Amygirl11, Macrophyte ~ appreciate the kind words.
Zebrina is one of my favorite ionanthas. My original mother plant produced four pups, and one of his/her pups produced six pups. Included a picture of the pup producing pups. The only drawback with (almost all) T. ionantha is that their blooms are very short lived. That's good for producing more pups, but bad if you are trying to cross pollinate (unless you have many ionanthas flowering at the same time).
Last edited by wastewater; 02-22-2015 at 10:26 PM.
Wow that is amazing! I especially like Tillandsia Ionantha "Zebrina". Full tank shot? Is the aquarium open top or closed top?
Took a few FTS of some set-ups... still toasted from daylight savings time combined with the Duke & Carolina game last night. The enclosures & aquariums that I use (I coined 'em' with the word tillarium: an enclosure for Tillandsia to provide controlled growing conditions) could be considered closed top somewhat. I have no glass covering the tops of most set-ups (some set-ups do have a closed top with an open front). Light fixtures pretty much enclose the tops (although air can enter through the small open gaps).
..Thanks, sarahspins & shrimpo! Glad the post has sparked an interest.
All my indoor Tillies get a water soak once a week, never bother with misting. The exception to this: some very small seedlings that were recently germinated ~ they get an additional water dips twice a week, along with the weekly soak (will discontinue the extra soaks once the seedlings gain some size). I also add a diy fertilizer to my soak water with macros being heavier on the potassium side.
*NOTE:What works for one person may not work for you. There are many opinions (myths) as to what type of water to use with Tillandsia (e.g., rainwater, distilled, spring, R/O, etc.) along with copper being a "no-no". I use only dechlorinated 'Tapwater' (have been doing so for 20 years with no problems). I also use copper in my fertilizer mix, along with any copper that leaches through the water piping ~ again with no problems. Use common sense; large concentrations of heavy metals, and/or other chemicals, will kill Tillandsia (not to mention a vast array of other flora & fauna)!
Relative humidity ranges anywhere from 10-38% when lights are on, and bounces up to about 30-50% at night (I think this is due to the plants expelling water vapor during the night due to C.A.M respiration, along with the lights being off). I'm sure they don't get much moisture from the air in my set-ups. Have been very successful with the religious weekly water soaks for my set-up applications.
That's about it... as far as maintenance goes. Might have to trim a dead leaf (which is seldom), along with dividing/separating pups once in awhile.
Seedlings (you can see them attached ~ near the bottom ~ of this grey T. stricta.
Last edited by wastewater; 02-22-2015 at 11:05 PM.
Ionanthas are fairly easy Tillies... provide them good light and give them some time... nice red blushes with contrasting flowers. They are prolific puppers, so you should always be able to keep a strain going (with plenty of extras).
Last edited by wastewater; 02-22-2015 at 11:06 PM.