will allow you to determine the pH of your aquarium water on a continual basis. By hooking up the pH controller to a solenoid (which is part of your CO2 system), you can have your pH controller inject CO2 when your pH goes above a certain set point, and have it stop injecting CO2 when your pH drops below a certain set point.

In my opinion, this is completely unnecessary. I believe too much emphasis on aquarium fish requiring the "perfect pH" has been placed in our hobby, leading beginners to believe that certain fish can only be kept at a pH of 6.4, or 7.0, etc.

Perhaps if you are keeping extremely sensitive fish, with very exacting water parameters required, would I see a need for a pH controller. The cost of the controller, probe and the calibration solutions are also quite expensive, but if cost is not an issue for you, then this may be a piece of equipment you would want to consider.
That being said Darkblade, and I vastly appreciate your posts here on this subject, I just now installed pressurized CO2 on my 70 gal tank because I got plants today. I eventually want to replicate Amazon waters is why I am using the controller, but frankly I'm a noob
to planted tanks and planted tanks. So what I do not understand is I know the plants will use the CO2, but the controller shuts off the CO2 over and below a PH level, how does the controller make sure the plants get adequate CO2 without over gassing the tank. I think I understand CO2 changes the PH, but does a controller do that at the expense of plants and fish.

Being that you stated you do not think these are necessary can you address this questions or direct this to someone who can cure my cerebral/Rectal inversion.

tanks
d
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post #356 of 356 (permalink) Old Yesterday, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by akd200 View Post
So what I do not understand is I know the plants will use the CO2, but the controller shuts off the CO2 over and below a PH level, how does the controller make sure the plants get adequate CO2 without over gassing the tank. I think I understand CO2 changes the PH, but does a controller do that at the expense of plants and fish.

d
Essentially, a 1 point drop in pH represents roughly 30 ppm of CO2, so this is what you are aiming for.

If you are set on a certain pH drop (say half a point only), then you will be injecting less CO2 into the water, and there is a possibility that plants will not have an adequate amount of CO2.

Essentially, a controller will do that at the expense of the needs of the plants.
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Anthony

A Primer to Pressurized CO2 and A Primer to Planted Tanks
Eheim Pimp #362 - Eheim 2213 x2, Eheim 2028, Eheim 2217, Eheim surface skimmer and Eheim autofeeder.
Victor Pimp #33 - HPT272-125-350-4M
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