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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-12-2004, 12:12 AM Thread Starter
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are the repti sun 2.0 and 5.0 good for a 30g cube dart vivarium? Do they cover enough of the right spectrums for the plants and the plants?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-12-2004, 01:39 AM
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The repti sun 2.0 and 5.0 are high UV lights (Think of a mild tanning bed)

Those lights should not be used alone, they are designed to be added to existing light setups. EG, with a heat lamp, or with a Warm white light, or with a full spectrum.

Plants don't like a lot of UV, and neither do amphibians. However, they do like blue and red. (Don't confuse this purple tint for the UV spectrum...)

UV lights are also lacking in the red and infra-red area, with a stronger band in blue and green and UV... If you do want to use this for NON-UV purposes, just place glass or Plexiglas between the bulb and the exposure area... and keep the distance from the target longer than 12 inches... (Most UV fades to mostly nothing after 12 inches.)

If you use this, and a strong WARM temperature light (2800K - 4200K) then you will have an ample amount of light for that setup.

Cheap example...
(UV) = Ultra Violet
(V) = Violet
(B) = Blue (Cold Light)
(C) = Cyan
(G) = Green
(Y) = Yellow
(O) = Orange
(R) = Red (Warm Light)
(M) = Magenta
(IR) = Infra-Red

UV light
####(UV)
######(V)
########(B)
#########(C)
#########(G)
#########(Y)
########(O)
####(R)
#(M)
#(IR)

Warm Fluorescent
#(UV)
#(V)
####(B)
###(C)
######(G)
#####(Y)
########(O)
######(R)
###(M)
#####(IR)

Plant only light
#(UV)
####(V)
########(B)
####(C)
##(G)
######(Y)
########(O)
#######(R)
####(M)
#(IR)

Color reference charts coming soon...

20Gal. Long (Green-House) and 55Gal. Tall (Primary Tank)
4 Fire-Belly Toads, 2 Fire-Belly Newts,
2 Giant Black Millipedes, 1 Grey Tiger Salamander
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-14-2004, 04:23 AM
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So are there any brands and medols that would be available at HQ or lowes ect that you would recomend for benefiting plants and frogs.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-14-2004, 01:18 PM
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I don't think the frogs have much a preference as far as spectrum. Focus on the plant's needs and the frogs won't know the difference. I would just use one of Home Depot's GE Plant & Aquarium Bulbs or Lowe's Sylvania Gro-Lux bulbs.

- Sam P -
plantedtanker in limbo - all tanks currently in storage
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-14-2004, 02:02 PM
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Some hardware stores stock GE tubes, with generic spectrums, simply labeled "Aquarium light", "Plant light".

Before I can start to answer that question, I need to know a few things...

Do you have a light fixture that you want to plug bulbs into already?
What type of bulb is the fixture made for?
Do you have a tank hood designed to have a light added to it?
Will you need to purchase a whole new tank hood that has a light?

If you just want my advice on which bulbs you should get, I would recommend getting...

One or two 18inch 15Watt GE common warm florescent bulbs (2800K - 4200K) {Sunrise pink color - Sunrise yellow color}

Or, get one yellow, and one white bulb... (Rise spectrum, and Noon spectrum)

The other light could be any cheap UV light, which will not actually produce any useful UV, but will provide the blue range that your plants, and frog will like. (15 - 18inches, 15 - 20W)

I would fire up the bulbs like this...
MAX
Yellow (Sunrise) 7:00AM - 5:00PM (10 hrs)
UV (Break into noon) 8:00AM - 4:00PM (8 hrs)
White (Full noon) 9:00AM - 3:00PM (6 hrs)

MIN
Yellow (Sunrise) 8:00AM - 4:00PM (8 hrs)
UV (Break into noon) 9:30AM - 2:30PM (5 hrs)
White (Full noon) 11:00AM - 1:00PM (2 hrs)

It is the duration of day-light that matters more than just the volume of light. If you have 10Watts of light on for 12 hours is better than having 100Watts of light on for 6 hours. Unbalanced day schedules cause stress on plants and animals that can induce sicknesses.

(Of all UV lights tested, at Boston University, only two lights in the consumer market produced useful and significant amounts of actual UVB. {Iguana Light 2.0 and Iguana Light 5.0}) (UV can be blocked by glass and plexiglass.)

Here are some links with more insight...

http://www.reptilesdownunder.com/rep...uvlighting.php
http://www.reptilesdownunder.com/rep...tingboston.php
http://www.reptilesdownunder.com/rep...tingtestsa.php

20Gal. Long (Green-House) and 55Gal. Tall (Primary Tank)
4 Fire-Belly Toads, 2 Fire-Belly Newts,
2 Giant Black Millipedes, 1 Grey Tiger Salamander
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 06:49 PM
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there are alot of compact florescents at Home Depot for a good price. And i was looking at a hood from one of the major brand reptile companys that sells a hood that you can screw in two differnt bulbs. So i was thinging either 2 compacts in that or one compact and a bulb for night viewing.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-19-2004, 11:09 PM
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Sounds like a great plan. If you need more light for your land plants they will let you know by turning yellowish, provided that all other elements for life are there. If you have too much light, they will get dark and start wilting. It would be real hard to provide too much light, except when it comes to the low light plants.

(Note: Ferns won't get dark, they will just wilt and turn brown/gray when light is too strong. They don't produce enough chlorophyll to get dark, thus the light green colors.)

http://www.ag.auburn.edu/aaes/commun.../sum-chaz.html

20Gal. Long (Green-House) and 55Gal. Tall (Primary Tank)
4 Fire-Belly Toads, 2 Fire-Belly Newts,
2 Giant Black Millipedes, 1 Grey Tiger Salamander
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